73' B3 340 Duster pro touring build

-
This car is going to be second to none!

Thanks for the vote of confidence...I don't know about Second to None, there's a ton of top quality builds out there. I will maybe go along with "a very Unique Duster w/lots of Custom parts".
 
Thanks for the vote of confidence...I don't know about Second to None, there's a ton of top quality builds out there. I will maybe go along with "a very Unique Duster w/lots of Custom parts".

.......not even close to factory...ish
:)
 
Im sure its just me missing it, but I think you need a bypass-hose between the thermostat and radiator, so that the water will sirculate in the engine when there is no need to run through the radiator... As it looks like now, the flow stops when the thermostat is closed?
 
Im sure its just me missing it, but I think you need a bypass-hose between the thermostat and radiator, so that the water will sirculate in the engine when there is no need to run through the radiator... As it looks like now, the flow stops when the thermostat is closed?

Daniel..you didn't miss anything I just never mentioned it in the thread but trust me in my many conversations with Meziere I have asked that same question. Here's what I have been told by two different Tech's...a bypass is not needed and that all I need to do is drill a 1/8" hole in the Thermostat flange to allow some flow.
 
Over the weekend I cut off the upper radiator hose end and welded on a -20 AN fitting and extended it 1 5/8" to get it to line up better once it's all together. I still need to repaint the Radiator and Water neck housing...I decided to paint it the same color as the engine and side stripe (Mineral Gray). I also made a offset bracket for the Lokar Firewall mounted transmission dipstick/tube so I could mount it to the head by means of a header bolt, now the engine dipstick isn't alone. Enjoy
 

Attachments

  • 002.jpg
    71.2 KB · Views: 716
  • 003.jpg
    56.2 KB · Views: 681
  • 010.jpg
    47.1 KB · Views: 691
  • 011.jpg
    49.5 KB · Views: 690
  • 007.jpg
    33.1 KB · Views: 676
  • 008.jpg
    41.5 KB · Views: 693
I needed to remove the Passenger valve cover to install the 2.25" rubber grommet for all the engine wiring and decided it would be a good time to Re-paint them with the body color scheme, so I started to strip them back down to the bare Aluminum.....more on that later.

I also started modifying my TTi X pipe to work with the altered Header Collectors. All the X Pipe slip joints will be Tig welded instead of using the supplied clamps and then get sent out to be Thermal protected to match the header finish. I'm debating installing some electric exhaust cut outs...

Finally, My painter sent me a couple pictures of the paint scheme on the Bumpers. I should have them and the hood back next weekend.
 

Attachments

  • 015.jpg
    31 KB · Views: 609
  • 014.jpg
    33.9 KB · Views: 589
  • 013.jpg
    30.7 KB · Views: 598
  • 009.jpg
    36.6 KB · Views: 596
  • 002.jpg
    42.5 KB · Views: 589
  • 003.jpg
    69.1 KB · Views: 598
I finally got the bumpers back from paint......I like the way they look, goes with the rest of the paint scheme.
 

Attachments

  • 040.jpg
    48.8 KB · Views: 401
  • 021.jpg
    57.2 KB · Views: 417
  • 016.jpg
    56.3 KB · Views: 396
  • 015.jpg
    56 KB · Views: 407
  • 010.jpg
    39.7 KB · Views: 410
  • 009.jpg
    35 KB · Views: 408
  • 008.jpg
    38.8 KB · Views: 414
  • 005.jpg
    52 KB · Views: 412
  • 001.jpg
    58.3 KB · Views: 430
The hood came back also....the bottom looks smoother and shiny this time...there are molded in Billet Aluminum reinforcements around the hood pins and rear scoop support.
 

Attachments

  • 034.jpg
    32.9 KB · Views: 433
  • 035.jpg
    54.2 KB · Views: 430
  • 029.jpg
    52.7 KB · Views: 435
  • 030.jpg
    56.8 KB · Views: 410
  • 032.jpg
    69.2 KB · Views: 426
-
Back
Top