73 Duster Brakes do not work

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Speedotann

Speedotann

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Hello everyone this is my first post here. I have a 1973 duster original 6cyl (I bought it rolling)(now 360/727, I put in). The car has front disk brakes and rear drum on a 8 3/4 rear. I noticed a valve with a knob (one inlet, dual outlets to drums) mounted on the rear axle. Can someone tell me what this is and if it came stock or if my brake system is stock. Obviously the 8 3/4 is not. I bought the car this way and I cannot seem to get my brakes working right.\

Thanks,
Brian
 
Welcome aboard. No one has responded yet, so I will give it a stab. First, a picture is worth a thousand words...
From the description given of the "valve", it sounds like the brake line "tee". Hose comes in, and the tee splits the fluid to the two sides. The knob is probably just the bolt that holds it in place.
Now, why don't your brakes work? You will need to give us some more info. Do you have any pedal or does it simply push all the way to the floor? Are any of the brakes working, front or rear? Have you checked the fluid level in the master cylinder? Have you bled the brakes? Have you replaced any parts in the brake system?
As for the 8 3/4 original to the car? Probably not.
Bring us more info and we'll try to steer you in the direction to start.
C
 
post a picture that will help us tell you what it is and welcome to FABO
 
the knob is probably the axle vent cap, youre right. We need more info like what you have tried and what proportioning valve and m/c you have
 
Sounds like an adjustable proportioning valve installed. Does it look like this?
proportioning_valve.jpg
 
It does appear (from memory) that it is the brake line "tee". I will try to get a pic as soon as this rain lets up in socal. I have bled the brakes a few times, replaced rear wheel cylinders. Basically I have to put a lot of weight into it to stop the car (I weigh 210). The pedal is hard and I have to pull it back with my toes each time I push. As I pull back I feel a kind of "pop", like the rod is catching. Hope this helps you answer it better.

Thanks again fellas,
Brian
 
housing vent bolt that goes thru brake line tee.....
 
Sounds like master cylinder. Sticking, and too big. Asmaller bore =less foot pressure needed.
 
Thanks guys! I ordered a new mast cyl + booster today (front disk model). Thanks for all of the wisdom and I will let you know how it turns out. I have a lot more issues to work out of this car so I will be posting some more.

Considering I got the car for $1200 no motor. The guy gave me a 360 block and a 727. My buddies dad had a old 360 in a shed, put some rebuilt j-heads on with a purp cam and a LD340 edelbrock manifold. I think I got a pretty good deal.

Thanks again,
Brian
 
Brian, How much of the brake system have you already replaced? You may have a collapsed hose. After replacing the m.c. please report back before spending a bunch of money. Also, bench bleed the m.c. before you install it.
C
 
clhyer said:
Brian, How much of the brake system have you already replaced? You may have a collapsed hose. After replacing the m.c. please report back before spending a bunch of money. Also, bench bleed the m.c. before you install it.
C
Click to expand...

I replaced the wheel cyl x2 and flushed the system + bled like 4 or 5 times. I ordered a mast cyl and booster from autozone. I will do the bench bleeding as you said. Thanks for the tips. I will update you soon. This weather is bad right now, so I won't be able to get to it until this weekend.

Thanks again,
Brian
 
Ok guys, I installed the New master Cyl and booster. I bled the mast cyl and bled the brakes. I could instantly feel a nice soft pedal (like my truck) but it goes to the floor. I drove it around the block and it stops a lot better and I don't have to push as hard but it still goes to the floor. The Booster has a three prong valve and I am not sure which valve the vacuum line attaches to. Any Ideas? Thanks

B
 
I don't think it matters which of the three nipples you attach the hose, I would go for the one that fits the hose the best. A couple of questions for you,
1. Where are you getting your vacuum from? Rear of carb or directly off the manifold?
2. Can you pump up the brakes and get a better pedal?
Pictures please!

Last, please give us a detailed description of how you bled the brakes.
C
 
clhyer said:
I don't think it matters which of the three nipples you attach the hose, I would go for the one that fits the hose the best. A couple of questions for you,
1. Where are you getting your vacuum from? Rear of carb or directly off the manifold?
2. Can you pump up the brakes and get a better pedal?
Pictures please!

Last, please give us a detailed description of how you bled the brakes.
C
Click to expand...

Sorry, I cannot find my camera... I just drove it again for 10 min and the brakes seem fine, they do still go kind of low but I do not know what it is supposed to feel like.

I am getting my vacuum from the Manifold. I bled the brakes following the directions in the box (and a few youtube vids). I mounted the system in the car and inserted the port plugs that were provided. Filled with fluid and started to pump the brakes about 1 inch short strokes like the directions said. After about a few mins I did not see anymore bubbles but pumped a little longer to be safe. I reconnected the lines one at a time. I then proceeded to bleed the brakes starting with the furthest. I use the one man tool that hooks to the air compressor. It is always sucking air from around the bleeder screw. I flushed a tray and a 1/2 of fluid through the rears and a one tray of fluid for the front.

Thanks,
B
 
If you have the REAR DRUMS off the car the pedal will go to the floor........

Just checking to see if you do or not!!
 
The rear brakes being out of adjustment would cause the pedal to travel further. Might want to check.
 
When you bled the brake you used "1 1/2 tray" for the rear and "1 tray" for the front. How did you measure this?
If you pump the brakes do you have more pedal?
Have you had any loss of fluid? Any leaks?

You are making progress, so bear with us as we go through all the questions before you spend more money...
C
 
You guys are awesome. No leaks. Fluid topped off. How do I know if the rear drums are out of adjustment, or not seated correctly? How do I adjust it right? Thanks

B
 
Turn the adjuster and spin the drum, until you hear it drag. Step on the brakes to center the shoes, and repeat.
 
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