73 Plymouth duster passenger door issues

[Penstarpurist]

Been working on getting our duster ready for paint. The passenger door was wiped out so we pulled it and put a straight door on, rebuilt the hinges with new pins as the old door sagged bad also. Installed the replacement door and it sags worse then the old door did, won't latch without holding up the door. Even then won't shut all the way. So in a desperate attempt to see what would make it work I slipped a 1/4" steel plate in between the bottom hinge and the door and like magic it closes almost perfect and doesn't sag. I know the shim may be an answer but not a solution. The car has been beaten and abused. I think even offroaded or jumped. Not a straight panel on it until we fixed it. Any thoughts on what to do? Should I just make a full plate shim and tack weld it in place?

 

[ScampMike]

wow - this could be a few things - can you post pics? are you sure the hinges are tight onto the body/pillar?

 

[GeorgeH]

Loosen the lower hinge at the a pillar side and slide it back a little/pick up on back edge of door. Takes a few tries to get it to hang just right, and the door should be loaded.

 

[Penstarpurist]

I'll get some pics for sure. The bolts are tight to the door and a pillar. I've moved the door hinge up, down, in and out. We had both doors(driver and passenger) the driver door took 15 minutes to reinstall and adjust to hang perfect and we did both hinges on it. The passenger door for what ever reason acts like the door before that was on, maybe even a little worse. Part of me wonders is the hinge bad or the a pillar not square anymore. The car has been hit hard on the driver side and the last guy had an inch 9f bondo all over the car. We removed all the bondo, put a stud welder to it all and went to town getting it back in shape. Welded in new quarters, trunk pan, passenger door well etc. It all looks straight shell wise.Ive hung lots of doors and done pin sets in them all. This one has me baffled and a little nervous as to what the problem may be. I'll get pics soon. Thanks so far guys. Maybe I'll rehang the fender loose on that side, it's a replacement for the very totaled one that was on it. I think it was hit hard in the a pillar as the old door couldn't open without hitting the fender lip.

 

[TrailBeast]

Well, if the hinges are new (rebuilt) and the door isn't bent then the car is.
I would space it with the plate as long as the gaps look good and not give it a second thought.
No need to weld the plate in.

 

[Penstarpurist]

Well, I think it's going to be a bent car. Hung the fender on loosely and with the fender in as far as it can go and still bolt in up front at the core support the gaps are not good compared to the driver side. Dang, it is our big block drag car. Hope it will go straight down the track.

 

[TrailBeast]

Well, I think it's going to be a bent car. Hung the fender on loosely and with the fender in as far as it can go and still bolt in up front at the core support the gaps are not good compared to the driver side. Dang, it is our big block drag car. Hope it will go straight down the track

Obviously they both need to go closer to the cabin to close up that gap, but it looks like they both need to go farther rearward. (door and fender)
I can tell by some of those lines it's going to be fun.

 

[Penstarpurist]

Yeah, I called a local body shop and they referred me to another shop that works with older cars and getting gaps right. He said get it to roll and bring it down and we can get it squared up. I think it will be money well spent to get it right frustration free.

 

[TrailBeast]

Yeah, I called a local body shop and they referred me to another shop that works with older cars and getting gaps right. He said get it to roll and bring it down and we can get it squared up. I think it will be money well spent to get it right frustration free.

That very well could be.