72ScampTramp
Scamp Tramp
should make for a good suspension with lots of room to tune
**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**
- Thread starter Mad Dart
- Start date
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bad440
everything,all the time..
i would try it as is before i went all out on it.how bad is it on the street?
Mad Dart
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Oh I will try how it is for sure. The front end needs some work though, It does not lift "top out" and transfer the weight to the rear as well as my swinger did. The initial hit bust the tires and then it ***** and gets at a roll. From a dig no way does it hook, it's like driving on ice skates.
My swinger had de arched SS springs with caltracs and Rancho 9000 in the rear along with calvert 90/10's up front and the front end was about 2" lower than this car. Was a 4spd and it would top out the front suspension in any gear. It transferred the weight very well. It also had Bias Ply's on the rear. It too was a 410 Stroker, Aluminum flywheel. It revved real quick too like the scamp does. It had a shorter tire 26" and 3.55 gears & sure grip. Scamp has 3.91's , spool, 28" tall tire and Street ET's.
View attachment IMG_1544.jpg
Louis,
I do have the caltracs, rancho rear shocks, calvert front shocks if your interested. the only thing I don't have is the SS springs.
Dan
I do have the caltracs, rancho rear shocks, calvert front shocks if your interested. the only thing I don't have is the SS springs.
Dan
Mad Dart
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PM Sent!
bad440
everything,all the time..
that swinger was sweet! mine tops out the front end real good with the slicks,the street tires it urns them a bit.
Mad Dart
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You should see what Vitamin C has done to it.... Flipping most beautiful restored car I have seen!
I will play with it a bit. Air Pressure etc. Think I am like 30PSI in the rear right now. Probably bring it down to 20PSI or so and see how it does.
Put 20-22 in the rears, heat them up REALLY good the first time and see how it launches.
Mad Dart
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Yeah this is where it is going to get interesting..... Will the next weakest link please stand up! Lol...... At this point I am ready for whatever! haha
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
Mad Dart
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It has biscuit mounts "73 K Frame" with the Red high energy bushings. Motor does not move at all, it can't the way it is designed unlike the earlier K's. I do however always run Solid MM on the other style K Frame's.
pettybludart
Well-Known Member
Louis,how about driveshaft and u-joints?They could be next.Good luck with your launches and I hope she holds together for ya.:burnout:
Mad Dart
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Driveshaft is stock with 7260 U Joints that have the grease fitting on the end cap. Axles are Moser, spool, 3.91 gears....... I have talked to several guys about this subject and it seems there is some myth about using the bigger U Joints etc.
There is also a guy on here that is using an Aluminum driveshaft off a Crown Vic. They come stock with 1350 U Joints and they only cost about $70.00 however you would need a new pinion yoke & Trans Yoke or use conversion U Joints to make it work. Either way would be way less expensive to set up than normal buying new stuff. Just another option.
younggun2.0
Well-Known Member
my dads demon went 10.70s wit a 1.45 60ft for almost 2 yrs on a stock /6 driveshaft with the small u-joints. I would just pick up a set of spicer solid body u-joints and go for it. your gonna need a shaft loop anyways.
HOTMOPR
Mr Horsepower
You would be amazed how strong those baby joints are!! Because I am cheap I ran a stock shaft up until this winter along with the 8 3/4. Ran mid 9s on the bottle and a 6.0 @ 125 boosted and tire shakin 1/8th.. lol :violent1:
Mad Dart
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Safety loop is already in. Yeah I know guys that beat the total crap out of the 7260 U Joints and they live all day long.
Did you ever break a U Joint or Driveshaft?
Mad Dart
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You guys that run your **** hard know at some point your going to break something. It is all part of the game and I am well aware that it can happen and if it will happen it will be to me...........especially with this car!! LOL
Mad Dart
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On another note, I added a PCV Valve today..... When I get on it hard and come back home the breathers are weeping a lil oil. At some point I will be Tig Welding some material to raise up the Breathers about 4" and add some lil K&N Style Breather/Filters on both valve covers. I left a breather in the Drivers Side. We will see how it acts with this configuration.
Also changed the oil and put on a Bigger Oil Filter since it fits one with the TTI's. I ended up using a 1515 Napa Gold series filter. Using Valvoline 10/30 The not street legal stuff. I ordered it at Napa. I do change my oil quite a bit so it will never ever get dirty. I also flushed the cooling system and added a mix of 50/50. Car needs to be washed and I am ready to Terrorize come Friday afternoon.
Also changed the oil and put on a Bigger Oil Filter since it fits one with the TTI's. I ended up using a 1515 Napa Gold series filter. Using Valvoline 10/30 The not street legal stuff. I ordered it at Napa. I do change my oil quite a bit so it will never ever get dirty. I also flushed the cooling system and added a mix of 50/50. Car needs to be washed and I am ready to Terrorize come Friday afternoon.
bad440
everything,all the time..
your right about stuff gonna break,nature of the beast.i've been running 20 psi in the slicks and 25 in the drag radials.the slicks bite real hard the drag radials spin a little bit but not bad.just enough to get a little fish tail on the launch.
HOTMOPR
Mr Horsepower
Never! Those joints were 13 years old
Mad Dart
Nothing to see Here!
Yeah that's what I was saying about the myth of going bigger etc. kind of like the 600hp BS small block thread I started.
airwoofer
Drivetrain limit explorer
The weak link in the U joints is the bolts, as long as you have a solid U-joint. I think there is a U-bolt conversion available to prevent the bolted retainer failure. I watched a guy break his at the line at the track and that was the first thing he said - oops I forgot to do the bolt to U bolt conversion.
On my stroker I use the stock valve covers with the big grommet in the middle, on both sides of the engine. Big breathers and big hose dropping down by the headers.
On my stroker I use the stock valve covers with the big grommet in the middle, on both sides of the engine. Big breathers and big hose dropping down by the headers.
Mad Dart
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Mine has the lil billet aluminum caps and through bolts. This was already on the car. The Yoke must have been drilled through at some point cause I know the stock ones are Threaded. I attempted to drill through one on my other car with it in the car and it was impossible. Need a Press and some seriously Hardened bits to do it.
73SwingerBuild
Well-Known Member
I installed those billet aluminum caps offered by Mancini and drilled the yoke out while it was in the car. You are dead on right about needing a drill press to do it correctly. I went through six drill bits and one of the holes is actually at an angle (which I didn't think would be that easy to do when chasing an existing hole).
After installing the caps, I don't actually recommend them. They look better on the site lol. Also, it's damn near impossible to get at the allen head retainer bolts, since they are ~3" long and hit the drive shaft when you try to remove them.
I'll be doing U-bolts on my next build for sure. and drilling out the yoke with a drill press. No more of that BS.
Mad Dart
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Dang you were determined! Think I broke 1 bit and said forget it, that material is like tool steel or even harder!
For sure they aren't the best. They actually have Lil dents in 2 sides of them from hitting the driveshaft yoke. Nothing major but they should make them a Lil shorter so this don't happen.
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