**73 Scamp Mini Pro-Street Engine Swap**

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HOTMOPR said:
Awesome Louis! I recommend looking into the leash NOS relay controller. Has the relay to work with the transbrake so the NOS isn't engaged until you let off the button. It also has a built in delay timer. Be handy if you find yourself blowing the tires away at the hit. Its quite reasonable too..
2 Stage Programmable Timer
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Thanks! Seems like an easy install.. For $40.00 more it has the bang button feature as well.
 
Mad Dart said:
Thanks! Seems like an easy install.. For $40.00 more it has the bang button feature as well.
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Ya they are really simple. They had a more simple relay board without the screen for 150$ but they discontinued it until they get caught up on other orders
 
Little update....

So... the car was for sale and I had 2 buyers ready to purchase the car. I decided to keep it after the install of the new Trans.

During the sale I was running the car and ended up popping a lip seal in the front drum. I was asking a lot from the 904 that is for sure. I did however break another MYTH. Most on here said I will SHEAR the input shaft off right off the transbrake on the bottle. Well I would say I have at least 625HP to the tires on the tune up in the car now. We even wicked it up to about a 250 shot and I came off the brake several times with no issues at all. Wheels up! haha

I was going to put a 727 in the car but decided against it with the new plans I have for the car. So I ended up getting a STAGE 3 Rossler TH 400 with pro brake. The install was fairly simple. I had to clearance the cross member at the floor pan and we made a new cross member using the factory one. Trans has an ULTRA BELL and JW Performance makes the Flywheel adapter plate. Now I can run any CHEVY Converter. Pete my chassis buddy gave me a "Secret Sauce" converter. The car would not move hardly at all at 3K RPM so I smacked the throttle to get it go go and I swear it pulled the front tires first whack. No burn out and no tire spin. Crazy.

New Shifter was installed, Mopar pattern shifter is now on the shelf. New Driveshaft was also needed. 1350 Solid U Joints and a Chromoly Trans Yoke from Strange was installed.

So...Finally I got a new K Frame built. It is Chromoly, uses Mustang 2 Brakes and spindles..... YEAH I purchased the 2" Drop Spindles. This way I can lower the car more and not loose all my suspension travel. New Wildwood brakes, upper control arms etc. O.... YES it keeps the MOPAR torsion bars! I will not ever do another coil over conversion. The Torsion bars I believe in a MOPAR works so much better for my use and it is a FRONT STEER RACK.

See pictures.

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So plans for the car after the K Frame is to build a New Gen Hemi. I have ordered 2 blocks. 1 to build and 1 for mock up.

I already have the computer and most of the HOT and Cold side parts needed to to a twin or a big single turbo.

I will be copying this power plant. Goal is 1300+HP and over 1100 ft lbs.

See article. Troy Aves’ 1967 Dart Runs 8s With a Gen III Hemi and a Big Turbocharger - Hot Rod Network

Motor Plate, mid plate, clean up firewall, rewire, Vintage Air, repaint engine bay & scoop, fix minor scratches in paint. Install PEAK dash that I have with SPEED HUT Gauges.

I changed my mind regarding the Ritter block. NEW Gen Hemi is a better path for me. Easier to build and more reliable power on tap.

I will be using the Edelbrock heads for the Gen 3 Hemi that flow 348CFM un touched. I am sure someone can get 425CFM out of them. That right there is a 800hp NA motor with the right combo. Set it on kill with some boost and the numbers I am seeking are easily attainable with this combo. E85 of course is the fuel of choice.
 
GREAT to see ya back at it!!! Can't wait for the updates Pics and VIDEO!!!! LOL
 
Glad your sticking to this one my friend, you get yours done and I'll have mine hopefully done soon and we can tear up the streets :thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
That article on Troy’s car was out of date when it was published lol. A lot has changed with it. I was over at his house a few days ago checking out his new rear setup. Unbelievably awesome. Built to handle anything. I now have the Dana that came out of that car and putting it in mine.

You know Louis, he a has a built Gen III block he’s selling which was probably the same block that was in the car when those pictures were taken. Bolt on the heads and add turbo and it’s ready. I’ve been tempted to buy it myself. I already have the Reid bellhousing, GM converter, and JW wheel as well. But my wife keeps turning into a fireball every time I mention buying it though!
 
I'm surprised you don't like the coilover front suspensions, they free up so much room for headers and stuff. Is it because you weren't getting enough front end travel?

I'm hoping that new converter works for you at the track but it doesn't sound like it's built right for your combo, if it slips to over 3000RPM's just trying to get the car to move.
 
ProSport said:
I'm surprised you don't like the coilover front suspensions, they free up so much room for headers and stuff. Is it because you weren't getting enough front end travel?

I'm hoping that new converter works for you at the track but it doesn't sound like it's built right for your combo, if it slips to over 3000RPM's just trying to get the car to move.
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When I switched to coil over, it did lose some travel from the /6 bars with flat bump stops so that’s probably what he’s after. My 60’ still dropped 3 hundredths with the coilover swap (without tuning) so I can’t complain about mine. But all the extra space and being able to drop both headers in 20 minutes is a huge benefit too. But if it’s travel you want, then the torsion bars is the way to go.
 
ProSport said:
I'm surprised you don't like the coilover front suspensions, they free up so much room for headers and stuff. Is it because you weren't getting enough front end travel?

I'm hoping that new converter works for you at the track but it doesn't sound like it's built right for your combo, if it slips to over 3000RPM's just trying to get the car to move.
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Take a car with front coil over suspension and get the front end 3 feet in the air and let off the throttle.... I bet it will bend the whole front end really bad. Torsion bars spreads the load throughout the car. Wheel stands for days no problem. .

My new K member is RACK FRONT STEER. All the steering stuff will be gone. Plenty of room for any type of header and any type of Oil Pan. I am thinking road race pan so I can get the car in the WEEDS>
 
ProSport said:
I'm surprised you don't like the coilover front suspensions, they free up so much room for headers and stuff. Is it because you weren't getting enough front end travel?

I'm hoping that new converter works for you at the track but it doesn't sound like it's built right for your combo, if it slips to over 3000RPM's just trying to get the car to move.
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This is why I do not come on here anymore. You guys talk **** without any real world information to back it up. I think I have busted just about every MYTH that has been brought up on this site. I am serious about the MYTH's. Total internet BS. AND the Converter is fine. I hang with guys that actually have real world experience and I do the same things myself.... Get out there and DO THE SHITTT is my motto. I actually do the shitt and run the Doggg snott out of my stuff. I am not a parking lot hopper.

But to answer your questions...

The car was just started.... It is just different than the other one I had. It works fine and if you want to try for a piece of it.... I am ready whenever. Bring the shittt! haha
 
younggun2.0 said:
Wish you were closer! I’d run you till I ran outta gas money! My new setup is high 9 low 10 sec combo. Be a ton of fun.

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WOW, your car looks really good. I like the wheels!

Yeah I would run ya too no problem. Would be Fun as hell.

I was talking to Pete my chassis buddy the other day. He is a NITROUS GURU big time. He wanted to bet me he can put a tune up in the car now that will bust into the high 8's after we change up the wiring so the NOS comes on when I let go of the transbrake. I am game to try it! New motor is being built so if it Passes away, no big deal.
 
Here is the wiring for the Full Throttle NOS arming with a bang button to either purge through the motor or hit the button without the full throttle switch needing to be activated. Keep in mind I have several other relays where I will pull power for the other relays etc so each wiring set up will be custom for your set up.

Oh... I also just installed a HP 950 Carb. I went through the whole carb. Replaced the gaskets, needle and seats, New Floats, V Notched rear float with Jet Extensions etc. New Bowl bolts, gaskets etc.

I just need to adjust the floats and fire the car back off. Check timing and tune the carb.
 

Attachments

  • Bang button & Full Throttle Switch Wiring.pdf
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Mad Dart said:
This is why I do not come on here anymore. You guys talk **** without any real world information to back it up. I think I have busted just about every MYTH that has been brought up on this site. I am serious about the MYTH's. Total internet BS. AND the Converter is fine. I hang with guys that actually have real world experience and I do the same things myself.... Get out there and DO THE SHITTT is my motto. I actually do the shitt and run the Doggg snott out of my stuff. I am not a parking lot hopper.

But to answer your questions...

The car was just started.... It is just different than the other one I had. It works fine and if you want to try for a piece of it.... I am ready whenever. Bring the shittt! haha
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Mad Dart I am very sorry that you took my questions the wrong way, absolutely no harm intended in any way. I have a huge stack of 9 second time slips on a 10" tire, pump gas, through the exhaust and no power adders. My current street car goes mid 10's with 3.23 gears. So yea I'll grab a lane with ya! :)
Just simply trying to help and I want a high dollar coilover front suspension so it scares me to see 2 different people install one and then want to go back to torsion bars.

There are a lot of 8 and 9 second cars in my area with converters that drive like a normal daily driver car, that's why I was concerned with the crazy amount of slip you're getting just trying to move the car. Get yourself some track data and you'll know what needs changed or doesn't need changed. Good luck with it, I've enjoyed your build.
 
Hey maddart. Off subject but i wonder waht happened to your former car. The gold dart 1970 or so I believe. You had some videos of it running. It was awesome!!!
 
ProSport said:
Mad Dart I am very sorry that you took my questions the wrong way, absolutely no harm intended in any way. I have a huge stack of 9 second time slips on a 10" tire, pump gas, through the exhaust and no power adders. My current street car goes mid 10's with 3.23 gears. So yea I'll grab a lane with ya! :)
Just simply trying to help and I want a high dollar coilover front suspension so it scares me to see 2 different people install one and then want to go back to torsion bars.

There are a lot of 8 and 9 second cars in my area with converters that drive like a normal daily driver car, that's why I was concerned with the crazy amount of slip you're getting just trying to move the car. Get yourself some track data and you'll know what needs changed or doesn't need changed. Good luck with it, I've enjoyed your build.
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No big deal. On to the next!

Thanks for the info.
 
HP-950 is installed. It was used so I rebuilt it. New gaskets. Floats, jet extensions, needle and seats, carb screws and gaskets.

The car fired right up idling cold. It has never EVER done that. It was a cold ***** with the 850 DP. The car is way more crisp with the carb as well. Today I will do a test on it.
 
QuickDart360 said:
Hey maddart. Off subject but i wonder waht happened to your former car. The gold dart 1970 or so I believe. You had some videos of it running. It was awesome!!!
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Member VitaminC bought that car. He did a full restore on it. It is beautiful. Search his name and you will find it.
 
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