73 Swinger Ratty Daily Driver Project

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Swingin73Dart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2020
Messages
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Location
Black Diamond WA
So I got tired of driving my 88 sh*tbox Camry around every day and missed driving around old muscle all the time like I used to but I don’t want all the worry of door dings or leaving something with a big $$$ paint job alone in a parking lot to get damaged or stolen if I’m not keeping an eye on it. Plus I’m a huge fan of Roadkill/Roadkill Garage, which made putting good parts on ratty cars cool. So I came across this Dart over the summer and snapped it up for 1800 with the idea of building a decent daily driver car that would still give me the satisfaction of getting to drive old American iron every day with enough muscle to make it fun and go beat on at the track if I feel like, or use as a backup if my 67 Cougar (my main bracket car) is down for repairs. It was originally a 318 2bbl/904/7.25 car and I had planned on using the speed parts that came with the car to make the 318 as good as I could on a budget but I came across a free 360 so that’s currently in the machine shop and will be going in the car. This is 100% a budget build so without cutting corners I’m trying to build this as cheaply as possible. I do all my own work so I’m saving a ton in just elbow grease and parts I have laying around or can scrounge up/buy on the cheap. My end goal is to have something that at least runs 14’s in the 1/4 mile and I can take down the freeway and on road trips without worry. Not so great when my other hot rod has 4.11 gears out back! So anyway, this is the car as I sat when I first bought it, it has some rust in the quarters and a couple small holes in the floor but surprisingly solid and straight for an (ex) vinyl top car.

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I managed to find another 73 swinger with a slant 6 as a parts car for 1000 that I got a complete black interior with a perfect dash pad from. Plus wheels, better bumpers, nice grille, and other assorted parts from.

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Since I’ve started working on the car I’ve yanked the 318 out and sold it to help pay for the 360. Out with the old smogger, in with another 40 cubes!

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After I had the engine bay cleared out I thought it was a good a time as any to strip all the suspension and the K frame off to be cleaned and painted since I bought a kit and put all new bushings in it anyway. I also shitched this car to manual discs by taking the master/booster assembly off this one and stealing the lines off the parts car since it had manual discs from the factory.

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I haven’t done anything else major to the car since I finished up the front suspension and brakes as my next big expense will be paying off the machine work on the 360 and putting that together but I’ve been doing small stuff on the cheap until then to still be making progress. I just restored the old set of Offy valve covers that came with the car and fabbed up some homemade oil baffles to help give the 360 that old school 70’s survivor look u want the car to have

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I also “repurposed” a ford air cleaner I had laying around since I already had it and it matched the covers nicely. All I needed was to knock the ford emblems off and run a program on the water jet with my own custom emblem!

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That’s about all I’ve got for now. This week I’m planning on getting rid of the factory 5/16 fuel line and installing a Carter rotary vane pump I got for free with all -6 AN line I already had from when I upgraded my Cougar to -8 a while back. Some interior pieces might find their way into the car as well. I’ll keep updating the thread as I make progress.
 
Looks great! That will be a fun driver, no doubt, and shouldn't be too hard to get into the low 14 to high 13 second range. Nice score!
Welcome to the site, and keep us posted.
 
Looks great! That will be a fun driver, no doubt, and shouldn't be too hard to get into the low 14 to high 13 second range. Nice score!
Welcome to the site, and keep us posted.

That’s what I’m hoping for. It will be a 360 .040 over with flat tops, performer intake and 600cfm vac secondary Holley with a comp HE268 cam and headers. Stock converter it’s a shift kitted 904 and a 3.21 posi 8 1/4 rear I picked up so I’m hoping for mid-low 14’s at least with sticky tires
 
Had nearly the identical combo in my '70 Dart, but with a 727 trans, an Edelbrock 750 on an Air Gap intake, and 3.23s in an 8.75, with full 3 inch TTi exhaust, she went a best of 13.82 on drag radials, 14.0 on Cooper Cobra street tires.
 
That’s what I’m hoping for. It will be a 360 .040 over with flat tops, performer intake and 600cfm vac secondary Holley with a comp HE268 cam and headers. Stock converter it’s a shift kitted 904 and a 3.21 posi 8 1/4 rear I picked up so I’m hoping for mid-low 14’s at least with sticky tires
you'll do fine - my stock 360 (stock except .427 204@050 cam) ran 13.9's with 2.45 gears, stock converter, stock exhaust manifolds. You should be deep in 13's, I am and all I added were 2.94's and headers.
 
Had nearly the identical combo in my '70 Dart, but with a 727 trans, an Edelbrock 750 on an Air Gap intake, and 3.23s in an 8.75, with full 3 inch TTi exhaust, she went a best of 13.82 on drag radials, 14.0 on Cooper Cobra street tires.

Cobras are my street tires but I’m planning on some 215/65/15 M&H tires on 15x6 steelies for track time and exhaust cutouts
 
you'll do fine - my stock 360 (stock except .427 204@050 cam) ran 13.9's with 2.45 gears, stock converter, stock exhaust manifolds. You should be deep in 13's, I am and all I added were 2.94's and headers.
you'll do fine - my stock 360 (stock except .427 204@050 cam) ran 13.9's with 2.45 gears, stock converter, stock exhaust manifolds. You should be deep in 13's, I am and all I added were 2.94's and headers.

What elevation is your track? Mine is close to sea level and my cam is .454 lift and [email protected]. I have long tubes for the car already and I’ll have a lot more gear than you.
 
Well I started on the interior yesterday. I stripped the dash and painted it black and got both door panels on. Also put on the factory remote drivers mirror I saved from my parts car to replace the crappy aftermarket non remote one my car had on it.

This interior is not by any means going to be perfect but the seats are actually pretty good and at least it’ll all be black. The headliner and sail panels in the good car weren’t all that bad except for a sag in the liner and warpage in the sails. Got them a little wet with a cloth and weighted them down next to the wood stove to dry out overnight to straighten them out a bit, hopefully it works cause either way they are getting dyed black and going back into the car haha.

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Worked some more on the interior today. The headliner and sail panels came out good enough after the dye job for the car they are going in. Mounted up the door panels and the side/rear window trim, installed the rear blower motor and dash switch/ wiring harness. It’s starting to look like a car again!

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Well I pulled an all nighter and got my new fuel system all plumbed. I already had all the -6 braided line and most of the fittings from when I updgraded my Cougar to -8. The pump and filter were free. So for the cost of some grommets, hangers, and a couple fittings (about 70-80 bucks) I’ve got a new larger fuel system plumbed into the car.

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Well I’ve been busy on the Dart the last couple days. I picked up a Hobart welder and some sheet metal from the hardware store to make some patch panels for the bad spots in the floor. The passenger side footwell was really bad.

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So I made a cardboard template to cover most of the bad area knowing I would have to make a couple extra small pieces for the rust going up on to the trans tunnel.

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Once I had the template transferred to my sheet metal and cut out I bent it into shape the best I could. DISCLAIMER: this is the first floor pan replacement I’ve ever done. I made the patch panel with a grinder, a couple of 3lb sledgehammers and an old piece of jute padding as a makeshift sandbag on the tailgate of a pickup truck. I know it isn’t the best way to do things but I’m limited on what I have to work with at the moment and metalwork is something I hardly ever do so I haven’t invested in anything special to do it.

Once I had the patch panel roughly in the shape I wanted I cut out the floor pan and ground out what was left of the spot welds.

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And after that, lots and lots of tack welding to stitch the new floor pan in place. I’m not a great welder. Especially with flux core but I’m pretty sure there aren’t many pinholes and I used undercoating along the welds to seal up anything that might be there. There was also a small area in the drivers side rear footwell that needed to be cut out and replaced.

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While I was at it I took a wire wheel to the more minor surface rust spots in the floor and put some rust treatment on them so hopefully the floors in this thing will be good for a while. All in all I’m fairly satisfied, no it’s not pretty but I’ve seen a lot worse jobs when it comes to floor pans and once the carpet is in the car ain’t nobody gonna know, haha. I’m pretty happy with no more gaping rust holes for a total of $20 for a piece of sheet metal and some time invested into it. Gotta keep to the spirit of the car! Meaning on the cheap!
 
I pulled the transmission pan off the car last night to find all this.

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There are some pretty big chunks in there that look like clutch/band material so it looks like it’s time for a rebuild. I had only planned on putting a shift kit in it originally but after seeing all that in the bottom of the pan I’d be stupid not to at least freshen the trans up and do new clutches/steels/bands/seals.
 
I have found similar stuff in the pan before and the transmission never failed.
 
Well I’ve been busy on the Dart the last couple days. I picked up a Hobart welder and some sheet metal from the hardware store to make some patch panels for the bad spots in the floor. The passenger side footwell was really bad.

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So I made a cardboard template to cover most of the bad area knowing I would have to make a couple extra small pieces for the rust going up on to the trans tunnel.

View attachment 1715462015 View attachment 1715462016

Once I had the template transferred to my sheet metal and cut out I bent it into shape the best I could. DISCLAIMER: this is the first floor pan replacement I’ve ever done. I made the patch panel with a grinder, a couple of 3lb sledgehammers and an old piece of jute padding as a makeshift sandbag on the tailgate of a pickup truck. I know it isn’t the best way to do things but I’m limited on what I have to work with at the moment and metalwork is something I hardly ever do so I haven’t invested in anything special to do it.

Once I had the patch panel roughly in the shape I wanted I cut out the floor pan and ground out what was left of the spot welds.

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And after that, lots and lots of tack welding to stitch the new floor pan in place. I’m not a great welder. Especially with flux core but I’m pretty sure there aren’t many pinholes and I used undercoating along the welds to seal up anything that might be there. There was also a small area in the drivers side rear footwell that needed to be cut out and replaced.

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While I was at it I took a wire wheel to the more minor surface rust spots in the floor and put some rust treatment on them so hopefully the floors in this thing will be good for a while. All in all I’m fairly satisfied, no it’s not pretty but I’ve seen a lot worse jobs when it comes to floor pans and once the carpet is in the car ain’t nobody gonna know, haha. I’m pretty happy with no more gaping rust holes for a total of $20 for a piece of sheet metal and some time invested into it. Gotta keep to the spirit of the car! Meaning on the cheap!

The panel looks good! I've definitely seen worse replacements.

One important thing- did you spot weld the floor pan replacement back to the crossmember and frame rail? Can't really tell in the picture. It's very important that the floor is spot welded to the crossmember and frame, as the floor is the "top of the box" and therefore a significant part of the structural support.
 
Well it’s been a little while since I last posted. I had been slowly plugging away on the interior and been busy helping another buddy with a project car of his, but the last few days have been a big push to get the inside all finished up and I’m fairly pleased with the results. Actually having a complete decent shape black interior totally changed the car in my opinion.

Since this is gonna be a daily driver I wanted a more modern radio with FM capability and that I would be able to plug my iPod into. I found a radio from retro sound that was a “universal” fit and took a chance on it for $180. Pretty big investment for a budget car but a sound system is something I really don’t mind spending some dough on. It took some trial and error fitting it into the dash behind the stock bezel without cutting the steel structure or the bezel itself but I’m pretty satisfied with the job I did. That coupled with a $25 set of pioneer 6 1/2” speakers in the kick panels and a free 6x9 in the package tray doesn’t sound that bad!

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You can get an idea of the install here in this picture, I even reused the factory knobs for that stealthy look. Some of you with a keen eye might be looking at the gauge cluster and going “that doesn’t look factory!” Well I decided to spruce mine up a bit. I already had to modify it slightly to fit the oil pressure gauge since I found a small 1 1/2” diameter gauge. A little clearancing in the steel structure behind the cluster and opening up the hole in the face was all that was needed, and I hate drilling holes in the underside of dashes for aftermarket gauges. So a little black wrinkle paint and yes, chrome spray paint and I think it gives the dash a decidedly more muscle car vibe. Here’s a before shot.

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And after.

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Amazing what a little paint, elbow grease and imagination will do. I took the day off from anything major on the dart today, I’ve been neglecting my other hot rod and this is the last nice day we are supposed to have for a bit so I decided to clean up my 67 Cougar and take it out for a ride. I know it’s not a mopar but hey, we all like showing off our cars here and I need to prove I don’t just own ratty cars, haha.

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Hopefully I’ll be posting here again soon. My 360 should be close to being done in the machine shop and ready to assemble. All I need is that and to rebuild my tranny and diff and this thing is on the road. I can see light at the end of the tunnel!
 
Fine looking 67 Cat! Always liked those cars, somehow I've managed to never acquire one.

Ive had mine for going on 6 years now. It’s the first real muscle car I’ve owned and the car that gave me the drag racing bug. I bought it as a bone stock 289 2bbl car and now it’s got a rowdy 357 Cleveland and does low 12’s in the 1/4 mile.

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Next to its ugly little brother the dart.

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Friend of mine has a dozen or more, a couple of them race cars, one runs low 9's another runs low 10's. Both big block Ford powered.
 
Friend of mine has a dozen or more, a couple of them race cars, one runs low 9's another runs low 10's. Both big block Ford powered.

Awesome! I race with 2 brothers that both have 69 cougars, kinda how we got to know each other actually. Both are strictly race but not to the point of unable to be taken back to street trim. I’m not there yet but 2-3 years ago I was running low 14’s. But a couple torque converters, cams, heads and gears later I’m doing low 12’s so I’m catching em! It’s always cool to see the only 3 cougars at the track all pitted next to each other.

The dart is for sure gonna see some test n tunes this season and I’m planning on it being my backup bracket car if anything goes wrong with the cougar like last year when I had transmission trouble keeping me out of the points chase. But it’s coming into the 2020 season with a fresh tranny and a dyno tune so I got my fingers crossed!
 
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