74 Duster

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Duster will be getting a new set of Addco anti-sway bars. 1 1/8 front and 3/4 rear. 74 Duster with a slant motor came with no sway bars.

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Addco bars installed

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So when do we get to see her maiden flight?

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I've had a complete upholstery set on order for about a month now. The front seat ( bench ) has been rebuilt and everything else is ready for covering. As soon as I can get the seats covered and installed, I can put the rest of the car together ( doors, front fenders, hood, grill, etc. ) All have been stripped, straightened, painted and ready to go on. All the wiring is done with "Painless" ( not) wiring system. HVAC system has all been rebuilt, tested and ready to go. Factory A/C system will freeze your arss right on out on there. Only things I am missing to complete the interior is a radio and the right side "A" pillar molding. I am anxious to get this project off my plate. Been about a year since I purchased it from the local bone yard. Only unknowns are the engine and trans, although they seem to work fine pulling the car in and out of the garage. :lol: .

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John, your car is looking good. I too know the trials and tribulations of the (Painless) wiring kits. After a call or two to the tech line of Painless. My four speed has the reverse light low on the dash, driver's side. I heard "we do not support that option" a time or two. I believe that there was a wiring revision after I bought my kit. Anyway, we make due, overall the kits are pretty good. For brake stuff, I recommend Dr. Diff. Good stuff, fair price. I have his 15/16" bore master cylinder, stainless brake lines, and a few other goodies.
 
Thanks for the tip on the brake stuff. I have used him before on some diff parts and yes, easy to work with and fair prices. He pops up on other Mopar sites also. My 74 is an all drum brake car and it will stay that way for now. Brake fluid looked like mud, plus I found several aluminum foil pieces from brake fluid can seals floating around in the master reservoir, so I replaced the master, wheel cyl's, and completely flushed the system. Also replaced the brake shoe hardware and shoes. Brake lines and all else looked ok.
When I rewired mine, I dumped off all of the seat belt interlock system ( 1974 car ) - a nightmare all by itself. I still don't have my back up lights working properly, but could be a bad trans switch. On my to do list. When I bought my wiring kit, I also bought their "PowerBraid" wire wrap kit. Nice stuff.
I'm sure my little slant motor will be a gutless wonder, but with the addition of front and rear sway bars, the car should at least handle half way decent. John
 
Interior is in and done - except for the radio. Remember, this was a junk yard purchase from the Phoenix Az area. What wasn't missing out of the interior was virtually fried from the Az heat. I have to thank FABO and all it's members that helped me on this project with parts and A body tech info. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

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Coming down the home stretch with my Junkyard Duster build. Still looking for a front bumper ( might end up going glass ). One year and one month since I pulled it from the bone yard. Again I have to thank FABO and the many people on this site that helped me along with parts and info.:thankyou: My tired little slant motor is going to need some help down the road. Living at 5000 ft above sea level with the A/C on leaves little to propel the Duster in the forward direction. :steering:

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Finally got it to the point where it is a daily driver. My little slant motor is pretty weak and needs rebuilding and I have a water leak from the cowl plenum, but all else works ok ( including the A/C ). The front and rear Addco bars really helped in handling. Stays nice and flat around corners.

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Finally got it to the point where it is a daily driver. My little slant motor is pretty weak and needs rebuilding and I have a water leak from the cowl plenum, but all else works ok ( including the A/C ). The front and rear Addco bars really helped in handling. Stays nice and flat around corners.

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Do a leak down check, it may be as simple as the valves not sealing.
 
Finally made some heat today. Been a long pull - going from a /6 to a 318 Magnum motor. I will tell you this is no simple bolt in job - part due to implanting a Magnum small block as apposed to a LA motor. I went to a 727 verses a 904 in the process, which also didn't help ( modify shifter linkage, shorten driveshaft ). Other areas that made this switch difficult included headers ( UGH!!), non-electronics, v-belt verses serpentine, radial A/C compressor, cooling system. Got some help from several FABO members and articles on this site - TG! I'm no expert, but I my be able to help anyone contemplating this switch. "Just beam me up".

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Actually it's a GM alternator ( probably a 10SI) that someone transplanted on the /6 motor. Worked great and I wanted to use it on the Magnum transplant, especially since my new rewiring of the car included that alternator, so I didn't have to screw around with the wiring in that area. Mounted similar to a Mopar square back alternator except for the adjuster bracket which I had to fab up.
 
Make sure your wire gauge is compatible to the alternator's output of amps. Since this is an unknown from the PO. There are kits available to make the 10si and 12si output much higher. Don't want to cook any of that new wiring.
 
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