'74 Gold Duster- info needed

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RCrawler

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My brother in law has a '74 Gold Duster, 318 thats been sitting for about10 years. It was given to him by his mother, who I believe bought the car new. He died recently and I'm trying to get this one (and a few other classic cars) running again for my sister.

He had installed a rebuilt carb on it at some point, but none of the vacuum hoses were connected. Also has a new fuel pump, but doesn't seem to be getting fuel to it.

I'm looking for a vacuum diagram and some tune up specs.

Appreciate any help.

Jason
 
fuel tank will probably need cleaned and the fuel lines replaced or at least blown out

good luck

there should be a diagram under the hood as to where the vacumn lines go
 
There is no emissions/vacuum sticker underhood.

I'm hoping that the hoses at the fuel tank are just rotted or plugged, causing my fuel delivery issues.

Jason
 
Sitting that long you'll need to go through the fuel and brake systems from front to back. Get a factory service manual for that year/model. They're available on paper and cd.
 
Brakes still work good. I drove it home with a gas can under the hood.

Dropped the fuel tank down far enough to get the sender out tonight. It is a gooey varnish mess and the pickup screen was completely plugged. Fuel lines from tank to pump are clear. Good news. :thumbup:

I don't have a trunk key and from what I can tell, I need to get into it to disconnect the fill hose to get the tank out.

Any recommendation for a good NOS or repro parts source for this car?

Jason
 
You should just be able to pull the fuel fill tube out of the tank. Its only in there via a tight seal.
 
RCrawler said:
Brakes still work good. I drove it home with a gas can under the hood.

Dropped the fuel tank down far enough to get the sender out tonight. It is a gooey varnish mess and the pickup screen was completely plugged. Fuel lines from tank to pump are clear. Good news. :thumbup:

I don't have a trunk key and from what I can tell, I need to get into it to disconnect the fill hose to get the tank out.

Any recommendation for a good NOS or repro parts source for this car?

Jason
Click to expand...
There's a bunch of suppliers on E-bay that carry tanks, senders, grommets, etc. You can remove the back seat and go through the opening into the trunk to release the lid. I use a ratchet with about 4 feet of extensions on it and a 1/2" socket to unbolt the latch. That assumes there's not a ton of junk in the trunk to get in the way! You can then unbolt the lock cylinder out of the rear panel and use a screw driver to release the lid until you get a key made. If there is absolutely no way to get to the latch, just drill out the lock cylinder and get a new one. They're fairly cheap.
 
cudamark said:
There's a bunch of suppliers on E-bay that carry tanks, senders, grommets, etc. You can remove the back seat and go through the opening into the trunk to release the lid. I use a ratchet with about 4 feet of extensions on it and a 1/2" socket to unbolt the latch. That assumes there's not a ton of junk in the trunk to get in the way! You can then unbolt the lock cylinder out of the rear panel and use a screw driver to release the lid until you get a key made. If there is absolutely no way to get to the latch, just drill out the lock cylinder and get a new one. They're fairly cheap.
Click to expand...

by all means pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeezz do not use a flat head screw driver to remove the lock.Unless you want to end up replacing the tail light panel.:sad3:
 
Thanks for all the info. I got the tank out (thanks Valiant 100) and it is a bit rusty. Not so bad that I'm contemplating running a couple of inline filters and just driving it for a while.

Waiting for her to decide whether she wants to put any money into it to get it going again.

Thanks again,
Jason
 
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