'74 Scamp A904 issues

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69 Dart Guy

69 Dart Guy

This is the one for me y'all !!
FABO Gold Member
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Hello fellas/ladies, to whomever may read this thread, thank you for the time, I know personally how precious it is, the one thing we cannot get back, so thanks for spending some it here and possibly even helping out an honest fella.
I recently pulled the a/t from my Scamp and I was looking for opinions on whether or not I should just change a seal and run it for a bit, or go through it with a kit? I'm going to upgrade soon, V8/727), but I need it running cause it's literally my daily driver. Selling the 'ol F100 that's currently my daily driver. Anyways, the seal at the shift linkage was leaking like crazy whenever I test drove the Scamp and I ended up having to put a couple quarts in it just to give it a good drive after bringing the car home. It felt good once I put fluid in it, shifted strong. I'm gonna be reading a bunch of threads but in the meantime can anyone tell me what this seal p# is? (Pic # 1&2). I already got a wrong one that I ordered, looks like I got a speedometer shaft seal, (last pic). Gotta get the right one none the less, and, are there any tips/tricks for changing it? I don't have all the best tools and I'm not a "transmission guy". I'll throw some pics of the linkage ready for seal removal. Any tricks/tips will be received very kindly. Also, see pic of inside the tranny, is that damage or something normal? (Pic # 3&4) and the shaft wear in the pics 5&6. I can hear "clanking around" when I shake the torque converter back and forth, is this normal?

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I see, after removing the valve body, that it's not so bad..
I also see that my question above about the possible worn piece inside there is just a brake or something, normal I suppose? Moving on with seal changes... thanks for everything so far y'all...
 
The thing that causes recurring problems is re-installing bad parts. The bad part in this case could be the shift shaft itself. I check every one for scoring caused by grit embedded into the seal. You can get a taller seal if needed. At this point, I'd check the end play by pulling in and out on the input shaft. I know lots of readers are shaking their heads, saying you got the hard part done, now crack that bad boy open and just replace what's necessary; (going out soon). They usually have wear in the front drum (direct drum or 3rd gear drum, or reverse/high drum) lots of names. The next one back is the forward drum; even tho it's not in the most forward part of the trans... Any wear inside these two drums will doom your trans soon, so it's worth it to pop the pump and check the clutch surfaces in these two drums...also the band condition, but it will probably be fine..
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
The thing that causes recurring problems is re-installing bad parts. The bad part in this case could be the shift shaft itself. I check every one for scoring caused by grit embedded into the seal. You can get a taller seal if needed. At this point, I'd check the end play by pulling in and out on the input shaft. I know lots of readers are shaking their heads, saying you got the hard part done, now crack that bad boy open and just replace what's necessary; (going out soon). They usually have wear in the front drum (direct drum or 3rd gear drum, or reverse/high drum) lots of names. The next one back is the forward drum; even tho it's not in the most forward part of the trans... Any wear inside these two drums will doom your trans soon, so it's worth it to pop the pump and check the clutch surfaces in these two drums...also the band condition, but it will probably be fine..
Click to expand...
Again, excellent advice, my plan for tomorrow is just this, got it benched already and a little further inspection would only be to my benefit. I wanna drive it a bit while I build up a package performance upgrade. Thanks for the advice, it may very well keep me on the road just a little longer.
 
PScamp74 said:
I see, after removing the valve body, that it's not so bad..
I also see that my question above about the possible worn piece inside there is just a brake or something, normal I suppose? Moving on with seal changes... thanks for everything so far y'all...
Click to expand...
I see no abnormal wear in the pictures. The two areas I think you are referring to, circled in blue below, are not wear or damage, but just rough machining from manufacturing. Those spots do not have anything rubbing on them or wearing against them.
LoRev Band.JPG
Stator support.JPG
 
CudaFactHackJob said:
The thing that causes recurring problems is re-installing bad parts. The bad part in this case could be the shift shaft itself. I check every one for scoring caused by grit embedded into the seal. You can get a taller seal if needed. At this point, I'd check the end play by pulling in and out on the input shaft. I know lots of readers are shaking their heads, saying you got the hard part done, now crack that bad boy open and just replace what's necessary; (going out soon). They usually have wear in the front drum (direct drum or 3rd gear drum, or reverse/high drum) lots of names. The next one back is the forward drum; even tho it's not in the most forward part of the trans... Any wear inside these two drums will doom your trans soon, so it's worth it to pop the pump and check the clutch surfaces in these two drums...also the band condition, but it will probably be fine..
Click to expand...
Shift shaft is not in the best shape for sure, especially for a "sealing" surface. Not surprised I'm changing this seal. It seems to me like some original coating is gone and I'm not sure if it will "dress up" to my own satisfaction, But I'll try, can't hurt it, maybe it'll polish up for a good sealing area.

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If either one of those shafts have grooves worn from grit in either seal; you must either replace them or use a "heavy duty" seal for the shift shaft. The kd shaft seal can be flipped to ride in an unworn section.
 
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