76 318 Duster, 998 trans?

[ceekay]

D32 trans code (hamtramck doesn't show anything for that code on a '76 Duster)....

Problems: Hard clunky shift into reverse (resulting in entire car shaking, and also will often kill it if the brakes are locked or the p-brake is on) with other gears being stiff, but not what I'd consider a hard shift; Whine in 1st; no power, fairly sloppy when applying power, etc; Can stand on the brakes for days and not bust the tires loose. Could be the result of a very tired engine, but I'm thinking if I helped the trans out a bit, it would probably thank me for it...

First things first, I wanted to drop the pan and try a flush, or at the very least get some fresh ATF in it... Anybody know the capacity of the 998 (or whatever the hell D32 code is) for ATF?

Also, what should I look at for pumpkin goop? I was thinking I might want to put new diff oil in, but not sure how much to get or what is recommended for a hot climate such as El Paso in the summertime... Suggestions?


Thanks,
- CK

 

[70aarcuda]

904= /6
998=318
999=360

if you drop the pan and change the filter...adjust the rear band while you are in there...

dump 4 quarts of atf....start in neutral...and check and add more fluid as needed...

 

[TrailBeast]

Most likely the hard clunky shifts are due to mounts, idle speed, ujoints or possible band adjustments.
Servicing the trans is not going to give you one bit more power as they either engage or don't.
A converter problem can cause some problems but they too usually work or don't.
A higher stall converter might help, but the cost is more than the results are worth on a stock 318.

 

[Bad Sport]

Most likely the hard clunky shifts are due to mounts, idle speed, ujoints or possible band adjustments.

Or the notorious 7 1/4 rearend clunk. I have had many a car clunk when going into reverse, most times it was the rear.

 

[ceekay]

904= /6
998=318
999=360

if you drop the pan and change the filter...adjust the rear band while you are in there...

dump 4 quarts of atf....start in neutral...and check and add more fluid as needed...

^ Thanks.

Also, any info on adjusting a band? I've actually never played with a transmission, so I don't know f-all about what's going on in there, aside from gears meshing up to make it go forward/back...

I'm tending to agree with Bad Sport on the clunk; it seems the clunk feels like it's in the driveshaft or further back, as well as a clunk feeling like it's in the axle when she upshifts after acceleration (accelerate, pull foot off pedal, upshift, -clunk!-)... Any idea on how to fix or at least alleviate this problem so that it doesn't feel like my engine is going to twist right outta the bay the next time R grabs? :S

As for the acceleration: She seems to not want to drop gears properly when I slam the gas down during a cruise. It is acting like my Dakota was a billion years ago, and the shop back then told me I needed a new kick-down bar... Where exactly is this part, and is it easy to replace/temp-repair-for-diagnostic-purposes?

Anyone around El Paso want to donate a good (slightly shorter) rear end to a broke Private in need?


- CK

 

[TrailBeast]

Better chk those ujoints and pinion yoke on the rear end before you decide much.
The band adjustment procedure can be looked up on Google, or Youtube.

Like this,

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hoIH8ebXNZY"]904 Torqueflite Rear Band Adjustment - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6562c-8pBU"]904 Torqueflite Front Band Adjustment - YouTube[/ame]

 

[ceekay]

Will be checking the u joints and rear end out before playing with the transmission, will be either Thursday or this next weekend... It was far too sandstormy this weekend to be popping things that don't like sand open.

As for the bands, what exactly does that accomplish?

A small update: After knocking the idle down about 2000rpms (she idled HIGH) and adjusting those funny spring-loaded screws on the front of the carb, she ran a LOT smoother and the clunk is only noticeable now when it upshifts without acceleration... However, I noticed last night that it just did not want to go into second until the RPM's got up quite a ways further than usual... Third sort of acted the same way, but nowhere near as bad. I could tell it didn't want to go into third where it usually does (having only a working fuel gauge, your ear and foot become the most telling pieces of diagnostic equipment), but it wasn't like second where I had to goose it a bit just to get the r's up enough for her to want second... She has never done that before... o.O


Thanks for the info!
- CK