76 Dart no lights

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NorthernMainer

NorthernMainer

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Hey folks, so I've been fixing a few electrical gremlins in my 76 Dart. I'm down to my last two. No power to the radio which isn't so much a big deal, but I also have no power to all of my lights. I tested the connection at the firewall, and there is no power coming out.

I printed out a wiring diagram for the car, and studying that, I'm thinking it is either the ignition switch, headlight switch, or the "printed circuit connector". I have blinkers, and 4 ways, but that's it.

None of my gauges work either as far as I know.

A few questions.

1. If the ignition switch is bad, will that cause the lights not to work? I don't even have brake lights, or dash lights.

2. Where is this "printed circuit connector"? and is there anywhere you can buy them new?

3. Could just the headlight switch stop all the lights on the car from working?
 
No lights, as in no park lamps no dash no hi no low ? If its just headlights, check dimmer.
If it is everything, check headlamp switch. No power, check fusible links.
 
Tooljunkie said:
No lights, as in no park lamps no dash no hi no low ? If its just headlights, check dimmer.
If it is everything, check headlamp switch. No power, check fusible links.
Click to expand...

I have nothing aside from my blinkers, and flashers. If its the fusible links, can I take them out, and install regular fuses in place of them? I'm also not sure on how to test them, but google is our friend.
 
Theres wires on driver side fenderwell. Or firewall. Usually connected to starter relay. A gentle tug will tell you if a link is blown. Wire will stretch.
Fuse link wire can be purchased at parts stores, just need to know wire gauge size.
 
NorthernMainer said:
Hey folks, so I've been fixing a few electrical gremlins in my 76 Dart. I'm down to my last two. No power to the radio which isn't so much a big deal, but I also have no power to all of my lights. I tested the connection at the firewall, and there is no power coming out.

I printed out a wiring diagram for the car, and studying that, I'm thinking it is either the ignition switch, headlight switch, or the "printed circuit connector". I have blinkers, and 4 ways, but that's it.

None of my gauges work either as far as I know.

A few questions.

1. If the ignition switch is bad, will that cause the lights not to work? I don't even have brake lights, or dash lights.

2. Where is this "printed circuit connector"? and is there anywhere you can buy them new?

3. Could just the headlight switch stop all the lights on the car from working?
Click to expand...

I would start at the dimmer switch and see if I had power to it.
If power there but not out of it you know it's the dimmer switch.
If it does have power to it with your headlight switch on, then the problem is from there out (like the bulkhead connector) and not the headlight switch.
No power to the dimmer means headlight switch or the supply to it.

Dimmer has nothing to do wit the tail lights, brake or front markers (but the light switch does) control tail and markers.
Light switch has nothing to do with brakelights.
Connector on the floor drivers side is tail and brake and turn lights.


Questions:
1. No
2. On the back of the cluster (maybe used or replace the entire connection point like 67Dart273 (Del) did.
3. The switch could only interfere with parking tail, and markers. (not brake lights)
 
NorthernMainer said:
........... no power to all of my lights.
Click to expand...

"Time" for some "understanding" LOL

Start by going to MyMopar.com and download a free service manual the closest you can get for your car. Some years over there you must sub Dodge for Plymouth and vise versa. Also download the aftermarket wiring diagrams there. These are somewhat easier to read, sometimes, but are NOT always correct/ complete

NOW...........

1....The ignition switch has NOTHING to do with ANY lights except the oil and brake warning lamps

2....The light switch has TWO separate power sources, look at the diagram.

B1.......is batt for ONLY the headlights and comes from the big splice in the black ammeter wire up under the dash. It is rare, but these can fail

B2......receives power from the TAIL fuse and provides power to the tail, park, and dash circuit. The dash lamps have a separate fuse that comes AFTER the dash dimmer control and feeds off then to the cluster lamps.

PLEASE READ this article which has a simplified diagram of main power distro:

Catalog


Follow along below on the simplified power distro:

This is the "functional path," not electron flow. Power from battery goes through the fuse link and through the bulkhead connector on the large RED to the AMMETER THIS IS HOT AT ALL TIMES AND IS NOT FUSE PROTECTED EXCEPT THE FUSE LINK, which is "damn poor" protection

From the AMMETER out on the BLACK ammeter lead a "few inches" to the WELDED SPLICE. This branches off and feeds (depending on year/ model)

HEADLIGHT SWITCH
IGNITION SWITCH
FUSE PANEL HOT BUSS
and maybe something else on some years
amp-ga18.jpg


HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT

Start by downloading the manual. Find the fuse panel layout in the electrical section (8). Check for power on the tail circuit fuse which should be hot at all times. Not all fuses are hot unless the ignition switch is on.

Turn the switch on to "head" and access the floor dimmer switch. One terminal should be hot, and the other two should "switch" from power to no power as you cycle the switch.

DOES THE BRIGHT INDICATOR on the dash work?
 
Last edited:
Tooljunkie said:
Theres wires on driver side fenderwell. Or firewall. Usually connected to starter relay. A gentle tug will tell you if a link is blown. Wire will stretch.
Fuse link wire can be purchased at parts stores, just need to know wire gauge size.
Click to expand...

There is only 3 of them under the hood that I can see
67Dart273 said:
"Time" for some "understanding" LOL

Start by going to MyMopar.com and download a free service manual the closest you can get for your car. Some years over there you must sub Dodge for Plymouth and vise versa. Also download the aftermarket wiring diagrams there. These are somewhat easier to read, sometimes, but are NOT always correct/ complete

NOW...........

1....The ignition switch has NOTHING to do with ANY lights except the oil and brake warning lamps

2....The light switch has TWO separate power sources, look at the diagram.

B1.......is batt for ONLY the headlights and comes from the big splice in the black ammeter wire up under the dash. It is rare, but these can fail

B2......receives power from the TAIL fuse and provides power to the tail, park, and dash circuit. The dash lamps have a separate fuse that comes AFTER the dash dimmer control and feeds off then to the cluster lamps.

PLEASE READ this article which has a simplified diagram of main power distro:

Catalog


Follow along below on the simplified power distro:

This is the "functional path," not electron flow. Power from battery goes through the fuse link and through the bulkhead connector on the large RED to the AMMETER THIS IS HOT AT ALL TIMES AND IS NOT FUSE PROTECTED EXCEPT THE FUSE LINK, which is "damn poor" protection

From the AMMETER out on the BLACK ammeter lead a "few inches" to the WELDED SPLICE. This branches off and feeds (depending on year/ model)

HEADLIGHT SWITCH
IGNITION SWITCH
FUSE PANEL HOT BUSS
and maybe something else on some years
View attachment 1715091287

HOW TO TROUBLESHOOT

Start by downloading the manual. Find the fuse panel layout in the electrical section (8). Check for power on the tail circuit fuse which should be hot at all times. Not all fuses are hot unless the ignition switch is on.

Turn the switch on to "head" and access the floor dimmer switch. One terminal should be hot, and the other two should "switch" from power to no power as you cycle the switch.

DOES THE BRIGHT INDICATOR on the dash work?
Click to expand...

I'm going to buy a new dimmer switch today, the one in the car is froze. I will check for power at the "welded" terminal, and at the dimmer. I have the wiring diagram downloaded, I've been studying it for a few days now.
 
Don't START at the welded splice, you have to tear the cluster out. There are several other points you check FIRST

Very first is the TAIL fuse as I mentioned earlier. Both sides of that fuse should be hot

If that is dead, on BOTH ends find out if other "hot buss" items work.

You say your hazard flashers work? They are powered by the hot buss. This means the welded splice IS furnishing power to the fuse panel

Headlights. Start at the dimmer. If no power there, got up and pull the light switch out so you can access it. Know how to get the knob out? Reach up underneath, (disconnect battery ground) pull the siwtch out, and find/ feel and push the release button. Shaft and knob will come out

Like this:

WiringLiteSwBack2.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
Don't START at the welded splice, you have to tear the cluster out. There are several other points you check FIRST

Very first is the TAIL fuse as I mentioned earlier. Both sides of that fuse should be hot

If that is dead, on BOTH ends find out if other "hot buss" items work.

You say your hazard flashers work? They are powered by the hot buss. This means the welded splice IS furnishing power to the fuse panel

Headlights. Start at the dimmer. If no power there, got up and pull the light switch out so you can access it. Know how to get the knob out? Reach up underneath, (disconnect battery ground) pull the siwtch out, and find/ feel and push the release button. Shaft and knob will come out

Like this:

View attachment 1715091395
Click to expand...

I may have found the issue. It appears this is the wire from the alternator, it's broken, I pulled on the wire very lightly and it pulled right apart.

1505402252670179048957.jpg
 
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