76 duster gauges not working

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chargers777

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Which color wire is the power wire going in to the circle connector on the gauge cluster ?Which fuse powers it? No fuses blown and I grounded the fuel sending unit wire and the gas gauge doesn't move.
 
I have a poor home made copy, and the 76 printed manual I had HAD is gone after the house fire. You need to scare up a legit copy of a factory service manual for your car, either digital or paper. the wiring diagrams are difficult

Here at index 51 or 51 B or C, power comes to the IVR on the PC board trace to the harness connector C1-10, from wire G5-20DBL (Wire no. G5, 20 gauge, Dark BLue)

Shows that wire at C1-24 maybe fuse 5?

PCboard76.jpg


76fuse.jpg
 
Thanks. Not my car but still may have to buy one . Trying to fix it for my brother in law.
 
67Dart273 said:
I have a poor home made copy, and the 76 printed manual I had HAD is gone after the house fire. You need to scare up a legit copy of a factory service manual for your car, either digital or paper. the wiring diagrams are difficult

Here at index 51 or 51 B or C, power comes to the IVR on the PC board trace to the harness connector C1-10, from wire G5-20DBL (Wire no. G5, 20 gauge, Dark BLue)

Shows that wire at C1-24 maybe fuse 5?

View attachment 1716323211

View attachment 1716323212
Click to expand...
Thank you for your help.
 
Ok. Number 5 had no power. I put power to it and the gauges started working. However shortly after that they quit working but still have power at the fuse box. What should I check now?
 
Dana answered in your other thread. Seat belt stuff.
 
Changed the voltage limiter and the gauges started working. Started the car backed it out of the garage and the gauges quit working. Got power at the fuse.
 
There can be one or more of several issues.

"Changed the voltage limiter." Where did you get it and is it an original type? I would get a solid state one. RTE is one outfit

The gauge studs can be loose/ corroded and not make contact with the pc board. "Work" the nuts loose/ tight a few times

The contact fingers for the IVR may not make good contact with the PC board. Solder jumpers across the contact fingers to the PC board traces

The harness connector pins on the board may be loose/ corroded. Clean them up and solder them. Get your self some liquid or paste ELECTRICAL (electronic) soldering flux, NOT the stuff for plumbing, and some electrical solder
The PC board may not be grounding, which, originally, was through the cluster mounting screws. Find a common ground point on the board (follow grounding traces on instrument lamps to a mounting screw) and add a grounding pigtail, bolted to the column support or dash frame
 
67Dart273 said:
There can be one or more of several issues.

"Changed the voltage limiter." Where did you get it and is it an original type? I would get a solid state one. RTE is one outfit

The gauge studs can be loose/ corroded and not make contact with the pc board. "Work" the nuts loose/ tight a few times

The contact fingers for the IVR may not make good contact with the PC board. Solder jumpers across the contact fingers to the PC board traces

The harness connector pins on the board may be loose/ corroded. Clean them up and solder them. Get your self some liquid or paste ELECTRICAL (electronic) soldering flux, NOT the stuff for plumbing, and some electrical solder
The PC board may not be grounding, which, originally, was through the cluster mounting screws. Find a common ground point on the board (follow grounding traces on instrument lamps to a mounting screw) and add a grounding pigtail, bolted to the column support or dash frame
Click to expand...
Thanks. The pins are right. Will check the nuts and connections.
 
There used to be a great thread about fixing these, but photobucket fotophucked us all and now you cannot see the photos

Here is a photo of the IVR "connector" The problem are the "teeth" looking things. These are the spring fingers that stick down below the board and connect with the spades on the IVR. Those spring contacts lose contact with the board, IE the silvery looking rectangles. You need to clean that up, flux it, and solder a good fillet all the way around

dartpcboard.jpg
 
Adding a little more info about you're wiring.
The ignition switch wiring under the dash has two separate connectors.
The red and black wires have their own plastic connector.
According to the factory wiring diagram one black wire with white strip and one red wire with white strip go to the ammeter.
There are more fusible links on the 76 model than earlier years.
Should become clearer when you receive a wiring diagram.
An example of the ignition switch connectors.
www.ebay.com

NOS 1970-76 Mopar Non Tilt Ignition Switch 3746936 | eBay

Based on my research this fits most 1970-76 Chrysler Plymouth and Dodge models without tilt wheel. This switch has the 2 wire in a separate plug.
www.ebay.com
 
Thanks. I saw 3 fusible links underneath the hood and the connectors you mentioned. One year only stuff on the duster.
 
67Dart273 said:
There used to be a great thread about fixing these, but photobucket fotophucked us all and now you cannot see the photos

Here is a photo of the IVR "connector" The problem are the "teeth" looking things. These are the spring fingers that stick down below the board and connect with the spades on the IVR. Those spring contacts lose contact with the board, IE the silvery looking rectangles. You need to clean that up, flux it, and solder a good fillet all the way around

View attachment 1716327189
Click to expand...
Ok. Thanks. That makes sense.
 
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