8 1/4 rear and jeep brakes!

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awesome... whats your total cost if you dont mind me asking and what parts were you able to use from the junk yard?
 
130 for the brackets and calipers
65 for pads, ebrake shoes and rotors
65 for new hoses and e brake cables from rock auto.
15 universal cable connectors
brake fluid
 
The calipers were old and I rebuilt them with new seals like 2 ea for the seals. Rotors, pads and e brake shoes are new.
 
Just an update. I added an adjustable prop valve and it stops like a late model car!
 
Up on the drivers inner fender well to make it easy to get to.
 
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I installed mine on the inner frame rail just about even with the front of the door. To set
I found a big, empty parking lot after it had rained and adjusted the brakes until the
Front's locked just before the rears.
You want to try this at a pretty good speed.
Something like 40mph. Be careful and give yourself plenty of room.
 
Im doing the same swap later and have brackets, rotors and calibers waiting. Im still trying to figure how to fab the e-brake. What cables you used??
 
Dusterfreak said:
Im doing the same swap later and have brackets, rotors and calibers waiting. Im still trying to figure how to fab the e-brake. What cables you used??
Click to expand...

Good timing freak. I just happened to be in the garage and shot some pictures.
I was able to use the stock cables and hose clamps. Works great but I don't use it much with my auto. If you have a stick you may want something more permanent. Mopar Action did a swap a few months back and welded up the brackets if you need to.
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I used the shortest e brake cables from a jeep I could find then just made tabs for the frame and shortened the intermediate cable to need. Looks factory and is solid. Used to be in the photos before the upgrade with the part numbers!:mad:
 
Hey Just FYI I had to do this afterwards. Shim the C clips on the axels so you have minimum in/out play. Rubs on the pads and the sound will drive you nuts. You can get various thicknesses at any bearing shop.
 
I did this swap end of last summer, but still working on e-brake cables. Only drove it from my place to my Dad's to park it for the winter and while I feel it is mandatory for my swap (4 speed car), I figured I could wait.

My plan is to shorten the factory Jeep cable. I figured out a sheath measurement, but want to verify before I cut anything. When I have confirmed the number, I am going to cut the end of the cable off, shorten the sheath and then have a new ball swedged on. Hopefully, I can use the standard clips and intermediate cable. Time will tell.
 
Found mine on RA went through all the cables that had the right end for the caliper. Bought the shortest ones available and still had to cut the intermediate cable and swedge it. Works great though, would not hesitate parking it in N on a hill with them on.
 
I know there is a company around that will make the cables custom with the proper ends you want. Of course I found it after I was done.
 
What are you guys using for wheel studs? I have aftermarket wheels and the wish I could get a few more turns on the lug nuts. Currently they are the 98 Jeep GC studs.
 
Stock mopar worked for me got three treads past the jug nuts.
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread - are most guys using the stock master with an adjustable proportioning valve?
 
I use a one from a mopar truck, small plastic reservoir. Same one Dr. Diff sells and a adjustable prop valve.
 
I used the stock master and summit adjustable prop valve however I would go halifaxhops plastic reservoir if you don't care about originality. Save some weight and I think the proportioning is more favorable. I also read that some of the older MC's have a restrictor where the line out is that should be removed. I didn't find one on the rebuilt unit I used. Mine does work great.
 
I just found this thread and one thing stood out, I know for a fact I was able to remove 11" drum brakes from a 1969 8 3/4" axle housing and bolt them up with no mods to a 1990s 8 1/4" housing out of a Jeep Cherokee XJ. Only difference was the 8 1/4" housing had one less bolt on each side at the tube flange. I put that whole setup in a 1988 Chrysler M-body to upgrade from the 7 1/4" with those atrocious 2.21 gears, all dropped right in!

Older Grand Cherokees are all over the place here in junkyards and for sale, Colorado is Jeep land.
 
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