8 1/4 Seal

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pacuda59

pacuda59

pacuda59
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I'm prepping the 8 1/4 for blasting and painting and want to drain the fluid. I understand there isn't a gasket under the cover. What should I use?
 
RDS 55047,Fel Pro part number , lot easier then sloppy silicone . Any auto parts store should have in , just give them this fel pro number , they can cross it over to what they carry.
 
I don't have a gasket in mine. I just used plain old RTV and it hasn't leaked in years.
 
Leadfoot said:
I don't have a gasket in mine. I just used plain old RTV and it hasn't leaked in years.
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Chrysler engineered it to have a gasket, for less then 20.00 why not use a gasket that it was built with?
 
A quick follow-up.
I placed the order with RPM Offroad and there was a discrepancy with the postage. In the ad is says postage is included but there was a $9.95 charge on the total. Anyway I called and they promised to investigate and get back to me. Within 10 minutes they were back on the phone with me confirming that the postage charge was removed. Good company to deal with!
 
While we're on the topic of the 8 1/4, attached to one of the cover plate bolts is a metal tab to secure the brake line. I have one remaining and with one more bend it will probably snap off. I assume there were two originally. What are these called and where do you source them?
Also, there is a T valve for the brake lines bolted to the axle. Again, what is this called?
 
Thanks again Mopardrt.
The T valve intersects the rubber hydraulic line and the two metal brake lines. It's mounted by the screw in the axle diagram. I believe under all the crud it's brass.
 
pacuda59 said:
Also, there is a T valve for the brake lines bolted to the axle. Again, what is this called?
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So you have the gasket, when I put my rear end together I used just a little silicone on each side of the gasket "just cause" to be sure it sealed properly. Just a little on the finger and put a thin coating on the gasket stick it on the rear and a thin coat cover side. It's not necessary, but it isn't going to hurt either.

The clip is attached to the cover I believe, so if it does break you can get a couple of the metal clips with rubber liner in them and attach the brake line to a couple of the bolts, ( 11 o'clock and 1 0'clock) when you put the cover on leave those two bolts out until you get your brake line formed up and over the cover, then put those around the line and bolt em on.

The block you are referring to is probably part of the rubber line going to the diff, I would replace that as long as you are there, 10-12 bucks is a minimal investment. Make sure you have a vented bolt to attach the distribution block.

Clips
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As long as you are going to all the trouble, I would just replace everything, line to the diff, lines to the wheel cylinders, wheel cylinders, brakes, etc. It should offer you years of trouble free service.

Vented bolt
 

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The part you asked about is called a rear brake line T block or T fitting.
 
Thanks Bruce,

The overall plan is to replace the lines and brakes. I'm going to open it up and drain the lubricant, put it back together and get it blasted and painted. I like the clip idea.
The rubber line had already been cut when I picked up the rear end so I don't have a visual reference to its origination but I'm sure I can find a diagram.
I'll take a picture of the T valve and post it.
 
Nothing any worse is looking at a part, that should have had a gasket , and shitty blue or red silicone squeezing out around it .Call me fussy but i am with MOPARDRT , use the proper gasket .
 
Look at it closely, the brass block typically is part of that rubber line. The one on your car now may work.

When I swapped in my 8 3/4 I just elected to put a brand new line there, over time those rubber lines can and will go bad.

CAUTION: If/when you change that rubber line it can be a little difficult to get off the car end. I got lucky and mine just broke loose like it had only been there a week.
 
kt340sport said:
Nothing any worse is looking at a part, that should have had a gasket , and shitty blue or red silicone squeezing out around it .Call me fussy but i am with MOPARDRT , use the proper gasket .
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Yup I would use it too, I used one on my 8 3/4 and did what I described above, no oozing of silicone. :D
 
Just popped the differential cover and drained the fluid which looked like molasses. The inside of the cover is coated with tar. Question, what should I soak it in to clean it?
 
Wipe the heavy off with rag , then if you have any brake cleaner , give it a spray it will run right off clean .If it is a sure grip i would use the additive ,then 80 w 90 to it after cover goes back on .
 
pacuda59 said:
Just popped the differential cover and drained the fluid which looked like molasses. The inside of the cover is coated with tar. Question, what should I soak it in to clean it?
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No parts washer? Just plop it in some mineral spirits, kerosene etc. let it soak a bit then get a parts cleaner brush (it has hard bristles) and scrub it up.
 
pacuda59 said:
Question....when replacing the differential cover, do the bolts need to be torqued?
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It's a good idea. After all your bolting on a real thin cover that distorts easily. The torque spec is 20 ft. lbs. I'd tighten them to 10 first then go back around tightening them to 20. Before you install it make sure you lay the cover on a perfectly flat table or bench and verify the holes aren't distorted. If so use a small hammer to tap them back out flat. You want that cover as flat as possible or it may leak.

BTW: the brake T is not a valve, just a distribution block that connects the single line coming from the M/cyl to both wheels. Mine looked just as bad as yours when I bought my car. 5 minutes with a can of carb cleaner and a quick polish with a wire wheel and it looked like new. Replace the hose and lines of course. They can break down from the inside and you never know it's a problem until they blow and you have no brakes.
 
Bad Sport said:
Look at it closely, the brass block typically is part of that rubber line. The one on your car now may work.

When I swapped in my 8 3/4 I just elected to put a brand new line there, over time those rubber lines can and will go bad.

CAUTION: If/when you change that rubber line it can be a little difficult to get off the car end. I got lucky and mine just broke loose like it had only been there a week.
Click to expand...

Is there a trick to removing the rubber line. I's in there pretty good and the brass sleeve is crimped around the base of the hose.
 
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