8 3/4 axle shaft seals

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dave273dart

dave273dart

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My 67 maintenacne manual shows 2 shaft seals on each side, right and left, one inner and the outer. I have put the inner one in-is there a outer seal between the flang and the bearing. The bearings and cup are good. I have a late model 65-72 housing and a (741) 2.76. I hope taht I don't need to pull the bearings to replace a seal. Can all that knowledge out there help me. Thanks

Dave
 
Dave the most common seal leaks are the inner seals because they are what holds in the gear lube and all you have to do is pull the axles and change out the inner seal(s). The outer seal just seals off the dust from getting into the greased bearings and holds the grease intact. One other thing to note is if the inner seal did let loose it usually washes out the grease from the bearing so you have to re-grease the bearing(s). I use a needle point grease fitting to re-grease them.
 
Thanks fishey68!

I have already change the inner seals. I am switching out my 3.55 to my 2.76. The 3.55 is really nice but not very streetable.

Dave
 
dave273dart said:
Fishy68

Would you have to pull the bearings to put in the outer seals?

Dave
Click to expand...

Yeah you do Dave. That's a bugger too cause you have to carefully cut off the retainer ring that holds the bearing on with a cut-off tool then the bearing will press off. Be real careful not to cut into the axle. Of course you'll need a new ring to hold the bearings on and I haven't been able to fine a place that sells just the ring. I always end up putting new bearings on them. If it's still leaking after you put the inner seals in these seals aren't the problem cause all they do is act as a dust shield for the bearings and hold in the grease. It's still a problem with the inner seals. Either they didn't seal up for some reason or possibly a groove is worn on the axles where the seal rides which is a pretty common problem. I have read of guys installing double inner seals to stop the leak but I haven't tried it so I'm not positive it would work. If it clears the bearing retainer ring it should work. What's happening there is the outer most seal is riding on a part of the axle shaft that is good (no groove worn in it). Another thing it could be is you didn't get the seals in correctly as they aren't an easy seal to install. I buggered up the first one I did. If you have any other questions feel free to pm me if you like and I'll send you my ph # so you can get in touch with me faster.
 
Fishy68,

Thanks again for the advice. I dont think that I will try to replace the outer seals. As far as the inner seals, I was very carful in putting them in. I used a piece of 2" pvc to install the seals-works great.

I do have another question though. My righ hand flange is a little wavey (a little bent on one side-is this going to affect the sealing or adjustment. I also read a post about steel shims-there are no steel shims on my axles. Is there suppose to be and are they available. My 67 maintenance manual does not show steel shims.

The guy that gave me the 8 3/4 told me that is was 65-72, the chunk is however, a 741. I appreciate you offering you phone number-I hate to disturbe you at home-let me keep it in mind. My e mail is [email protected]. Dave
 
Yeah pvc does work good. I've used it too. I don't think I'd trust the adjuster plate if it's warped. Bad thing is you have to remove the bearing to get it off though. But better to do that then have another problem. There should be steel shims/seals between the backing plates and the housing ends so they may be there and you just didn't see them. If there not there I think you can get them at NAPA. Maybe even O'Reilly's or Autozone if you find a decent parts guy.

Oh yeah. Don't sell them 741's short. They'll take alot more abuse than alot of guys think.
 
Fishy,

Thanks for the advice again. "The right parts guy" huh. I truly know more about old cars than the parts guys or gals in this area. I have been around a long time, 67 years as a matter of fact.
Are the flanges available, new or used?
I read some info on the internet yesterday-Chrysler 8 3/4 web. It said that the shims are no longer used on rears with the adjuster plate. There are none on my rear. What do you think Fishy? Oh ya, what is Tyr Fryr's Inc.
Nice Mopar you have. Its a great body.
I will wait to hear from you before I put the rear together.
The bearings are nice and tight but I guess I should check on new ones and having them installed-I don't think that they have ever been changed.

Enjoy talking.
Dave
 
Glad to help Dave. I don't doubt you know more than the parts guys or gals around you. Same here. If I'm lucky I find one at each store that even knows who made the Barracuda much less is able to find parts for it. I haven't heard of not using the shims but to be honest I don't think it'd be a big deal. I think originally they were meant to be dust shields. Heck I think more dust happens from brake shoe wear than could ever get in from between the housing ends and backing plates. Plus their only about .040" thick so the adjustment would easily make up for that. I looked at NAPA online and they aren't listed so they may be hard to get. I'd just put it together and adjust the bearings and go with it. Maybe if somebody else reads this they can input their thoughts. That's a tough call on replacing the bearings because the originals were really good parts that lasted a long time. Unless you buy good Timken or BCA bearings you may get lesser quality bearings (Chinese junk). Thanks for the compliment. I got lucky and found a nearly rust free car locally so I didn't have to fix up the body. Just all the mechanical stuff. The paint job is about 12 yrs. old. I has flaws you can see up close but isn't too bad. Plenty good for a drive to have fun in and not worry about scratching a $5k paint job. LOL

Tyr Fryr's Inc. is just something silly I came up with for the user title. Everybody new starts out with junior member as their title but you can change it in your control panel to say most anything you want. If you look at all the different avatar's you'll see alot of different user titles.

Did you get my e-mail? I sent my phone # along if you want to jaw about our cars.
 
The steel shim/gasket that goes between the backing plate and axle flange is available from Fel-Pro. Part #55032. I ordered mine thru Murrays Auto Parts which is now O'Reilly's. When I took my 8-3/4 apart there were 2 or 3 gaskets on each side. They looked pretty crappy that is why I replaced them. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks 73Duster!
My 8 3/4 never had shims in it when it was given to me. My 67 maintenance manual does not show having shims. I did not use shims when I took out my 3.55 and put my 2.76 back in. I adjusted the axle and everything seems to be fine. How critical is it to have the shim in? Thanks for the partr number.

Dave
 
I don't think it would be that big a deal if you didn't use them. They are not that thick to begin with. Its more of a gasket than a shim. I would put it together and as long as you get the proper axle adjustment go with it.
 
73Duster said:
The steel shim/gasket that goes between the backing plate and axle flange is available from Fel-Pro. Part #55032. I ordered mine thru Murrays Auto Parts which is now O'Reilly's. When I took my 8-3/4 apart there were 2 or 3 gaskets on each side. They looked pretty crappy that is why I replaced them. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

These steel gaskets are also Victor Reinz part #J27961 (CarQuest).
 
dave273dart said:
Thanks fishey68!

I have already change the inner seals. I am switching out my 3.55 to my 2.76. The 3.55 is really nice but not very streetable.

Dave
Click to expand...

Wow, that's a big drop Dave, 3.5s to 2.7s....I'm curious as to why you say 3.55 is not very streetable? You'd rev around 3000 at 65-70 mph, right? I've just purchsed a 741 suregrip with 3.55 gears to replace 3.23 gears in a 489 carrier, and I would have thought 3.55 was the perfect compromise for the street. But then again I've never run 3,55 gears in a car before, hence my curiosity.
 
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