8 3/4 brace welding

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mbaird

mbaird

mbaird
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Do I need to weld the entire length of the brace ?
Seems like overkill...
 
If you do, tack it up and weld about 3 inches at a time and move to the other side. What are you trying to accomplish?
 
this will be going behind a 408 solid roller motor and I just want to make sure it can handle a launch or 2. It wont be a dedicated drag car.... Maybe 2 races per year.
HP could be in the 500s depending on my cam choice.... I dont plan on 5k clutch dumps but....
 
mbaird said:
Do I need to weld the entire length of the brace ?
Seems like overkill...
Click to expand...


and bracing a 8 3/4 rear end doesnt seem like overkill ?

if your going to go through the trouble of welding up a perfectly good rear end, you might as well do it properly and weld it all the way
but, as pishta said, weld it in 3 inch increments, then spin it around welding the other said (this will keep it from getting too hot and warping)
 
But will it really be any stronger by welding the entire length of it ? The perches are only held on by two 3" welds and they are going through rotational torque that would be far greater than the flexing of the tubes... I would assume.
Will it potentially do more harm than good ?
There must be a point of diminishing returns..
 
you may be right, but unless you have a way of figuring out where this point of diminishing returns is your best bet is to err on the side of caution
 
I will just check the welds after each launch and count the broken welds....then add 2 for every one that pops ! lol

yeah....That's the ticket....
 
This is a very uneducated observation/question but...
Would all that heat britalize the mild steel in the tubes? Or have some type of effect?
 
The walls on an 8-3/4 housing are relatively thin (that's the reason for a back brace in the first place). Even if only weld a few inches at a time, letting it cool between welds, you're still going to have distortion. Whether or not it'll be enough to cause any issue is anyone's guess. You'd be best off welding it in with an alignment jig in place. Even then, you may have to adjust the ends.
 
You should brace it to the flanges. You have to make holes in the braces to clear the U bolts.

It's worth it to go to the end. The loads end up at the end.
 
The brace does not go as far as the perches.
I believe its a Moser... The inner mounts are for a rear sway bar.

Boxing the perches is a new one to me as well..
Have you guys wver seen perch welds fail?
IMG_20170822_200424.jpg
 
Someone posted a pic of a diff snout pointing straight down....
 
mbaird said:
The brace does not go as far as the perches.
I believe its a Moser... The inner mounts are for a rear sway bar.

Boxing the perches is a new one to me as well..
Have you guys ever seen perch welds fail?
Click to expand...

Sure have. Boxing the perches is pretty much a necessity for a race car IMO
 
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