I wonder what it would measure, torqued down with the old crush sleeve in it.
Also make sure that inner race is seated in the case all the way.
Also make sure that inner race is seated in the case all the way.
I had that same idea, but then I discovered the dead center of the carrier bearing bore, isnt exactly at the parting line of the cap. Your results may varyAre you ready for my idea?
Take a pushrod or straight edge an mount it catty-cornered across the cap area.
It would be underneath the cap on one side of the carrier and the other would be underneath the cap on the other side of carrier so that the straight edge is above the back of the pinion.
Then take a caliper and measure from the back of the pinion to the bottom side of the pushrod or flat Edge.
Then you would add Shims in order to bring it up to that number that is scribed in the back of the pinion.
This is how aftermarket gears are set up. OEM not so much.
Anyway it won't hurt to try it.
Another tool (Miller) that seems to work pretty good. Call around to some rent-all outfits. Maybe they just happen to have it available..……With this tool. I have the same tool as in this video. If you ever plan to do it again, invest in this tool.
Actually, no, not "all" that is used setup a 489. I believe that kit handles 7-1/4", 8-1/4", 8-3/4", Dana 60, and includes a pinion race install tool.Really, all this to set up a 489 once?...….
Not "all that" as in the kits equipment, but all the specialty tools to measure one thing.Actually, no, not "all" that is used setup a 489. I believe that kit handles 7-1/4", 8-1/4", 8-3/4", Dana 60, and includes a pinion race install tool.
Not "all that" as in the kits equipment, but all the specialty tools to measure one thing.
Update: I looked at the pinion and how it was seated in the race and the darn thing was hung up on the bottom (yoke hanging down) by a shim (?) between the oil seal and the front bearing! The pinion threads were hanging the pinion up off the setup bearing by just a hair, that would explain the slightly rough turning of the pinion that I felt. After figuring that out (I popped the oil seal off and ditched the old bearing and some shim looking thing on top of the small bearing by the yoke) the pinion sat down and spun like a skateboard wheel. I placed the pushrod across the carrier and measured but I could not get a repeatable measurement due to the round nature of the pushrod and the swinging angle of the caliper depth probe. I needed a square beam across so I could get a 90 degree reference for the caliper to pinion measurement. I found a perfect fit from half of a tube flaring press. Its .550 square, straight, flat and fit between the caps. With this setup I measured the bare pinion (without any shims) to be 2.787 deep repeatably. So now I am confident that I only need a .020 shim under the pinion to bring it up to the spec'd 2.767 scribed on the pinion face. Makes much more sense than the old 2.607 measurement that I got when it was not fully seated in the race. First pic is 'spanner' over caps to provide a centerline reference, second pic is bonus of using a square stock over a pushrod as you can get a 90 degree reference for your caliper so you
see post #17...already did it.Bearings are cheap. Buy a new one and hone it for a slip fit.
Great help all!Now your cooking with gas.
Good now you should be able to get it together.
Bearings are cheap. Buy a new one and hone it for a slip fit.
Copy that rusty we did think about That but opted to machine 2 flats on the end of the round bar that is clamped in the vice I think what I will do is make those 2 flats the whole length of the vice and give me a lot more strength. we were able to put a lot of weight on it and it didn't budge so I think will be all right but thanks for the suggestionMan I like that jig you made........but I have a suggestion......and no offense meant, I think it's great. But as you assemble that case, it's going to get really heavy. Those vise jaws may let you down holding that piece of round pipe stock. Why not take it out and weld a piece if say 6" x 2" 1/4" flat plate on the end? That would give the vise a better bite.
Just a suggestion. Your feet may thank you.
Copy that rusty we did think about That but opted to machine 2 flats on the end of the round bar that is clamped in the vice I think what I will do is make those 2 flats the whole length of the vice and give me a lot more strength. we were able to put a lot of weight on it and it didn't budge so I think will be all right but thanks for the suggestion
Well rusty believe it or not i think # 1 priority is safety My son made this for me yesterday when I was out and thought the flats would be enough to hold it but I think you're rightWell keep it in the back of your mind.......cause it it decides to move, it's gonna do it all at once.
I can tell u that maybe 1/3 of the diffs I do has the caps cut in the Center of the circle. I have been doing diffs for 40 years. The proper tools are by far the best and the fastest to use. The old school way was to install the pinion with the factory shim and see what kind of a pattern u got. Then u guessed what shim u would need. When I first started doing diffs I could not beg, borrow or steal the arbour set up. KimThis will be a picture of the two caps off of a 489 housing against each other. You will notice they form a perfect circle. Which tells us that the other side of this is the housing must also form a perfect half circle so whoever comes up with this that the Caps are not cut in the center is full of crap.
View attachment 1715322513
I also took measurements around the circle to make sure it was a circle. The only way these caps would work if they were not split at the center of the hole would be if one side was u-shaped.