flathead31coupe
Well-Known Member
if I have two tapered axels no green bearings or adjuster... and iam using a spool why couldn't I just cut and old axel to make up the difference and put between the other axles and run it...
I was just thinking since I have the two non adj tapered axels already...and using a spool that's splined straight through. just make up the difference between the axels with a slight tolerance.. it would wrkSounds like a good plan.
But then, I've never installed greens. My recollection is that they don't require any location at all, so then the center spacer would be redundant. That is to say;not required at all.
The tapered axles, I'm assuming, are the old style, with a splined,bolt-on flange?
-------------------------------------------------------
But, if, by tapered,you mean to say that you want to use the tapered timpkin bearings, then they absolutely need locating.Then your plan will work for a little while, assuming you can cut and finish the spacer to establish the correct endplay. But what happens, down the road, as the bearings wear,and the endplay gets excessive, and there are no adjusters?
I suppose you could install a shim pack on one side, and then install/fit your spacer.Then you could adjust the endplay with the shim-pack.
Nuttin' wrong wit dat idea,'cept da hassle of changing shims.
when you use the green or ball bearings what are you really doing when you change to themI was just thinking since I have the two non adj tapered axels already...and using a spool that's splined straight through. just make up the difference between the axels with a slight tolerance.. it would wrk
when you use the green or ball bearings what are you really doing when you change to them
ok thanks....and the adjuster, i'd go w/green bearings, snap ring type, and be done with it.
higgs
talk to kass at dr. diff, he'll get u what u need, great prices too.......
higgs
A customer of mine has a very heavy E body he road races. Car will run 145+ on the track, 550hp stroked B wedge. It runs the 8 3/4 with Green bearings, good axles, and a Tru Trac. He abuses that car much more than anything a street car guy will do and they've been in there for 10 years. Nothing "weaker" about the sealed Green bearings vs. factory tapered cone.
the tapered chrysler roller greasable bearings are better than the green sealed ball bearings, especially in a non straight line only car. If U have stock roller bearings why no adjuster? my spool is not splined all the way thru, but is hollow, so U could use a piece of axle as a spacer-BUT it needs to be of a precise length to give the axle bearings .005" - .015" play! (without an adjuster)
A customer of mine has a very heavy E body he road races. Car will run 145+ on the track, 550hp stroked B wedge. It runs the 8 3/4 with Green bearings, good axles, and a Tru Trac. He abuses that car much more than anything a street car guy will do and they've been in there for 10 years. Nothing "weaker" about the sealed Green bearings vs. factory tapered cone.
A customer of mine has a very heavy E body he road races. Car will run 145+ on the track, 550hp stroked B wedge. It runs the 8 3/4 with Green bearings, good axles, and a Tru Trac. He abuses that car much more than anything a street car guy will do and they've been in there for 10 years. Nothing "weaker" about the sealed Green bearings vs. factory tapered cone.