8 3/4" Options For '65 Valiant

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VIOLENT\6

VIOLENT\6

12 second N/A Slant 6?
Joined
Mar 31, 2007
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Location
Massena, NY...Almost Cana
I'm an old fart getting back into this after many years.

I re-poed my son's '65 valiant after he decided he didn't want to make payments on the truck that I co-signed for. The Valiant was colateral.

Anyway, up until a couple of years ago I was one of the pioneering gearheads modding the new LS bodied Chargers, but that is a lot more civilized than wrenching on '60s technology.

I did own a '70 340 dart Swinger 4-speed in 1973 so I'm not a total greenhorn.

Getting to the point.

I'm going to change out to front disc brakes so I want to do the diff swap at the same time so that I can run 5 X 4 1/2" wheels all around.

What are my options as far as getting a proper width 8 3/4" diff under the rear?
 
Any A-bodie 8 3/4 rear from 66-72 or 8 1/4 from 73 up will be a direct bolt in.Axels can be swapped from sbp to lbp for the 66-72 from Dr.Diff,Strange,Moser.You will have to measure your driveshaft for fitment.Good luck.
 
pettybludart said:
Any A-bodie 8 3/4 rear from 66-72 or 8 1/4 from 73 up will be a direct bolt in.Axels can be swapped from sbp to lbp for the 66-72 from Dr.Diff,Strange,Moser.You will have to measure your driveshaft for fitment.Good luck.
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Not interested in 8 1/4.

How hard is it to narrow a unit from another body series?

I'm in an area where junkyards are not common.

Very rural area of Northern NY state, 13 miles from canada eh?
 
PowerWagon896 said:
Not interested in 8 1/4.

How hard is it to narrow a unit from another body series?

I'm in an area where junkyards are not common.

Very rural area of Northern NY state, 13 miles from canada eh?
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13 minutes eh?I,m an hour from the border and have a 8 3/4 housing only for sale.:DI,m in Oakville,Ontario just inbetween Hamilto and Toronto.
 
Supershafts said:
It's not easy to shorten a housing and you need special tools
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I'm well aware of what is involved. This ain't my 1st rodeo.

Shortening the housing isn't all that technical. I could get that done locally.

As a journeyman pipefitter W/18 years experience I think I could manage to shorten the housing & keep it square.

Where does one get shortened axles @ a reasonable price? I don't need anything super heavy duty.

What would really help is a list of doner vehicles.
 
If you narrow a B or E body 8 3/4, just do it to accept A body axle's. I am also using the green bearings in the diff. Get Scotts housing sent ground, and it would be easier than finding a new housing and shorting it.

I'm running a 68 A body 8 3/4 with Yukon 4.5 BBP axle's and wilwod disc up front, in a 65 Cuda.

BTW, cool Charger!!
 
pettybludart said:
I,m in the same boat as you,can,t cross.Stupid border!:protest:
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I have a friend in Cornwall that might be able to bring the housing across.

How much would you want including deliver/ship to Cornwall?

You could also get the cost to ship ground to 13662. (comercial business address.
 
Keith Mopar said:
BTW, cool Charger!!
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[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-Sbz2Etl_A"]PowerWagon 12.06 N/A Track Day @ Atco Rental 04-13-09 - YouTube[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhG0KlXEOnU"]Atco track rental 2009 04 13 Powerwagon 11.3 nitrous run - YouTube[/ame]

Unfiortunately, financial pressure required me to sell off the mods & return to (almost) stock. It still has the 4900 stall (flashes 3600 on that engine) Pro Torque Billit stator torque convertor.

It would still come close to 12.99 as is. It ran 13.86 when it was new (stock) W/just a tuner & a few tricks.

Mods in place during that clip:

Mopar Performace 5.7 heads portmatched to a 6.1 intake manifold
Mopar Performace LT headers
Billy Boat 3" S/S catback
AFE Stage II CAI
6.1 injectors scaled to 5.7 ECU
Custom ground Crower cam
2800 stal Pro Torque TC
Paramount Performance 3.23 axle ratio (4.55 FDR in 3rd) 8.8 Ford IRS conversion
4.50X26 M&H Frontrunners on 17: V6 spare wheels
325 17R M&H Drag radials on Centerline 17 X 7 wheels

Still had MDS active (drops out 4 cylinders for maximum MPG under low load conditions) It would get 26 MPG hi-way, 20 MPG mixed driving in my rural /small town setting.

The car had high 11s/mid10s potential (motor/juice) but I was never able to get to a good day @ the track after I upped the stall speed. The 1 track session I had after the TC swap, I had corrupted my custom tune & was running on a stock tune. Car was way off & ran mid 12s.

I can't afford to hotrod the LX anymore, I was forced into early retirement in '09. I'm going to incrementally hop up my '65 Valiant. It's a LOT cheaper.

The Valiant is a california survivor car. Original paint, 70K miles, no rust.

1st order of business is getting it on 5 X 4 1/2" wheels/rubber W/disc brakes on the front 4.10 SG in back.

I want to see how close I can get to 12.99 in a streetable combo W/the Slant 6.

If I ever go V8 it will be a Gen III pre '09 5.7 with the NAG-1 tranny.

The NAG-1 has internal ratios that will = a TH400 (in 1st to 3rd gear) on 4.56 gears when a 3.23 is in the rear.

In a light A-Body something like a 3.08 would be ideal. (4.34 FDR in 3rd)
 
PowerWagon896 said:
I'm well aware of what is involved. This ain't my 1st rodeo.

Shortening the housing isn't all that technical. I could get that done locally.

As a journeyman pipefitter W/18 years experience I think I could manage to shorten the housing & keep it square.

Where does one get shortened axles @ a reasonable price? I don't need anything super heavy duty.

What would really help is a list of doner vehicles.
Click to expand...


Then you know it needs to be kept true to the center section bore not sq to the housing, so it might be your 1st rodeo. Not keeping it true to the center gives you misaligned ends and drag, and sq'ing it and then if it's off when it moves from welding and then working the housing to get it to line up gives you bearings not running right and again more drag.

Axles can be bought at Strange, Moser or you could buy some axles from someone who has a A body and went to better axles.
.
 
Supershafts said:
Then you know it needs to be kept true to the center section bore not sq to the housing, so it might be your 1st rodeo. Not keeping it true to the center gives you misaligned ends and drag, and sq'ing it and then if it's off when it moves from welding and then working the housing to get it to line up gives you bearings not running right and again more drag.

Axles can be bought at Strange, Moser or you could buy some axles from someone who has a A body and went to better axles.
.
Click to expand...

Yes I know it needs to be square W/the bore on the center section (centerline) & a fixture is needed to check this.

The question is: How square is square?

Take any OEM housing out & check to see if it is absolutely square W/the centerline & I'll bet you you will seldom find 1 absolutely square.
 
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