8 3/4 rear end confusion

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Thank you everyone for the replies! I will first shine a light to make sure that the thrust button hasn't interfered with the splines. I will then get the car into neutral and have someone move the driveshaft around while I try to wiggle the axle into place. Mounting the tire back on for leverage is a good idea. I read somewhere that the inner seal face should be 1 11/16 inches from the axle housing flange. Mine was not that far in so I hit it further in and I think it is now sitting against the ridge which is correct. I also measured and it is right around 1 11/16in away. I used a socket that was a bit smaller than the 2in socket I used at first to hit the seal in, just cuz the 2in I had was rubbing against the inside of the axle housing and I didn't want to scratch it up but now I think the inner part of the seal is further in than the outer part, because of the smaller socket. I hope that doesn't cause an issue. I'll let you guys know. Thanks again!!
Don't put the tire on. The axle needs to go in straight or you let it lean on the seal, it will damage the seal. And make sure you have the correct seal, cause auto parts places are listing the wrong ones.
 
Hello everyone. So I tried most of the ideas provided in this thread and here's how it went. As you all know, I was having lots of trouble getting the driver side axle to fully slide into place. So then I went to the passenger side.. I was able to get the passenger side axle in super easily and now that side is all done. Going back to driver's side...... I tried having someone spin the dif/the passenger side tire so that I can try to slip in the driver side axle the entire way. When I spin the passenger side axle, it forces the driver side axle to spin the same way so I don't know how this would work. I tried putting the passenger side onto the ground and spinning the driver side. I even took the inner seal out just to see if the axle would go in without the seal in the way and then I would know the seal is the issue. Absolutely nothing has worked in my case. The driver side axle is going through the first set of splines but then it just gets butted up against something and will not go in any further. When I put the passenger side tire back on the ground, I was not able to spin the driver side axle even with a crowbar. When the car is in the air and I spin one side, the other side spins the same way. So putting the car on the ground prevents one side from spinning which would then not allow me to spin the other side. I'm not sure how the one individual in this thread that recommended that got it to work that way but maybe I'm doing something wrong. Any further assistance is appreciated. If someone is close to the Chicagoland area and is willing to make the trip up to help, I'd appreciate it. I'll cover your gas and buy you lunch haha, thanks guys.
 
Hello everyone. So I tried most of the ideas provided in this thread and here's how it went. As you all know, I was having lots of trouble getting the driver side axle to fully slide into place. So then I went to the passenger side.. I was able to get the passenger side axle in super easily and now that side is all done. Going back to driver's side...... I tried having someone spin the dif/the passenger side tire so that I can try to slip in the driver side axle the entire way. When I spin the passenger side axle, it forces the driver side axle to spin the same way so I don't know how this would work. I tried putting the passenger side onto the ground and spinning the driver side. I even took the inner seal out just to see if the axle would go in without the seal in the way and then I would know the seal is the issue. Absolutely nothing has worked in my case. The driver side axle is going through the first set of splines but then it just gets butted up against something and will not go in any further. When I put the passenger side tire back on the ground, I was not able to spin the driver side axle even with a crowbar. When the car is in the air and I spin one side, the other side spins the same way. So putting the car on the ground prevents one side from spinning which would then not allow me to spin the other side. I'm not sure how the one individual in this thread that recommended that got it to work that way but maybe I'm doing something wrong. Any further assistance is appreciated. If someone is close to the Chicagoland area and is willing to make the trip up to help, I'd appreciate it. I'll cover your gas and buy you lunch haha, thanks guys.

Have you tried having someone rotate the driveshaft?

Slide the axle through the first set of splines until it stops. Back it out a smidge, then rock the driveshaft back and forth while you push on the axle.

Did you check if the thrust button was intact or if it has fallen down in the way?
 
I have tried having someone rotate the driveshaft. I'll give it another shot tomorrow. So you're just saying to spin the driveshaft back and forth while someone is applying constant pressure on the axle inwards? When the car is in neutral, I'm pretty sure I can only spin the driveshaft one way. Even when I rotate the axle, which rotates the driveshaft, the axle will rotate one way but won't go the other way. So how would I go about rocking it back and forth? Also, I think there was a previous message in this thread stating that since I have a 73, they think I have a cone type sure grip which would mean there is no button to fall out of place. Thanks
 
srt12-340, I keep reading that the cone type has a thrust block and that the clutch type has the buttons and pin. These are very new terms to me and I'm not doubting anyone, just a bit confused. On page one of this thread, cudamark stated that the cone type has a spacer which is just one piece and call fall out, making it seem like the cone type doesn't have the buttons with the pin. I'm gonna shine a light inside the axle housing tomorrow, I just don't know what to look for. Dan, could you explain what you mean by the nut adjuster? I'm not too sure what that is. Thanks everyone
 
And let's just say I do have the thrust buttons with the pin and they are out of place and maybe fell to the bottom of the dif, would that prevent me from putting one of the axles all the way in? Aren't those buttons just for end play?
 
I finally decided to go the easy route and shine a light through the axle housing to see what's in there, I know I should have done this from the beginning. And of course, I see the button laying out of place. I took it out with a magnet and attached pics of how it was sitting in the housing, how the button looks, and the pin next to the button still on the magnet. Do I just need to get this button with the pin going through it back into that hole? Is there a second button somewhere that I can't see? When looking inside, it seems like there is only one hole for one button. Thank you everyone, I really appreciate it!

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That's the setup for the clutch type sure grip. Yes, there is another button just like that one that should be on the other side. The early ones use a roll pin to hold the two halves together. Looks like yours is that type and that the roll pin broke....a fairly common thing. Getting them all back in place without pulling the third member is not going to be easy.
 
Stick the pin in the button. Put it on your magnet nicely centered and pop it back in the hole.. swipe sideways and install axle.
 
That's easy to say....swipe sideways.....not so easy in reality when working down a long tube.
 
This is what the complete set up looks like

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You can get another one from DoctorDiff
"Powr-lok" Thrust Buttons

Looks like your pictures show both halves and the roll pin so you probably have most of it anyway.

Also, going back to your earlier reply, the driveshaft should turn in both directions with the transmission in neutral, not just one.

Stick the pin in the button. Put it on your magnet nicely centered and pop it back in the hole.. swipe sideways and install axle.

The magnet is good for getting things in place but since pretty much all of them are telescoping he’ll probably need a broomstick(s) or similar to get the other half seated all the way onto the roll pin. I like that method vs using the axle to finish it just because the axle is heavy and you get better feel with something lighter
 
I was able to get the button with the pin through it back into the hole and all I did was slightly swipe the magnet sideways and I stuck a conjunction of extensions through the axle housing up until I hit the button and while holding the button in place with the extensions, I pulled back on the magnet. I assume the passenger side button was in place because the axle went in easy, Now, it does seem like than pin may have snapped. Is it a big deal if I just leave it like that? However much of the pin came out with the driver's side button went back into place. Thank you all for your help throughout this and I hope everyone has a happy Easter :)
 
I was able to get the button with the pin through it back into the hole and all I did was slightly swipe the magnet sideways and I stuck a conjunction of extensions through the axle housing up until I hit the button and while holding the button in place with the extensions, I pulled back on the magnet. I assume the passenger side button was in place because the axle went in easy, Now, it does seem like than pin may have snapped. Is it a big deal if I just leave it like that? However much of the pin came out with the driver's side button went back into place. Thank you all for your help throughout this and I hope everyone has a happy Easter :)

Do not assume the passenger side button is in place, you need to check. It could just be sitting in the bottom of the housing, which will mean you won’t be able to adjust the end play on the axles.
 
Without pulling the 3rd member, the way I did it one time was to use some long "magic fingers" to install the left side button with the roll pin sticking out a bit to engage the other button. I then installed the left axle shaft. With that in place, I installed the other button and used a long extension to seat the button onto the roll pin. Then installed the RH axle shaft and set the end play. I just couldn't get a magnet to release the button, so, I had to find another way and I just didn't have the time, gasket, and 90w at the time, or, I would just pull the 3rd member and make life easier.
 
The pin is just there to keep the buttons from falling out. Once in place the pin isn't needed.
 
Okay I see, I’ll pull the passenger side axle again to see if the button is still in place. I’ll do my best to get the axles in without allowing the buttons to fall out. If I can’t get it, I’ll just pull out both buttons and use the green bearings. Idk if I want to pull the dif out just yet. Btw, when I was disassembling my passenger side axle/brake assembly, I noticed that there was no adjuster tab. I’ll have to find one online. If I use the green bearings, can I leave out the buttons and the adjuster? That seems like the easier route but at the same time, everything I’m doing is to learn. I’d like to learn how to set axle play.
 
Just takes a dial indicator to set the end play. The green bearings don't need the buttons or an end play adjustment. They're not as strong a bearing by design, but, a pretty good one regardless. Just use two LH bearing retainers when using the green bearings. If either of the buttons falls into the housing, you HAVE to pull the 3rd member unless you can somehow fish them out with a magnet. Don't just leave them in there and get new ones or convert to the green bearings. Those buttons can jam into the gears and make a real mess of things if left inside.
 
Okay I will check to see if the passenger side button is still in place. I guess I got lucky that the driver side didn’t fall into the dif. What do you mean when you say use two LH bearing retainers with the green bearings? What does LH stand for?
 
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