I found a new short block 360 for $550.00 I have a 1972 360 from a pickup. I sent the heads to the shop to have checked out. will the heads and intake from the 72 fit on this motor? Also will the exhaust manifolds fit? I read somewhere that these are completly diffrent motors, and dont want to buy a short block if my stuff off the 72 wont work on it. thanks all
80-90 roller 360 question
- Thread starter prestigue
- Start date
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It'll all bolt on and work.
The only possible problem is if the blocks deck was milled abit much to straighten it out. Then when the heads go on, intake fitment is a problem. You'll need to mill the heads intake surface a tad to fit the intake on correctly. Otherwise, you may have a hard time sealing up the intake.
The only possible problem is if the blocks deck was milled abit much to straighten it out. Then when the heads go on, intake fitment is a problem. You'll need to mill the heads intake surface a tad to fit the intake on correctly. Otherwise, you may have a hard time sealing up the intake.
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
The heads will bolt on except you will not be able to use the roller cam without opening up the pushrod holes on the non-roller heads. The roller motor had larger pushrod holes in the heads. You have to be careful opening up the non-roller heads so you don't go into the intake port. If you run a flat tappet cam in the roller block then you can use the non-roller heads as is.
Chuck
Chuck
'64 Cuda
Well-Known Member
I have a similar situation with a 91 360 block & J heads. I was talking to somebody at Hughes yesterday & they said I can make more power with a flat tappet hydraulic cam instead of a roller cam. I didn't think to ask him why at the time. Can anybody tell me why? I thought the roller cam would be a good choice because it could have a faster rate of lift than a flat tappet cam. I know cam science is pretty involved, but is there something fairly simple that I'm missing here?
Also, if I decide to use a roller cam, do I need special length pushrods to go with my adjustable LA rocker arms?
Also, if I decide to use a roller cam, do I need special length pushrods to go with my adjustable LA rocker arms?
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
The factory roller lifters are very heavy, because of this it is very difficult to keep the roller on the cam because of the faster rate unless you run some pretty high rate springs.
Chuck
Chuck
Yes, push rod length is shorter for the taller lifter.
Factory roller lifters are heavy and not suited for hi performance engines or race engines.
For general performance upgrades, the will be OK.
Factory roller lifters are heavy and not suited for hi performance engines or race engines.
For general performance upgrades, the will be OK.
'64 Cuda
Well-Known Member
What RPM range are we talking about. My engine will be cruiser type of deal but I want what I can get out of it. If I keep RPM below 6000 to 6500 (Usually well below that) will I be OK with the rollers & a single spring with a damper? Or will a dual spring be required? Right now I don't have any of the roller related valve gear (I do have adjustable rockers) no spider, lifters, etc. I"m sure it'd be cheaper to go with a flat tappet cam, but is there a roller profile that would be advantageous for me? I'm probably going to use my 340 Hipo manifolds, so I know I'm limited in what I can expect out of the motor. Hughes told me "You can never have too much lift" so I'd think that if used a roller setup I could bring the lift on that much quicker. I'm thinking of using an 833OD trans with my 3.91 rear, so I'll probably want to try for a wide, flat torque curve because the ratios in the trans are pretty widely spread. Or, I could use my close ratio trans & swap 3rd members if I ever want to go on the highway for any distance.
For a roller, Hughes recommended either an HER 1828 AL or an HER 2228 & to close the lobe seperation angle up to 107-108, or maybe 111 to 112.
For a flat tappet cam they recommended either HEH 1928 AL or an HEH 2328 AL & to close the lobe seperation angle up to around 111.
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
The stock roller setup will be fine for a street car and mild performance. You should use the spring recommended by the cam manufacturer for the cam being used. Depending on the cam a single w/damper may be sufficient.
Chuck
Chuck
Respectfully, I have to question the what it being said here with regard to stock roller roller lifters and high performance applications. All of the Mopar Performance small block magnum crate motors are using this stock roller lifter setup. The 360 is rated at 395 HP and I have heard that is underrated. The stroker 406 is rated at 435 HP. I know people sometimes question MP quality but I still think their engineers know whats what.
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
There is quite a few years of advancement from 1985 to 2005, 20 years to be exact. We are talking about the LA first generation roller stuff. We aren't just making this stuff up, it is the Mopar engine books that state the early roller stuff is only for mild builds or less.
Chuck
Chuck
Chuck, I am currently building a 408 from an 89 360. I am using the stock roller setup. When I went to buy new roller lifters the part numbers from 89 to 2004(whenever they stopped production magnums) were all that same. A friend of mine took apart his MP crate motor and the lifters were identical to the ones I am using which are stock pieces. So I wonder why the old engine books say one thing and MP does another.
Steve
Steve
340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
The engine books are MP books. They also can't be the same ones as the early rollers because early LA rollers oil thru the head and the Magnum oils thru the pushrod. Now, the new replacement lifters are most likely made like the later rollers so they work in both motors.
Chuck
Chuck
I agree with 340 mopar here. He's on it.
Also, the cheapest way out of building an engine is what MoPar will do. If they can get 1 part to cover a wide verity, they do it. It would be stupid otherwise.
Hence the reason you find the same engine and front ends and rear ends in all there vehicles. Chysler purchased alot of companys and there stuff finds there way in there. The 1 exception was jeep and the in line 6. (I'm sure other engines as well, but you do find all the Chyrsler corp engines in everything otherwise.
Also, the cheapest way out of building an engine is what MoPar will do. If they can get 1 part to cover a wide verity, they do it. It would be stupid otherwise.
Hence the reason you find the same engine and front ends and rear ends in all there vehicles. Chysler purchased alot of companys and there stuff finds there way in there. The 1 exception was jeep and the in line 6. (I'm sure other engines as well, but you do find all the Chyrsler corp engines in everything otherwise.
Most engines, even some decently preped units, will make peak power below 6000 rpm's. This includeds strokers.
The spring used for the engine is designed for the cam being used. If there is reason to believe the valves are floating early, the next spring up in line shuld be used. Another 15 -25 lbs will more than likely correct the problem.
However, a call to the cam company should actually be the first thing you do and let them know what you have and what problem is happening.
The very aggresive solids can just about mimic a roller. That's right, just about. On a street, street/strip set up, your likely not to know the difference, except in your wallet.
I myself would opt. for the roller. And make sure I squeeze ebery once of power out of it.
The 2 main differences in the cams is (1) the solid requires higher spring presure. That can be a big cave eat in it's self.
(2) the roller cam has no break in period and the generally lighter spring pressures will not flatten out a cam for any reason. Just install and go. Thats a charm for me.
Please realize that the Comp Cams XE line is not as aggresive as you can get. You can get really wacky. And then the solid cam becomes very close to the roller. (I'm not a fan of sky high spring rates. They wear out faster and could pose problems. Lord forbid a minor oiling problem happens! Flat lobe!
Yes and AMEN brother! But not all rollers take max advantage of there abilty.
The 833 OD is not avery strong unit. The wide spread is mainly in first to second gear. Reguardless, the standard 833 is a better choice for some power to be handled. The below cams recomended, can go as high as 3.55's and provided exccelent acceleration while keeping the abilty to run the Hwy.
I have 3.55's in my '79 Magnum now and the tire is a 245/60/15. Hwy travel @ 70 -75 is not a problem at all.
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