833 hold up to 500hp RB

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yellow rose and weedburner THANK YOU for trying to set some of the forum members right on the proper clutches for their needs. For you guys that think only 9 second cars need these kind of clutches just go watch a stock eliminator race. these cars run about the same horsepower as our street cars(300 to 500 hp) they run as fast as they do by putting slip in the clutch not by dead hooking them. I found 3 tenths in my car by taking clutch out and still experimenting for more. Dartnut when you get tired of breaking parts and want to go faster give one of us a shout.
 
yellow rose and weedburner THANK YOU for trying to set some of the forum members right on the proper clutches for their needs. For you guys that think only 9 second cars need these kind of clutches just go watch a stock eliminator race. these cars run about the same horsepower as our street cars(300 to 500 hp) they run as fast as they do by putting slip in the clutch not by dead hooking them. I found 3 tenths in my car by taking clutch out and still experimenting for more. Dartnut when you get tired of breaking parts and want to go faster give one of us a shout.

The strange thing here is that some people are under the impression that i break a lot of parts, where did that come from?
As a matter of fact, the only drive train related parts i have ever broken was the 8 3/4 pinion bearing/crush sleeve combo in my 489 case '69 Super Bee, the oil soaked original rubber trans mount, and the motor mounts which were old anyway. I had a complete Dana out of a rolled '68 GTX that i replaced the whole rear with and had no problems with that for the next 20 years. I installed new trans mounts and engine mounts with a torque strap and had no problems from them either for the next 20 years..........
The car even had the original 23 spline 833 in it with never a bit of trouble.
I got the clutch hot one time from doing hot laps in the time only bracket races in Spokane where i did 10 runs back to back with no cooling or stopping at all in 95 degree heat. It was so hot that it felt like stepping on a sponge, i thought i fried it, even though it didn't stink like a fried clutch. After it cooled down for 20 minutes on the drive home, it felt normal again and didn't chatter at all.
When i got home, (yes, i used to drive the car to and from the track 200 miles one way) i removed the clutch for inspection and found nothing wrong other than a light glazing on the surfaces.
It also continued to work flawlessly for the next 20 years after a light clean up.
Fast forward to today on my Dart Sport project, i installed a very ''well used'' stock clutch set up in the car until i decided what i was going to do with the car and to sort out the car as it was. I did not break anything on the car, but the clutch slipped when i tried to get on it. That's what you get when you use an old stock style clutch.
My brother bought me the Centerforce dual friction set up for Christmas.
It wasn't my first choice, but i thought i would try it being free and all, but i was skeptical.
I didn't like it at first, but after the thing was broken in as per their instructions, it really works and feels well. It's the best ''feeling'' clutch i have ever driven to date, and that is in terms of engagement being positive but not ''grabby'' at all as well as good lock up when you get on it, and proper function when changing gears at all r.p.m.'s high and low.
Frankly, it works as advertised.
Now when i build my big block 4 speed Demon, i will be rethinking the set up i go with at that time, and that's why i was curious about the set ups everyone else was using, however, because you all seem to like to keep your speed secrets to yourselves, then i (and others) will need to read between the lines and figure it out ourselves ultimately.
Thanks for your help and insight. :D
Tom.
 
Dartnut sorry for the confusion. I have no secrets here it's a Mcleod fully adjustable soft loc clutch and a Jerico 4spd. I ran a centerforce dual friction once tore the center out of the disc on launch, that clutch would shutter the car on every shift, hit way to hard. Best 60 ft. was in the 1.9 to 2.0. With the soft loc best 60 ft. is 1.49 and that's on a stock non tubed or springs moved 66 Dart with 9x26 slicks caltrac rear suspension and 5000 rpm launches. I had a 69 Bee back in the mid 70s loved that car, worst problem I had was shifting third gear with the factory console curly que shifter. Learned real quick to pom that T handle so I wouldn't slam my knuckles into the dash.
 
Dartnut sorry for the confusion. I have no secrets here it's a Mcleod fully adjustable soft loc clutch and a Jerico 4spd. I ran a centerforce dual friction once tore the center out of the disc on launch, that clutch would shutter the car on every shift, hit way to hard. Best 60 ft. was in the 1.9 to 2.0. With the soft loc best 60 ft. is 1.49 and that's on a stock non tubed or springs moved 66 Dart with 9x26 slicks caltrac rear suspension and 5000 rpm launches. I had a 69 Bee back in the mid 70s loved that car, worst problem I had was shifting third gear with the factory console curly que shifter. Learned real quick to pom that T handle so I wouldn't slam my knuckles into the dash.

Thank you for your info, finally a set up i can sink my teeth into for my future (and much more aggressive) build.
My current build is very mild compared to your set up, so the Centerforce dual friction is working out well for me in this one.
 
I'm just a streeter, and I really like my Centerforce pp. I did not like the CFII disc,(it was way too hard on parts), and I swapped it out pretty quick, for a full organic.I solved the Electric sw on/off type engagement by shimming the pp off the flywheel some. Yes the flyweights sometimes stick at low rpm, but a quick neutral-blip usually clears 'em up.I like a little slip below 2800.It's nicer in traffic, where I spend a lot of time.It's dead smooth once the fly-weights are moving, and has hung together for 10 or more years.
The discs I have been using,on the otherhand,do not last very long,usually spitting out the springs.
I shift at up to 7200 pretty regularly, in my 367 cuber.
Yeah I'm older(62) but certainly not feeble.I prefer the diaphragm for it's ease of modulation.
I got no bad comments about the CF pp.
 
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I ran a Centerforce clutch behind a 625hp Dart with a 23 spline for a few years. Never broke anything and the clutch worked good. Then when we stepped up the power to 760hp, I put a McLeod RXT Ceramic twin disc clutch in with the 18 spline trans. I pounded on that set up on the street and track for 3 years and never broke anything. 7,000rpm launches at the track with slicks (1.40 60'). Do not waste your time with the McLeod RST twin disc clutch. I made 2 passes at the track and it glazed and hot spotted. Good luck with your car.
 
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