dave ellis
Well-Known Member
Anyone have problems with synthetic lube in 833 overdrive?
833 syncros
- Thread starter dave ellis
- Start date
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Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I heard you shouldn't run all synthetic more like 50/50 but I can't remember 
(might be noisy?) I used to run Redline and standard gear oil years back now just run standard gear oil. I believe it helps with shifting in colder weather, but my car sits all winter.
I'm sure someone will chime in and correct me. lol
Read this thread.
What fluid for a 4-speed trans?
(might be noisy?) I used to run Redline and standard gear oil years back now just run standard gear oil. I believe it helps with shifting in colder weather, but my car sits all winter.I'm sure someone will chime in and correct me. lol
Read this thread.
What fluid for a 4-speed trans?
Kendog 170
Let the boy go !
I copied this page from thread above. Relates to your question.
For my personal testing:
>The best to use in terms of being able to shift fast is ATF (DextronII)
>The oil that will help your cluster pin to last the longest and the gears to not wear, is any EP oil, the thicker the Better.
But good luck trying to shift with 140 in it when it's 40 below; but you can use it in summer.
>However, the brass synchronizer rings in the A833 are not designed like in a Chevy or a Ford. They are not machined for oil drainage, so an A833 trans with EP oil in will take either more effort or take longer, to synchronize, or both. This goes double for the Super-Wide-Ratio A833ods.
You could try to use a multi viscosity like 85/115 in an attempt to cover both summer and winter, but again, it's still a slow-shifting E/P fluid. If yur not into winding yur engine up to redline and yanking on the stick with all yur might, what fluid you run as good as makes no difference.
Now having said all that, I used to run 100% ATF, summer or winter, and was very happy with the shifting characteristics. However, I noticed my cluster pin was wearing a little more rapidly than I wanted it to, and switched to 50/50, that is to say, half ATF and half 85W90 EP oil or MT90. That about stopped the pin-wear.
But the shifting was slowed down.
As to synthetics;
If you install a full synthetic,
Firstly it must be compatible for the manual trans, do not install any synthetic that has friction modifiers in it designed for a Limited Slip Differential.
Secondly, be prepared to flush it out, if you get gear clash (see note-1 below)
Note-1
One day I had the bright idea to see what happens to my shifting with a Full-synthetic. As I suspected it would; I got a lotta gear clash and really slow shifting at hi rpms.
So I took the trans down and apart. To cure the Gear clash, I cut the clutch teeth and sliders to make it a street "slick-shift." While it was apart I rearranged the brass, and deglazed the brake cones, then assembled it and roadtested it.
So ok that solved the shifting clash at highrpm. But it was still slow shifting. (with the synthetic)
So I took it down again, and hand-machined some drainage channels on the face of the cones, thinking that would get rid of the oil faster. Well, I couldn't notice it getting any better, so I drained it all and put the 50/50 back in that I had earlier drained out.
BadaBoom! now it was shifting pretty doggonenice.
So I took it down and apart one more time, and carefully washed all that full-synthetic out, one piece atta time . Then reassembled it, installed fresh 50/50, and that box now shifted so slick, it was unbelievable.
Around town, I can easily overpower the brass, and just slam it into the next gear. But granny shifting works too. And shifting at 7000/7200 is so sweet, and so fast, which for an A833 is almost unheard of.
The wear on the cluster-pin is as good as unchanging. and as for wear on the brass, well, I got 80,000miles or so on Second gear before it started complaining during granny-shifting.
There;
pick your poison.
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
JoinedJan 19, 2014Messages24,322Reaction score11,644LocationSouth-Central Manitoba,Canada, 900ftelevationI'm not gonna read every post to see what all has already been mentioned....
For my personal testing:
>The best to use in terms of being able to shift fast is ATF (DextronII)
>The oil that will help your cluster pin to last the longest and the gears to not wear, is any EP oil, the thicker the Better.
But good luck trying to shift with 140 in it when it's 40 below; but you can use it in summer.
>However, the brass synchronizer rings in the A833 are not designed like in a Chevy or a Ford. They are not machined for oil drainage, so an A833 trans with EP oil in will take either more effort or take longer, to synchronize, or both. This goes double for the Super-Wide-Ratio A833ods.
You could try to use a multi viscosity like 85/115 in an attempt to cover both summer and winter, but again, it's still a slow-shifting E/P fluid. If yur not into winding yur engine up to redline and yanking on the stick with all yur might, what fluid you run as good as makes no difference.
Now having said all that, I used to run 100% ATF, summer or winter, and was very happy with the shifting characteristics. However, I noticed my cluster pin was wearing a little more rapidly than I wanted it to, and switched to 50/50, that is to say, half ATF and half 85W90 EP oil or MT90. That about stopped the pin-wear.
But the shifting was slowed down.
As to synthetics;
If you install a full synthetic,
Firstly it must be compatible for the manual trans, do not install any synthetic that has friction modifiers in it designed for a Limited Slip Differential.
Secondly, be prepared to flush it out, if you get gear clash (see note-1 below)
Note-1
One day I had the bright idea to see what happens to my shifting with a Full-synthetic. As I suspected it would; I got a lotta gear clash and really slow shifting at hi rpms.
So I took the trans down and apart. To cure the Gear clash, I cut the clutch teeth and sliders to make it a street "slick-shift." While it was apart I rearranged the brass, and deglazed the brake cones, then assembled it and roadtested it.
So ok that solved the shifting clash at highrpm. But it was still slow shifting. (with the synthetic)
So I took it down again, and hand-machined some drainage channels on the face of the cones, thinking that would get rid of the oil faster. Well, I couldn't notice it getting any better, so I drained it all and put the 50/50 back in that I had earlier drained out.
BadaBoom! now it was shifting pretty doggonenice.
So I took it down and apart one more time, and carefully washed all that full-synthetic out, one piece atta time . Then reassembled it, installed fresh 50/50, and that box now shifted so slick, it was unbelievable.
Around town, I can easily overpower the brass, and just slam it into the next gear. But granny shifting works too. And shifting at 7000/7200 is so sweet, and so fast, which for an A833 is almost unheard of.
The wear on the cluster-pin is as good as unchanging. and as for wear on the brass, well, I got 80,000miles or so on Second gear before it started complaining during granny-shifting.
There;
pick your poison.
For what it's worth- when I bought the cuda new in '68 I thought the shifting was poor so I swapped out the 90w for Mopar's fish oil (still have some). Huge improvement! Today I use Redline with good results. You should read some of Redline's comments about some oils effect on syncros.
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