904 Help with shift points.

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PhillH

PhillH

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I know I've been asking alot of questions, I hope people aren't getting frustrated with me.
But I've really been able to tackle alot of tasks asking questions, and being referred to other forms that spell it out.
So this time, I have a 71 Scamp with a 360 and 904, I built the 360 but the 904 came with the car, I converted the trans with the B&M flex plate and that worked fantastic. I installed the Bouchillion kick down kit. I was hoping someone had this same setup and could tell me how to get the tranny to hold the gears a little longer. I was told and am pretty sure the tranny already has a B&M shift improver kit in it. The shifts are nice and firm, but I'd like it to hold them a while longer, if I'm not on the gas pretty hard it shifts way to early.
 
You can order a governor kit that has the shift points right where you want them.
Alternatively, you can also pull the governor you have and lighten the valves so it shifts later.

A&A Trans has the kits for specific RPM shifts.
Keep in mind that the RPM ratings they show are for a full throttle shift and would be earlier if not a full throttle.
Also the 904 and 727 kits are the same part numbers so they can be used in either trans.
http://www.aandatrans.com/Departments/Chrysler-727-Trans/Governor-Kits.aspx

Then if the 1-2 and the 2-3 are substantially different you need to change shift springs inside the valve body.

Also here is the full article on how to do it.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/transm...creasing-shift-speeds-on-the-727-torqueflite/
 

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I don't feel real comfortable parts parts out and grinding them, I was hoping for something bolt-on.
 
Phil, when you adjusted the cable did you do it so it pulls the trans kickdown lever all the way back when the carb throttle is wide open? If not do that and it'll raise the shift points. If you have it adjusted this way you'll need the higher rpm governor kit that Greg mentioned that A&A sells. They have several kits ranging from shifting at 5k wide open to 6k wide open in 200 rpm increments. They also raise the low speed shift points accordingly
 
Is the VB modified? If the throttle valve was cut down, put a full length stock one back in and adjust away. Where do you want it to shift at?

Mine shifts right around 6K on 1/2 and 2/3 so where do you want yours to shift. My Governor weight is still oem. I may change the Gov weight to get the shift points higher.
I'm also running the Bouchillion kick down kit. Full throttle, the kickdown lever is fully stroked.
 
I need to get under there and check that, thinking about it now I adjusted at the top, I'll get back on this, thanks for reminding me.
 
It's the torque input; best way to set shift points is with your right hand... On the lever. Unless you like to get covered in red oil and money several times to get it perfect...
 
PoisonDart74 said:
Best way to set shift points is with your right hand... On the lever. Unless you like to get covered in red oil several times to get it perfect.
Click to expand...

Agreed, but it sure is nice to have an auto that shifts like you would do it manually anyway. :D
 
^Hell yeah! ...Until you need it to shift civil driving on the street. Or at least that's what I keep telling myself when I inquire on what the best of both worlds would be... :)
 
That did it !!! There was 1/4 inch play left in it at the trans, adjusted it and now it shifts great! Like a normal trans is supposed to. AWESOME.
 
It definitely has a shift kit in it that the previous owner said was there, nice firm shifts.
one thing though, and I'll wait to see if this is still an issue tomorrow, I'm taking it to work in the morning and that will be the first ride over 5 miles on the new engine. It almost seems as if it has a lockup converter, sometimes if I was on the gas real light it would shift into 3rd, then a second later felt just like a lock-up converter locking. Hopefully it was just the cable too loose.
 
That;s how mine works, if your real light on the gas it will shift into 3rd at 15mph. Just how it works man, you've got to get dirty if you want it to shift real high automatically. Then it will be racing and pacing an a pain in the *** in the street.

Set the cable so at WOT there is about 1/16" worth of play when you pull on it FIRMLY. Be done with it.


This is why I have a B&M pro-matic. It's like playing an old game of pac-man!
 
shiffing into 3rd at 15mph sucks. Sorry, it shouldn't shift that early under light throttle, if its a shift kit work a crap, and setup right. You can have the best of both, its not that hard.

Did you get the WOT shift points you were hoping for?
 
FredS said:
shiffing into 3rd at 15mph sucks. Sorry, it shouldn't shift that early under light throttle, if its a shift kit work a crap, and setup right. You can have the best of both, its not that hard.

Did you get the WOT shift points you were hoping for?
Click to expand...

Agreed, as under normal light throttle granny driving I get the 1-2 shift at about 15 and the 2-3 at about 30.
That goes up as throttle increases just like it should and a 1-2 shift is there so quick it's ridiculous but not too hard (just quick and firm) , but I need to mod the governor still so it holds a gear longer if I'm above 3/4 throttle.
It shifts too early at WOT for me the way it is right now.
 
TrailBeast said:
Agreed, as under normal light throttle granny driving I get the 1-2 shift at about 15 and the 2-3 at about 30.
That goes up as throttle increases just like it should and a 1-2 shift is there so quick it's ridiculous but not too hard (just quick and firm) , but I need to mod the governor still so it holds a gear longer if I'm above 3/4 throttle.
It shifts too early at WOT for me the way it is right now.
Click to expand...

The same for me, it's better/normal now, but I still don't like it. Even if I hold it wide open it still shifts to third to early. And it seems under certain conditions I would like it to shift down to second and I'm giving it some gas, nothing, nothing, give it more gas, nothing, give it more and then bang it hits first gear!
 
Adjusting the regulator spring inside (the one that uses the allen wrench) to allow about 5/16" between the cage and the threaded plate that compresses the spring usually will get you what you want. Sometimes you have to add a little more pressure to the spring....
Some of the shift kits include a new spring for this location that may require a different adjustment dimension.
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