904 issue in my new Duster

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GoodysGotaCuda

Mr. Goody
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Boughta $800 duster i plan on driving daily. Pulled the pan to change the fluid (last registered in 1986...been sitting a longgg time) and anyway, Pulled the pan off my duster and i believe it is off of the Low/Reverse band (whichever band is closest to the motor). Anyway the piece of metal that connects the band to the apply linkage is sitting in the bottom of the pan

I'm sure the textbook method on fixing this is 'rebuild it'. but thats not really an option just yet. Is it possible to put that piece of metal back in at the adjuster/band, adjust the band, put the pan on and go? What's the likelyness that, that would work out?

Thanks.
-Mike :wack:
 
I think you are talking about the 2nd gear (front) band.

Can you take a picture or two so I can see what we are dealing with here?
 
That is your Low/Reverse (rear) band... the band strut is the piece that fell out. You should be able to put the strut back in and adjust the lever (the spec usually involves tightening the adjuster to 72 inch pounds then backing off 3.5-4 turns... check your particular application!) This doesn't explain why the strut fell out? Anyway, stranger things have happened...

I used to perform a recall on the 4 speed versions of these transmissions... the procedure included removing and replacing the band lever and strut with the transmission in the vehicle... so there is no reason why you can't reassemble yours... after you reassemble and adjust the band lever assembly, check for reverse operation and engine braking in manual low... if you've got that, then you lucked out!
 
:thumblef:
Porter said:
That is your Low/Reverse (rear) band... the band strut is the piece that fell out. You should be able to put the strut back in and adjust the lever (the spec usually involves tightening the adjuster to 72 inch pounds then backing off 3.5-4 turns... check your particular application!) This doesn't explain why the strut fell out? Anyway, stranger things have happened...

I used to perform a recall on the 4 speed versions of these transmissions... the procedure included removing and replacing the band lever and strut with the transmission in the vehicle... so there is no reason why you can't reassemble yours... after you reassemble and adjust the band lever assembly, check for reverse operation and engine braking in manual low... if you've got that, then you lucked out!
Click to expand...


Sounds good to me. I may just have to go pickup a In/lb torque wrench to make sure its right. Does anyone have a diagram of exactly how that band lever attaches to the band itself? I have a TF 727 Handbook, is it the same as a 727?

Thanks! :thumblef:
 
The rear band and strut assembly in a 727/904 are the same except for physical size.
 
Also, does the valve body need to be removed to hook this band back up?



And instead of making a new thread on a shift kit, ill add to this thread. This car will be a daily driver, its a slant six. I'm not looking for any performance addition, however I would like to cut-down on the sloppy shifts, excessive heat, and wear that the stock valve body offers. Mancini Racing is selling this Hurst Shift Kit for $20 off what it usually was. Has anyone heard of bad things when using this kit?

http://store.yahoo.com/chucker54/huhokit.html

Thanks,
-Mike
 
You should be able to replace and adjust the rear band without removing the valve body.

As far as a shift kit goes... for stock to mild perfomrance applications, a properly adjusted valve body is your best compromise between performance and good driveability. In your application, if I were going to modify the valve body, I would go with a "shift improver" kit over a full shift kit. The improver kit usually only consists of a modified spacer plate (they usually just drill out the front servo/clutch apply orifice) and accumulator spring for a harsher shift.

Furthermore, when manufacturers of shift kits advertize that you get less wear, heat, and sloppiness, they are basing that solely on the fact that shift kits make the clutches engage faster... reducing heat, wear, and sloppiness. What they don't tell you is that it increases the shock on your hard parts... planetaries, splines, roller clutch. A properly adjusted automatic transmission in a stock application should not have any of these concerns.
 
Porter said:
You should be able to replace and adjust the rear band without removing the valve body.

As far as a shift kit goes... for stock to mild perfomrance applications, a properly adjusted valve body is your best compromise between performance and good driveability. In your application, if I were going to modify the valve body, I would go with a "shift improver" kit over a full shift kit. The improver kit usually only consists of a modified spacer plate (they usually just drill out the front servo/clutch apply orifice) and accumulator spring for a harsher shift.

Furthermore, when manufacturers of shift kits advertize that you get less wear, heat, and sloppiness, they are basing that solely on the fact that shift kits make the clutches engage faster... reducing heat, wear, and sloppiness. What they don't tell you is that it increases the shock on your hard parts... planetaries, splines, roller clutch. A properly adjusted automatic transmission in a stock application should not have any of these concerns.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks, do you have a picture of how that band/adj is supposed to look properly installed? Just with the band sliding around on the drum, i want to make sure its properly in there.

And as far as adjusting the valve body, how can i do that? Any links?

Thanks guys!
 
Sorry, I don't have any pictures... I could probably round some up at work on monday.
The adjustments and torque values are different between a 904 and a 727, so I would pick up a haynes or chilton manual for the exact procedure.

As far as adjusting the transmission, (while I had the pan off) I would adjust the rear band to specs, then I would re-torque all of the valve body bolts to spec., adjust the front band to spec, replace the filter and pan, fill the trans with fluid, adjust the kickdown linkage and test drive.

After the trans is operational, connect a line pressure gauge to the accumulator test port on the right side of the transmission. Whith the rear wheels off the ground, disconnect the kickdown linkage and start the engine. In drive you should have around 60 psi in drive and moving the kickdown linkage to the full rearward position, pressure should increase to about 95-100 psi. If it does, you are o.k. If it does not, there are two adjustments you can make on the valve body, line pressure and throttle pressure. These are the two hex screws on the side of the transmission right beside the P/N switch. To accurately adjust line pressure beyond the "baseline" adjustment outlined in the service manual, turn the hex screw for line pressure (the one with the fat spring) one full turn for every 1.5 psi... clockwise to decrease pressure... counterclockwise to increase. After line pressure is adjusted, there is a special gauge tool for setting throttle pressure... I've got one at work... I could send you the specs on monday.
 
Ok well i may have to mess with the line pressure at another time. If someone could get me a couple pictures on how that band/adjustment is installed i'd appriciate it.

thanks!
 
Upon further investigation...its concluded that im screwed. My $800 car that i hoped i could just get running and drive, needs a trans rebuild...definately not expected.

2427756-100_0271.jpg
 
Ok .. I was confused when you said the band closest to the motor. That would be the 2nd gear band.

Bummer to see your rear band broke. I knew something would be broke in there. The rear band (or front for that matter) apply / anchoring systems typically don't just "fall out."

Hate to make light of the situation, but at least you'll learn how to rebuild the 904 / 727 now.

Good luck! Feel free to post up questions here, or e-mail me if you have any questions!
 
Duster346 said:
Ok .. I was confused when you said the band closest to the motor. That would be the 2nd gear band.

Bummer to see your rear band broke. I knew something would be broke in there. The rear band (or front for that matter) apply / anchoring systems typically don't just "fall out."

Hate to make light of the situation, but at least you'll learn how to rebuild the 904 / 727 now.

Good luck! Feel free to post up questions here, or e-mail me if you have any questions!
Click to expand...

Apparently that style of adjustment for the low/reverse band is only in Slant 904s.

Which rebuild kit do you recommend? Also the style of clutches/bands?

Thanks
-Mike
 
Which rebuild kit do you recommend? Also the style of clutches?
Click to expand...

Mike,

The stock type clutches and bands will work fine behind your /6. As for O/H kits they are all about the same, just make sure you get a complete kit. Some "master" "premium" or "deluxe" O/H kits will come with a front band. You'll need to order the rear band seperate, most likely.

Hope this helps ....

Chris Andrews
 
Duster346 said:
Mike,

The stock type clutches and bands will work fine behind your /6. As for O/H kits they are all about the same, just make sure you get a complete kit. Some "master" "premium" or "deluxe" O/H kits will come with a front band. You'll need to order the rear band seperate, most likely.

Hope this helps ....

Chris Andrews
Click to expand...


Ok sounds good. I think i will use a TranStar rebuild kit, and a TransGO TF-1 shift kit. I've heard good things about both.

Thanks! :thumblef:
 
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