Have a rebuilt 904 that doesn't want to shift to drive. Using a Lokar cable. Opened throttle all the way and pulled cable tight before locking down. So do I need to allow some slop in cable or am I screwed.
904 no drive
- Thread starter ed1946
- Start date
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Projectile Dart
Well-Known Member
If I am understanding you correctly, you used a lokar throttle cable and now your 904 won't enter drive? Was it operating correctly before installing the cable
Where is your shifter located? Column or floor?
Where is your shifter located? Column or floor?
New trans, column shift, Lokar for kickdown.
Plymouth 65
I'll be in the shop
Is your column linkage installed/adjusted properly? 65'
Park and reverse work ok and 1 and 2 work manually so I would say yes
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a valve body problem.
Back off the cable some, then see where it shifts at. Are the other shifts delayed. Kim
Topless69
Well-Known Member
Try readjusting your linkage and cable so that the shifter will go into park and drive, then check to see if it goes in the other gears. It sounds like an adjustment issue.
tried loosening cable, didn't seem to matter. It goes into 2nd around 15 but never wants to go to 3rd. I'm kinda agreeing it may be valve body. Thats a lot easier to change than trans.
So it doesn’t go to what seems like it’s in neutral even when u let off the gas? Stays in 2nd? Was the governor apart? Did u build it or someone else. Kim
Topless69
Well-Known Member
I thought all this time you were talking about the shifter, not the trans, Doh!
Someone else rebuilt. It shifts form 1 to 2 and stays there no matter how fast you go.
Likely the valve body was assembled incorrectly. The Chrysler manual will provide shift speeds for 1-2 and 2-3 for stock engines. The kickdown cable can be adjusted to raise or lower shift points but will not prevent a no-shift to 3rd. If the cable was too tight, then the 1-2 shift would occur at higher speed and likely be pretty harsh. Nope, likely the VB is your culprit.
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Can you vary the 1-2 shift by the gas pedal, to cause the shift to come in earlier or later in roadspeed?
If yes, then BOTH the throttle-pressure and the governor are working.
To get Third gear (Drive), the Fwd clutch and the Hi clutch need to be working, AND the Second gear band has to release.
Since you have First gear, the Forward clutch is working. AND the KD-Band is releasing.
Since you have reverse, the Hi-clutch is working, as is the L/R band.
Therefore, it would seem that the mechanicals of the trans are all working.
That only leaves four possibilities;
1) manual valve not indexing properly
2) throttle pressure set too high and or in conjunction with the KD pressure set too high
3) Governor not working
4) 2-3 shift valve not working
As for #1, this can be checked from outside the trans.
As for #2, You can try disconnecting the KD completely, and this should cause the trans to very quickly upshift two times. If it does not, the Pan will have to come off.
As for #3, the tailhouse will need to come off unless you can see the governor thru the Speed-O hole with a mirror or boroscope
As for #4, the VB needs to come down
It should be noted that you can install a pressure gauge on the governor circuit and roadtest the car, which should then show a linear rise in pressure with driveshaft rpm/roadspeed.
If yes, then BOTH the throttle-pressure and the governor are working.
To get Third gear (Drive), the Fwd clutch and the Hi clutch need to be working, AND the Second gear band has to release.
Since you have First gear, the Forward clutch is working. AND the KD-Band is releasing.
Since you have reverse, the Hi-clutch is working, as is the L/R band.
Therefore, it would seem that the mechanicals of the trans are all working.
That only leaves four possibilities;
1) manual valve not indexing properly
2) throttle pressure set too high and or in conjunction with the KD pressure set too high
3) Governor not working
4) 2-3 shift valve not working
As for #1, this can be checked from outside the trans.
As for #2, You can try disconnecting the KD completely, and this should cause the trans to very quickly upshift two times. If it does not, the Pan will have to come off.
As for #3, the tailhouse will need to come off unless you can see the governor thru the Speed-O hole with a mirror or boroscope
As for #4, the VB needs to come down
It should be noted that you can install a pressure gauge on the governor circuit and roadtest the car, which should then show a linear rise in pressure with driveshaft rpm/roadspeed.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
The governor affects both the 1-2 and the 2-3 shift. So..with no 2-3 whatsoever, but do have a 1-2; that leaves vb. But so that we all understand; please clarify when you get a 1-2 shift. Just driving normally in "D"? Just driving normally in "2"? Only get a 1-2 shift when moving the lever from 1 to 2? And at what speed? Might just be something as mentioned about the 2-3 shift valve, but that's unusual. But who knows what somebody might have done inside of a valve body to cause this condition; might be a comedy of errors. Study exploded views.
I'm going to adjust the kickdown band tomorrow and see what that does.
Why not take it to the builder and let him check it. As soon as u lay a finger on it there won’t be any warranty. Kim
I'm talking to him, thats why I'm trying adjustment
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Time to find a new builder...
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