96 Ram 4x4??

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68GTconvert

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I am looking at a 96 Ram 4x4 extra cab 5.9. It looks pretty clean with 100k miles. The guy wants 4k. I am thinking of offering around 3k. I know these 5.9's crack heads but how do I check that? I will look for water in the oil. Any other things I should check for? Thanks
 
only way to check for the crack is pressure test or look for milk shake if there on the truck, knock on wood my 96 4x4 has 3 hundred thousand miles on it and never had the heads off or intake off to check the plenum plate or the heads for cracks and i drive it every day
 
check for codes pretty sure you switch the key to the "on/off" positions like 3 times and the codes will display in the odometer.. $3,000 sounds fair to me unless it's SUPER clean and needs nothing but gas to drive.. if it has miss fire codes (PO30X-(1-8 where the "X" is(signifies the cyl. number) and the tune up is known good -it MIGHT have a cracked head..

My 99 Durango 360 (just rolled 220k miles though) has a cyl. 5 miss fire and I think it's from a cracked head- still drivable and don't use coolant or anything but it has a noticeable thump like a aftermarket camshaft at idle and occasionally through's the CEL (which I keep my tuner in the truck to clear them..)

Get a 4" dia. cold air intake, superchip tuner, and a name brand single exit cat back and you'll love the truck even more Good luck and post pics if you pick it up!
 
check for codes pretty sure you switch the key to the "on/off" positions like 3 times and the codes will display in the odometer.. $3,000 sounds fair to me unless it's SUPER clean and needs nothing but gas to drive.. if it has miss fire codes (PO30X-(1-8 where the "X" is(signifies the cyl. number) and the tune up is known good -it MIGHT have a cracked head..

My 99 Durango 360 (just rolled 220k miles though) has a cyl. 5 miss fire and I think it's from a cracked head- still drivable and don't use coolant or anything but it has a noticeable thump like a aftermarket camshaft at idle and occasionally through's the CEL (which I keep my tuner in the truck to clear them..)

Get a 4" dia. cold air intake, superchip tuner, and a name brand single exit cat back and you'll love the truck even more Good luck and post pics if you pick it up!

Thanks for the info. This is really helpful. I guess hundred thousand miles isn't bad.
 
If it has the A-518 trans. they can be troublesome. I rebuilt the one in my 97 at around 100,000 miles, internal seal was leaking causing it not to shift when it got hot.
 
4,000 for a 1996? I'd tell him to put the crack pipe down and make a reasonable offer of maybe $2500 if its super clean

I have the chance to by a southern US truck (1999) with a 360, 4x4 and plow to go with it; plow was only on for a year, and has 4 new tires for $2500 there's better deals around then that
 
the codes doesnt read on the odometer on a 96 you have a regular obd port and a check engine light
 
the codes doesnt read on the odometer on a 96 you have a regular obd port and a check engine light

my 2005 neon will read it on the odometer, turn key on/off 4 times ending in on, mileage will disappear and "P" codes will start reading
 
I had a '96 RAM 2wd with a 318. Got over 30 MPH on a Canadian gallon. Fantastic truck. Cracked heads took out the motor during a haul from a MX race. No rust. Sold it as scrap.

4 K is FAR too much..it is 17 years old...you can buy a far newer one for those clams..

Grassy
 
Check the tranny fluid take it for a ride and make sure it shifts correctly.
 
check for codes pretty sure you switch the key to the "on/off" positions like 3 times and the codes will display in the odometer.. $3,000 sounds fair to me unless it's SUPER clean and needs nothing but gas to drive.. if it has miss fire codes (PO30X-(1-8 where the "X" is(signifies the cyl. number) and the tune up is known good -it MIGHT have a cracked head..

My 99 Durango 360 (just rolled 220k miles though) has a cyl. 5 miss fire and I think it's from a cracked head- still drivable and don't use coolant or anything but it has a noticeable thump like a aftermarket camshaft at idle and occasionally through's the CEL (which I keep my tuner in the truck to clear them..)

Get a 4" dia. cold air intake, superchip tuner, and a name brand single exit cat back and you'll love the truck even more Good luck and post pics if you pick it up!

If a person is paying for exhaust, why wouldn't you spend a little bit more for true duals? If just swapping the muffler, cool. Otherwise, seems like a waste to me IMO
 
trans and rear end noise are the big ticket items make sure those are in good shape otherwise there a great truck i had my 94 ram 4x4 360 for 14 years just sold it a few years back loved that truck never let me down ive got a haynes manual id sell ya if you get the truck i fixed everything on the truck myself all pretty easy stuff as far as performance upgrades i did a flowmaster exhaust drop in k&n and a mopar perf ecu picked up some power and some mpg and questions let me know
 
single exhaust is cheaper.. I have $250 into my single exhaust.. dynomax pipes and a Magnaflow muffler all from Summit.. mandrel bent.. it's all you need in a tow vehicle/daily driver and the spare tire can still stay under the bed

the Mopar Perf. ECU's are not only hard to find cause they need to be year/eng/trans/ specific a tuner is a better idea and you'll see more power, and be able to check/clear codes as well as change the speedo for different tires heights I paid $150 shipped for mine used

FYI I paid $1000 for my Durango and put $1500 into it so far..
 
check for codes pretty sure you switch the key to the "on/off" positions like 3 times and the codes will display in the odometer.. $3,000 sounds fair to me unless it's SUPER clean and needs nothing but gas to drive.. if it has miss fire codes (PO30X-(1-8 where the "X" is(signifies the cyl. number) and the tune up is known good -it MIGHT have a cracked head..

My 99 Durango 360 (just rolled 220k miles though) has a cyl. 5 miss fire and I think it's from a cracked head- still drivable and don't use coolant or anything but it has a noticeable thump like a aftermarket camshaft at idle and occasionally through's the CEL (which I keep my tuner in the truck to clear them..)

Get a 4" dia. cold air intake, superchip tuner, and a name brand single exit cat back and you'll love the truck even more Good luck and post pics if you pick it up!
the 5.2 and 5.9 also with run with a thump like big cam and 5,6,7,or 8 miss fire dtc with blown lower intake gasket,also oil fouls the plugs
 
the 5.2 and 5.9 also with run with a thump like big cam and 5,6,7,or 8 miss fire dtc with blown lower intake gasket,also oil fouls the plugs

You kind of lost me. What should I be looking for tomorrow? I am going to do the normal checks foe milky oil and a test drive. I cant check for codes i guess.
 
Well my buddy bought my pathfinder this morning for $1400 and I went and bought the Ram. I checked all the fluids and they looked good, no milk and oil in trans and engine was nice and clean. It has brand new tires and brand new brakes including calipers and rotors, new battery, nice alpine stereo. It has all the hooks up to tow. I took it up a very steep freeway grade with the ac blowing cold and it shifts good and held 80 mph no problem with no cooling problems. Paid 3k probably a bit too much but I am happy. Thanks for all the help.
 
1996 v8 all had 46re trans.break down of 46re means,4= 4 forward gears,6= strength on 1 to 6 scale.,r= rear or 4x4, e= electronic govenor.,see i did learn some thing 17 years as chrysler dealer tech.

Totally off subject but I thought the strength scale was from 1-10, seeing as they had the 47RH, 47RE, then 48RE, and now 68RFE that followed the same break down guidelines.
 
So I noticed the light doesn't come on when I put it in 4x4. I can hear it engage but no light. I have read it is probably the vacuum line clogged or leaking. I have to check that. Other then that it runs pretty good and shifts smoothly. Going to take it dirt biking this weekend so it will be a good test b/c it is a 4 hour drive up there. Wish me luck. Ha!
 

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