9in help

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1973dartswinger

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Hey all.
Found a speedway fabricated ford 9 in for a good price I might not be able to turn away. The car I’m looking to
Put it into as a 73 swinger. The model of the axle is the 56in version as show in this link.

Speedway Ford 9 Inch Rear End Housing Kit with Axles, 56 Inch

Being that I’m not sure on how the 9 inch goes together with axles and brakes I’m not sure around how wide the finished 9 In rear would be. I know the factory 8 3/4 is around 57 inches drum to drum. But is that front of drum or rear of drum. Just trying to see if someone with experience on this would be able to let me know
If this rear would be way to wide fully assembled or if I could make it work.
Thanks a lot !
 
Typically it is face of axle flange to face of axle flange. Drums only add like 1/4” to length 1/8” per drum.

Pretty decent price- I have no idea what the chuck goes for. Most run disk brakes with 9” I believe.
 
You need to determine WHERE the 57" is measured from. If it's housing flange to flange, it's too wide. If it's axle flange to flange, I'm givin a green light.
 
in the "additional specs":

Total wheel-to-wheel mounting surface width is 56" (from hub-to-hub).
Click to expand...

so as long as the axle flange cup (?) matches whatever wheel register you wanna run, should be ready to rip
 
I see "flange to flange", not "hub to hub". So you need to know for sure what "flange" they're talking about. There's the axle flange and the housing flange.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I see "flange to flange", not "hub to hub". So you need to know for sure what "flange" they're talking about. There's the axle flange and the housing flange.
Click to expand...

from the site:

Screen Shot 2023-11-13 at 8.31.14 PM.png
 
RustyRatRod said:
Thanks. My blind *** missed it. I would still call and verify. That's better than gettin one too wide.
Click to expand...
it was kinda buried in there. i can't understand why they don't just list key specs with a diagram.

but 100% on calling to verify, especially if you're running tight tolerances on the wheel fitment.
 
1973dartswinger said:
Awesome totally missed that. I’m definitely going to call them today and see what they say. Appreciate all the help! Thanks a lot. Guy in market place got the housing axles and center section for a little more than $1000.
Click to expand...
that's not a bad deal, even if you have to move the perches.

but take your measuring tape and double check before you hand over the cash.
 
1973dartswinger said:
Awesome totally missed that. I’m definitely going to call them today and see what they say. Appreciate all the help! Thanks a lot. Guy in market place got the housing axles and center section for a little more than $1000.
Click to expand...
I agree, it's a good deal and make sure of the measurement. The 9" is stronger than an 8 3/4, despite what some Mopar faithful believe. It's also every bit as strong as the Dana 60 and arguably stronger, properly equipped.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The 9" is stronger than an 8 3/4, despite what some Mopar faithful believe. It's also every bit as strong as the Dana 60 and arguably stronger, properly equipped.
Click to expand...
i see you woke up today and chose violence.
 
I have this exact axle in my duster. The width is 56” flange to flange which is a little over an inch narrower than a factory 8 3/4.

First off, speedway’s description is wrong. It is not a fabricated housing. The 2nd picture shows you what it should look like. I ended up not using the fabricated housing in the pic because it’s 54” flange to flange.

Let me know if you have any questions. I built mine from end to end several times so I’m pretty sure I have all the answers…. lol

IMG_1044.jpeg


IMG_0313.jpeg


IMG_0318.jpeg
 
-Boosted- said:
I have this exact axle in my duster. The width is 56” flange to flange which is a little over an inch narrower than a factory 8 3/4.

First off, speedway’s description is wrong. It is not a fabricated housing. The 2nd picture shows you what it should look like. I ended up not using the fabricated housing in the pic because it’s 54” flange to flange.

Let me know if you have any questions. I built mine from end to end several times so I’m pretty sure I have all the answers…. lol

View attachment 1716166593

View attachment 1716166594

View attachment 1716166595
Click to expand...
My main concern was going to be the fitment. I’d had to spend a ton of money and it not go in. I wasn’t sure if the housing was 56 or wheel mounting to wheel mounting completed is 56 inches. Unfortunately the one I found on Facebook sold but after picking that axle and the gears I’d want the total from speedway comes to about $2000 to my door. Originally I was going to go with an 8.8 just because of cost but now thinking if this set up fits, spending more money might be worth it. The front end is already being converted to Chevy bolt pattern because I’m running Camaro Brembo brakes and corvette rotors, and this set up allows me to have the same bolt pattern in the rear with out drilling axles. My thought process is the time saved cleaning an 8.8 cutting it welding it changing bolt pattern and such, spending more money to get something that will take less time to get ready to go in the car might be 100% worth it. From your experience, with the axle that I linked before, any issues you could warn about or anything you would have done differently? Thanks. I’d like to learn everything possible before pulling the trigger.
 
1973dartswinger said:
My main concern was going to be the fitment. I’d had to spend a ton of money and it not go in. I wasn’t sure if the housing was 56 or wheel mounting to wheel mounting completed is 56 inches. Unfortunately the one I found on Facebook sold but after picking that axle and the gears I’d want the total from speedway comes to about $2000 to my door. Originally I was going to go with an 8.8 just because of cost but now thinking if this set up fits, spending more money might be worth it. The front end is already being converted to Chevy bolt pattern because I’m running Camaro Brembo brakes and corvette rotors, and this set up allows me to have the same bolt pattern in the rear with out drilling axles. My thought process is the time saved cleaning an 8.8 cutting it welding it changing bolt pattern and such, spending more money to get something that will take less time to get ready to go in the car might be 100% worth it. From your experience, with the axle that I linked before, any issues you could warn about or anything you would have done differently? Thanks. I’d like to learn everything possible before pulling the trigger.
Click to expand...
As I mentioned, the 56” measurement is flange to flange so WM to WM would be about 56.5-57” depending in the thickness of your brake rotors or drums.

This width is the perfect fitment for our cars in my opinion but you have to consider back spacing on your wheels to be sure.
 
Its a slippery slope but for $1000 probably worth it. You'll have to change brakes, parking brake, brake lines, weld perches, modify/new driveshaft, etc. Also, the pinion offset will be different so there is that to consider.
 
-Boosted- said:
As I mentioned, the 56” measurement is flange to flange so WM to WM would be about 56.5-57” depending in the thickness of your brake rotors or drums.

This width is the perfect fitment for our cars in my opinion but you have to consider back spacing on your wheels to be sure.
Click to expand...
Awesome so glad to confirm this and not rely on hoping their measurement and description is correct. Really appreciate it!
 
1MeanA said:
It’s a slippery slope but for $1000 probably worth it. You'll have to change brakes, parking brake, brake lines, weld perches, modify/new driveshaft, etc. Also, the pinion offset will be different so there is that to consider.
Click to expand...
Had to do perches and brake lines and parking brake anyway so I’m saving time in modifying axles and cutting the housing on an 8.8. I also already have brackets and calipers to run Brembo 4 piston calipers either on an 8.8 or a ford 9 in with Torino ends
 
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