A-Body Axles

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69valiant21

69valiant21

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Need new axles. Want to run slicks and dad's old hand me down SBP axles drilled to BBP probably wont take the torque.

8 3/4 rear end. Need to know spline count and length.

Moser vs Yukon? Are Mosers really worth the extra $$? I have a pretty stout 318, but its still a 318.

Im thinking these will fit yeah?

Yukon Gear Rear Axle Shaft, 28.0 in.
 
Moser cost more but well the extra money..got mine for $400.00 w/green bearings installed..Yukon probably aren't much better then stock
 
Call Dr. diff.. he will have what you need and his prices and service are excellent. Damn beat at the busser..www.doctordiff.com
 
I have run moser in a few cars. Never a problem. I have also run some of yukons products in an off-road rig and they are awesome.
 
what size slicks, how much power, automatic, press in or screw in studs? do not be so quick to give up on stock mopar axles
 
I have no doubt stock axles would be plenty strong enough. Just curious about the after market world. So now that we are talking stock axles whats the process to replace the bearings?
 
Keep in mind that the cheaper yukon axles aren't worth zippy if you have 2 piece side gears in your chunk. According to Cass (dr. Diff) you only have about 1/8 inch of axle engagement with the diff when you run the 2 piece side gear with the yukons.

Cass has axles that address that problem, or the one piece side gears if you really want the yukons.

I already had my yukon axles so I opted to install the 1 piece side gears instead.

Good luck!!!

CE
 
69valiant21 said:
I have no doubt stock axles would be plenty strong enough. Just curious about the after market world. So now that we are talking stock axles whats the process to replace the bearings?
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IMO, If you are going to re-drill the stockers you may want to fill the sbc holes.
The new holes will need to be precise in location off axle center.
Screw in studs are in mine as press in would have gotten really close to the flange OD.
Re-drilling the drums isn't quite as critical as the axle flange as it runs off the register hub.
I prefer the standard taper bearings. Which ever you do, have the old ones pressed off if possible. Don't use a torch. A lot of folks have cut into the shaft using a cutoff wheel.
Clean and dry the bearing area. Visually inspect it for any defect. The bottom of a scratch or nick will generally reflect light where as a crack won't. Any suspect area should be Magnaflux or Zyglow inspected prior to pressing a new bearing on.
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71scamp78 said:
I'm giving my stock axles a go with around 525 hp 500 tq in a full bodied dart 3800 3.55 gear 28 inch slick
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Good luck with that..my 416 520 h.p. 500tq..twisted stock ones and snaped every stud off the driverside axle..got the Moser no more problems:):)
 
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