A Body Disc Brake Swap 101

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ok guys, just found this thread, and about an hour ago just bought all the parts for the swap for a hundred bucks, ( not too bad I think), we could have bought the booster to but didn't, as I didn't want to do that part of the swap, how many guys here are installing a booster for power brakes at the same time? I could go back and get it for another 50 bucks?, personally I dont mind manual brakes as long as there disc up front
 
Power steering and power brakes are not performance build friendly in these older machines. Some builders have invested in power brakes only to find their cam choice doesn't support it. The only difference is drivers physical effort. If you are accustom to manual brake effort today, to stay with that is probably the best plan.
 
RedFish said:
The only difference is drivers physical effort. If you are accustom to manual brake effort today, to stay with that is probably the best plan.
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Funny. My Dart has manual brakes and I'm fine with that (although they have never worked well since I've had the car, front 9" only) I know how they are. My Polara has power brakes, and when they weren't hooked up, they sucked! Power brakes without vacuum is way worse than manual brakes any day. Now I'm adding big block and manual steering to the mix. And I can't wait!
 
I finished doing this swap on my 73 Dart Sport. The whole thing went real easy and looked great. I picked up all the parts from a salvage yard in CO (thanks to Monty). I decided to switch from manual to power brakes so my daughter can drive it but I now have about an inch and a half pedal travel before the brakes start to catch and it feels weak at best. I picked up a booster and MC from a 72 Valiant and it all seemed to bolt up ok and when I test drove it and felt how mushy the brakes were I put a rebuilt MC on and a adjustable prop block from SSB. Any ideas why the brakes are weak? I can't let me kid drive it until I feel good about it.
 
Air in the lines? Did you start bleeding with the furthest brake from the master? Bench bled the master?
 
bce said:
I finished doing this swap on my 73 Dart Sport. The whole thing went real easy and looked great. I picked up all the parts from a salvage yard in CO (thanks to Monty). I decided to switch from manual to power brakes so my daughter can drive it but I now have about an inch and a half pedal travel before the brakes start to catch and it feels weak at best. I picked up a booster and MC from a 72 Valiant and it all seemed to bolt up ok and when I test drove it and felt how mushy the brakes were I put a rebuilt MC on and a adjustable prop block from SSB. Any ideas why the brakes are weak? I can't let me kid drive it until I feel good about it.
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Most common error, Calipers mounted in a way that locates those bleeders in the wrong position.
 
Ahhhh yes. Bleeders have to be at the highest point on the caliper,or air no come out.
 
Love this whole thread, pun intended... I am almost done with my BBP/disc swap. This seems like such a simple thing, but as embarrassing as it may be, I do not know the answer. The new(er) parts still have the crazy 'wrong' direction lug pattern on the passenger side. How does a guy find lug nuts for this for aftermarket or stock wheels? Or is it as simple as banging out the old ones and putting in left-handers? As I said, it is so simple a question that it could make me sound stupid, but I must ask. What route did you go? What have you heard others do? Thanks in advance.
 
I have to say this thread has helped me as well. i purchased the ABS powerbrake system through classic industries for my duster. i have decided that i will not use the power brake portion and use it as a manual disc brake setup.
 
Just add a little to this thread. I just upgraded a 68 GTS to the 73 and up disc system. I had some 14in stock steel wheels from a 68 Satellite project with big bolt pattern sitting around. I was just going to use these wheels as rollers until I get the Cragars for it.I found out that these wheels hit the calipers before they are tight on the hub. Sooo... I'm assuming one would have to use different offset 14's or go to 15 in wheels.
Anyone else run into this issue ??? Again... Just a PSA
 
I had to go to 15" rims. Had to try a few different tire heights and widths to make sure they didn't scrape the lower lip of the front fender. When I took the rims to the tire store i told them if they could mount the tires that I wanted (and I paid for them) so I could test fit them on the front of the car. I told the tire folks that if they didn't fit I would bring them back and swap them out for another size until I found the width and height that fit. They agreed, it only took a couple of tries to get the correct tire, then they balanced them and they've been on the car for over two years!!
I also had bought 15" rims that gave me the correct track width (as close as possible) to stock track width. The '73 and up spindles/brakes push the wheel mounting surface further away from the engine so you have to get the correct offset to get the center of the tire where you want it to be. Pushing the tire and wheel away from the engine increases the chances of the tire hitting the front fender lower lip.


PS - Some folks (here on FABO) don't like the "Jacked Up" stance on my car but it's a tribute to the old 60s street car era. Here where I live I've learned to tolerate all the people who take pictures of my car everywhere I go!!

treblig
 

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I did this swap on a '70 duster but went with Wilwood no need to change upper control arms and half the tools needed..
 
The. 73 Dart I harvested for the disk brakes had 14" steel wheels from the factory. Initially I used a set of 14" big bolt pattern wheels with 235/60-14 ties on all four corners. I latter switched to 15x7 Ralley wheels with 225/60-15 tires, these would rub the front edge of the fender opening when the wheel was at full lock (68 Barracuda). I switched the tires to 215/60-15s which clear fine. I have 255/60-15s on 15x8 Ralley wheels on the back.
 
I am doing a disk swap on my 69 4 door dart. I have 73 upper ca's, 73+ spindles, disks, calipers, backing plates, everything. They are the pin style. I need to know what lower ball joint to use with my stock 69 lower arms to fit to the 73+ spindle. Any help would be great thanks and keep on wrenching.
 
I am wanting to switch a 72 Duster to Disc brake setup. I have only found newer years with front drum brakes are the A arms the bigger size or does it have to be the disc brake arms? any other options. only options around my area is over 350?
 
I have 75 spindles and I put the brakes together with the calipers toward the back of the car. Is there a difference? I've seen it done both ways.
 
Jimcbmx45 said:
I have 75 spindles and I put the brakes together with the calipers toward the back of the car. Is there a difference? I've seen it done both ways.
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Be sure the bleeder screws are at the calipers high point for best brake bleeding.
 
Greetings Fabo! My first time posting since at least a year ago or more!!

After getting my 65 Cuda running i sorta parked it and attended lifes other needs...but now am in process of disc brake swap upgrade from a '74 Dart and have read numerous threads and responses & familiarized myself with necessities to an extent but have questions that require clarifying:

-1965 with manual drum brakes-


Can I use my "original" tie rod ends to the '74 spindles? Yes/No?

Will a caliper from a '76 Abody work on the '74 bracket? Yes/No?

It seems there is a consolidation of responses that I can use my original MC push rod on the new dual reservoir MC. (I'm staying with manual brakes) Yes/No?

I plan on mounting my calipers to the rear for future sway bar addition so I will need a brake hose from a B body for length requirement. Yes/No?

Thanks as always for a class site!
 
eestatic said:
Can I use my "original" tie rod ends to the '74 spindles? Yes/No?
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I was told by memebers here you can use your original tie rods with the 74 spindles, but you'll need to also use the original center link and pitman/idler arms.
 
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