A Body WAGONS-Ho! A body Wagon Thread

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I've been working on my 64 Dart 170 Wagon for a month or so. Made floorboards and now the engine Has a knock. I'll be able to enjoy it eventually! Lol

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Josh VanHorne said:
I've been working on my 64 Dart 170 Wagon for a month or so. Made floorboards and now the engine Has a knock. I'll be able to enjoy it eventually! Lol

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Nice wagon ! I have a 65 Valiant wagon.Wagons are the very best !Keep at it and you'll be enjoying it before you know it.Mine has been a 25 year long ongoing project but in use the whole time.I made quarters from a 65 Valiant convertible 'cause I couldn't find wagon ones .That fix lasted close to 20 years now I'm looking for some more.It's a never ending process but well worth it.http://s27.photobucket.com/user/valiantwagonguy/My Wagon/story Good luck with yours .
 
Wow your car looks pretty good and it looks like you have touched about every bolt on it!

I'm getting there. Bought a super smooth running engine from a member on here. It's in and the interior is put together. New tires, a arm bushings and leaf springs. Hopefully my shackles will be here tomorrow to get it ready to roll
 
You are going to enjoy driving this car.Mine was a 225 automatic until at around 325,000 miles when the motor finally bit the dust.When I pulled it and took a peek inside I found 4 of the pistons had broken rings and the damn thing still ran ! At that point I decided to put in a sweet 170 I had and a 4 speed from a 6 cyl 65 Barracuda I had. I also had a 7 1/4 323 sure grip so I did that as well. It's rusty in the quarters but a joy to drive.I take it on long trips and use it to haul lumber up at my camp in the Adirondacks.They were meant to be used and will treat you real good if you do use them.My friend here in LI has a Dart wagon. His is also a 170 but an automatic and like mine ,in daily service. With the 4 speed I find I have much greater control of the engine and can get upwards of 24 MPG.It's a 400 mile ride to my camp ant this little beast does it without breaking a sweat on a tank and 1/8th of gas.
 
That's awesome to hear! This one has been fighting me at every turn but I believe that's from sitting for years. I'm really hoping to be able to load the kids up and go on trips with it as well as daily drive when it's nice out. My current daily is an 83 d150 with a 225 in it as well.

Over the winter we are going to rear into the body work and paint (rusty and someone's old body work is popping)
 
Josh VanHorne said:
That's awesome to hear! This one has been fighting me at every turn but I believe that's from sitting for years. I'm really hoping to be able to load the kids up and go on trips with it as well as daily drive when it's nice out. My current daily is an 83 d150 with a 225 in it as well.

Over the winter we are going to rear into the body work and paint (rusty and someone's old body work is popping)
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Just keep making slow steady progress.Make it roadworthy first so it's a safe driver then start on the rest .Using it while you fix it up is way better than spending years building a trailer queen show car.They were meant to drive and work and doing that is the best thing for them because you keep them up when you use them. I don't take mine out in winter on salted roads or in snow but the rest of the year she is in service.
 
I couldn't agree more, sitting is the worst thing for a car. Hopefully the shackles will show up tomorrow and I'll be able to venture out in it Sunday!

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I'm needing to access the wiring for a 66 Dodge Dart with a power back window. Where does it run? There is no dash in the car and no interior in the car but I cannot open up the tailgate because the back window is up and I have no way to get it down. I figure if I can access the wiring, I can put power to the wires and see if the rear window motor works. I'm wondering what to do to open the rear window if the motor doesn't work. Any ideas?
 
Wiring for the rear window runs might be incorporated with the wiring for the taillights/stop lights/back up lights (if equipped) on the driver's side. If not incorporated with the rest of the wiring, it will be a separate harness. In either case the plug to connect the wiring to the underdash harness will be behind the driver's kick panel. Once you locate the rear window harness, one of the two heavy duty wires (probably 12 gauge) makes the window go up; the other wire down. If the motor doesn't work, you only other option is remove the tailgate access panel from inside the car. I'm guessing if you drop the motor, the glass ought to lower at least partway until it can be disengaged from the motor arms. Hope this helps a little.
 
65 Dartman said:
Wiring for the rear window runs might be incorporated with the wiring for the taillights/stop lights/back up lights (if equipped) on the driver's side. If not incorporated with the rest of the wiring, it will be a separate harness. In either case the plug to connect the wiring to the underdash harness will be behind the driver's kick panel. Once you locate the rear window harness, one of the two heavy duty wires (probably 12 gauge) makes the window go up; the other wire down. If the motor doesn't work, you only other option is remove the tailgate access panel from inside the car. I'm guessing if you drop the motor, the glass ought to lower at least partway until it can be disengaged from the motor arms. Hope this helps a little.
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That does help. I will compare the wires behind the driver side kick panel on my station wagon with the wires behind the kick panel on my non station wagon, and see if I can figure out which ones are the tailgate wires and I will power each 1 of them and see if the window goes down.
 
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