A body weight?

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I don't really know how they calibrate the dyno and you are correct different dynos give different numbers. I mainly dyno my motors to break them in. I know in my car based on different small block combos: 340 12 1/2 1 comp. 527 lift roller cam ,W2 heads made 529 went 10. 70s / 363 ( 360 magnum block ) W2 heads 11 1/2 to 1 comp. 590 lift cam ,made 549 HP. went 10.40 best / 408 , R block, Indy heads 600 lift mech. cam 9 .8 to 1 comp. made 539 HP. went 10.69 best... my present 367 ( 363 redone 40 over ) W2 heads , 585/594 mech. cam 10 to 1 comp. went 11.09 didn't dyno it ,but bent a valve after repair it will be dyno'ed guessing 500-520 range hp. 10.90s

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Yes indeed !!! I didn’t dyno my last motor because of time constraints to be ready for a race and as a result the motor had to come back out after 15 runs had it been properly tuned on the dyno the problem likely would not have happened .
 
63SplitWindow said:
Car is all steel (including bumpers) except for glass hood. I wonder how much weight I could lose with glass bumpers and trunk lid?......75 - 100 lbs?
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Yes, the deck would be the better part of 50 alone. While you're doing bumpers, there is weight savings in the mounts as well.
 
rklein383 said:
I would presume that different dynos would give a wide range of horsepower ratings for the same engine. How do you calibrate a dyno?
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You calibrate a water brake dyno with an arm of a known length and accurate weights. For example, if you are going to make 600 lb/ft torque and your arm is 3 feet long then you need to put 200 pounds of weigh in the arm set the software. Arm length and actual weight is critical. If you have an arm that is 22 inches and you tell the software the arm is 24 inches you induce an error into the calibration. Same with the weights. If you are telling the software you are putting 200 pounds on the arm it needs to be 200 pounds. And you should get 2 sets of numbers off the dyno. The actual numbers the engine produced at the brake and the corrected numbers that correct to a standard. That’s because you can dyno the same engine in August on a 100 degree day and again in February on a 40 degree day and get the same corrected numbers. The uncorrected numbers will follow the weather but the corrected number should be the same no matter the weather.
 
Mid to low 10's, you will need about 550hp or better at that weight (assuming you are at 3100#'s car and driver).

I don't know what power my car makes (never checked), but it pushes my ~3250# Barracuda into the low 10's.
 
flyfish said:
Mid to low 10's, you will need about 550hp or better at that weight (assuming you are at 3100#'s car and driver).

I don't know what power my car makes (never checked), but it pushes my ~3250# Barracuda into the low 10's.
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That sounds about right ! I made 549 hp. with a relatively mild W2 head 363 went 10.40 in a 3,150 lb Dart.
 
71 Dart with glass hood and trunk lid. Front and rear fiberglass bumpers. Two batteries in Trunk. 8 gallon fuel cell... All glass windows except quarter glass are lexan. One plastic seat..no heater box. 8 point roll bar with 2 x 3 frame rail with .125 wall .
Strange Dana 60, ladder bars with QA1 DA shocks in rear. Drag lite wheels. Car with driver weights in a 2950 since she only weights 140 lbs.

360 .060 stock stroke H beam rods Wiseco pistons. Eddy ported open chamber heads ...hughes 6064 cam....flat top pistons...Best of 10.31 @ 128.22......Don't care what a Dyno sheet says....only care what the ET slips says....
 
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