A/C

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Paul King

MrPJK
Joined
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Location
Ontario Canada
Hello Everyone ,I have a 66 Dart with factory air and would like to switch it over to the smaller compressor .how hard would it be or possible ,Thanks

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1966 Barracuda 273-4bbl auto no ac car that now has ac.
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Made mine using the vintage air bracket for a 318 with aluminum pump set up.
My engine is a cast iron water pump 273/4bbl.
It took some time and a lot of patience but I got it and it works well.

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1966 Barracuda 273-4bbl auto no ac car that now has ac.
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View attachment 1716000370Made mine using the vintage air bracket for a 318 with aluminum pump set up.
My engine is a cast iron water pump 273/4bbl.
It took some time and a lot of patience but I got it and it works well.

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Dude, that is Slick!!! I bookmarked this post! A/C is on my bucket list.

What heater/AC box did you use?
 
You can mod your original RV2 bracket to fit the Sanden compressor. Lots of people have done it. It's not too difficult and it'a WAY cheaper than custom brackets and much easier to find than the later model factory brackets.....since you already have it.
 
Dude, that is Slick!!! I bookmarked this post! A/C is on my bucket list.

What heater/AC box did you use?
Vintage air - Gen2 ac and heat. In order to make fit I had to install 180. They are made for Chevrolet piping to the middle of the firewall. So I spun the unit around and it worked in the 66’ I will look for pictures. This is all I’ve got for photos.

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Hello Everyone ,I have a 66 Dart with factory air and would like to switch it over to the smaller compressor .how hard would it be or possible ,Thanks

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I have a ‘73 Swinger with factory A/C. I got tired of the poor ole 318 turning the massive RV2 and we robbed all the brackets, lines, and compressor from a ‘78 Diplomat. It all fits great by merging my lines with the Diplomat lines. Now my air works much better at idle and has much less vibration and noise. Also, the car cooled decently before but now will freeze you out on a day with 106 heat index. I don’t have any pics on my phone. Will try to run out to the shop and grab some in a bit.
 
I have a ‘73 Swinger with factory A/C. I got tired of the poor ole 318 turning the massive RV2 and we robbed all the brackets, lines, and compressor from a ‘78 Diplomat. It all fits great by merging my lines with the Diplomat lines. Now my air works much better at idle and has much less vibration and noise. Also, the car cooled decently before but now will freeze you out on a day with 106 heat index. I don’t have any pics on my phone. Will try to run out to the shop and grab some in a bit.
Took longer to get out and grab pics than I planned but here’s a couple to show the updated compressor.

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A small compressor would be a Sanden. They come in two body sizes - H13 and H14-H16. I used the H13 "shorty" in my 1964 slant-six since from a former M-B retrofit and an H14 in my 1965 Dart 273. The H13 is used in Honda Civics, so "should suffice" in an A, dep. on where you live. It is ~1" shorter as I recall. I made my own brackets. In the slant, I used the generic $50 weld-your own type, using structural steel plate from Home Depot. Those give you the critical curved slots. I mounted it on the power steering pad of the block and secured to the R engine bracket hole. Insure you orient so the slots let you tension the belt. Later, I got Sanden brackets from a 1978 Volare slant, which also mounts a p.s. pump so might swap to that someday (comes very close to battery in early A). For the small block, I leveraged 2 brackets w/ curved slots from perhaps a Chevy and another engine. Don't know since they came with a used Sanden compressor I bought. I secured it to the water pump (using later alum w.p.) and an intake bolt (vintage aluminum). You can buy brackets for a small-block and big-block (Bouchillon Performance, others) and perhaps slant (sketchy if available and high cost). Prefer a 7 bolt Sanden (SD7) to the older 5 bolt type (SD508, I recall). You will also have fun with pulleys and belts.
 
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