A few 2-Step questions

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Let me share my setup and the issue I am experiencing before asking the questions....

MSD 7AL3 with built in 2-Step (Launch RPM) wired to the brake light switch and adjusted with MSD RPM Pills (anywhere between 2000-4000 is the range I have been using).

The 2-Step works great for launch RPM control every time. The issue is at the end of the pass, I am on the brakes to slow the car down and that activates the 2-Step causing havoc with the tach bouncing up and down and the occasional backfire out the exhaust. I assume this is due to the engine braking going on that holds the RPM above the set RPM of the 2-Step and the 2-Step activating since the brake light switch is sending a signal to the box.

My 727 has a RMVB without clean neutral so I have no choice but to engine brake so I am thinking of adding a separate switch (toggle) that I can use at the end of a pass to kill the signal to the 2-Step and allow me to use the brakes.

My question is, am I on the right track with this? How do you have your 2-step setup? Am I overthinking it and shouldn't worry about it?

Thanks in advance, Bill
 
-Boosted- said:
Let me share my setup and the issue I am experiencing before asking the questions....

MSD 7AL3 with built in 2-Step (Launch RPM) wired to the brake light switch and adjusted with MSD RPM Pills (anywhere between 2000-4000 is the range I have been using).

The 2-Step works great for launch RPM control every time. The issue is at the end of the pass, I am on the brakes to slow the car down and that activates the 2-Step causing havoc with the tach bouncing up and down and the occasional backfire out the exhaust. I assume this is due to the engine braking going on that holds the RPM above the set RPM of the 2-Step and the 2-Step activating since the brake light switch is sending a signal to the box.

My 727 has a RMVB without clean neutral so I have no choice but to engine brake so I am thinking of adding a separate switch (toggle) that I can use at the end of a pass to kill the signal to the 2-Step and allow me to use the brakes.

My question is, am I on the right track with this? How do you have your 2-step setup? Am I overthinking it and shouldn't worry about it?

Thanks in advance, Bill
Click to expand...

Do you use a shute?
If so maybe use a switch on the shute handle to disable the 2 step?
 
I would think an in line switch to activate and deactivate the 2 step that you can throw after your pass. And deactivate the two step...
 
j par said:
I would think an in line switch to activate and deactivate the 2 step that you can throw after your pass. And deactivate the two step...
Click to expand...
Yeah, that was one of the suggestions I came up with. Just wasn’t sure what everyone else was doing.
 
I know it's just more thing you got to remember to do because of course you'll forget to turn it on when you need it...
 
Somebody tried to cobble together a "racecar" with my Duster before I got it. Power for the 2-step is through a switch on the dash, maybe that's why. I just leave it off though, as it's a 100% street car now.
 
most foot brake racers have a button in brake pedal, to one side, for launch. when applying brakes at end of run its out of the way. just food for thought.
 
perfacar said:
most foot brake racers have a button in brake pedal, to one side, for launch. when applying brakes at end of run its out of the way. just food for thought.
Click to expand...
I thought about doing that as well. Seems like the best solution.... just need to teach myself to apply the brakes on the right side of the pedal since I like to hold the car at the line on the left side.

Thanks, Bill
 
What about a momentary button on your shifter you hold to allow the 2-step to be activated? Sorta like the line-loc button. That way the 2-step is only "awake" when you hold that button and your foot is on the brake. That would require foot and button release coordination though so maybe not ideal.

But maybe a variation of it? Use the button to activate a timer relay. Relay in series with brake pedal switch. Relay only stays engaged for like 5-10 seconds so it holds while you're standing on brake and gas but is off by the end of the pass so brake pedal switch has no bearing on the 2-step. Good for the street also since you would not be hitting that switch.

Just some ideas - lots of ways to do this!!
 
Could also try a something like a mercury switch to deactivate the relay when braking.
 
Get an adjustable button like the Just-n-Time Button from Biondo. That way you can really refine your lights without having to adjust rpm and what not, just adjust the button. Or get really fancy and just put a delay box in the car and wire it thru that, depending on which classes your going to run.
 
moparstud440 said:
Get an adjustable button like the Just-n-Time Button from Biondo. That way you can really refine your lights without having to adjust rpm and what not, just adjust the button. Or get really fancy and just put a delay box in the car and wire it thru that, depending on which classes your going to run.
Click to expand...
I am foot braking the car and delay box isn't allowed in Pro ET. Eventually I will go with a transbrake and when I do, the adjustable button from Biondo or something similar will be in the car.
 
Demonx2 said:
What about a momentary button on your shifter you hold to allow the 2-step to be activated? Sorta like the line-loc button. That way the 2-step is only "awake" when you hold that button and your foot is on the brake. That would require foot and button release coordination though so maybe not ideal.

But maybe a variation of it? Use the button to activate a timer relay. Relay in series with brake pedal switch. Relay only stays engaged for like 5-10 seconds so it holds while you're standing on brake and gas but is off by the end of the pass so brake pedal switch has no bearing on the 2-step. Good for the street also since you would not be hitting that switch.

Just some ideas - lots of ways to do this!!
Click to expand...
I have buttons I could use on my shifter but I don't think this would be the best solution for consistency.
 
I footbrake and don’t use anything. Don’t use line lock. I just put my foot on the brakes in second gear, whap the gas real quick to get the rpm’s up, get tire spin quickly, off the brake, and drive out. I have learned both the radial tire and the wallet both like a light burnout.
I do use the rpm limiter in my MSD box, but I set it several hundred rpm’s above the highest rpm the car sees racing, just as insurance. The pills were notorious for being unreliable rpm wise. Now I have dials and that technology seems to outshine the pills regards accuracy. Think I have it set at 6800 and the car sees nowhere near that 1/8 racing, but I do sometimes hit the 6400 shift light in the water box for an instant.
I always stage my car at exactly 2000 rpm by using a little digital auto meter tach/ shift light combo I have double sided taped on the dash, as its easier and more accurate to use than an analog tach needle.
The car, doing all this, is way better than I am. So, as the old saying goes, if it don’t stink, don’t stir it.
First outing weekend before last, making 6 passes from morning to late at light. The car was with in 17 thou for the day every pass.6.560 to 6.577
 
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Most of the cars I seen using a 2 step when foot braking use a pressure switch in the brake system. Some had a toggle switch that had to be turned off after leaving, and some used a switch on the brake pedal or on the steering wheel to activate. Could also use a switch on the shifter that opens in high gear, so the 2 step won’t work in high gear
 
Sterling said:
"Could also use a switch on the shifter that opens in high gear, so the 2 step won’t work in high gear"
Click to expand...
I really like this idea more than any of the others. In fact, it's Brilliant! lol

I have both pressure switch on the Wilwood MC and a traditional brake light switch on the pedal. Redundant system that works. I am going to look at adding a switch that will open the circuit in high gear and see if it works.

Thanks, Bill
 
My trans brake and 2-Step share a momentary switch button on my steering wheel. So as I release the TB button, the 2-step shuts off as well.

Both the TB and 2S have their own individual power buttons, so I can switch them on/off. I need the TB button for reverse, so I had to wire it this way. I don't want the 2-step activated when I go to backup.

As OP mentioned, I would install an on/off switch within the circuit specifically for the 2-step. You'll just have to remember to hit the switch before hitting the brakes.
 
-Boosted- said:
Let me share my setup and the issue I am experiencing before asking the questions....

MSD 7AL3 with built in 2-Step (Launch RPM) wired to the brake light switch and adjusted with MSD RPM Pills (anywhere between 2000-4000 is the range I have been using).

The 2-Step works great for launch RPM control every time. The issue is at the end of the pass, I am on the brakes to slow the car down and that activates the 2-Step causing havoc with the tach bouncing up and down and the occasional backfire out the exhaust. I assume this is due to the engine braking going on that holds the RPM above the set RPM of the 2-Step and the 2-Step activating since the brake light switch is sending a signal to the box.

My 727 has a RMVB without clean neutral so I have no choice but to engine brake so I am thinking of adding a separate switch (toggle) that I can use at the end of a pass to kill the signal to the 2-Step and allow me to use the brakes.

My question is, am I on the right track with this? How do you have your 2-step setup? Am I overthinking it and shouldn't worry about it?

Thanks in advance, Bill
Click to expand...
Make sure you choose wisely, because you'll have to help me with mine lol
 
In my Stock Eliminator Cuda, i use a pressure switch, that is the only way to go, you can adjust the switch, and you would have to be in a really bad situation, to activate the the 2 step at the big end.
 
ValiantRacing said:
In my Stock Eliminator Cuda, i use a pressure switch, that is the only way to go, you can adjust the switch, and you would have to be in a really bad situation, to activate the the 2 step at the big end.
Click to expand...
This would be the quickest and easiest solution for me with my current set up. I’m gonna try that and see how it works.

Thanks, Bill
 
My setup is for a stick car with a micro switch that is activated when the clutch pedal is all the way down( I can't see why this wouldn't work with a brake pedal)
So how it works the line lock button and clutch switch, are wired through a toggle switch to two relays that wire into the 2 step and a red LED light that is mounted under the shift lite.
When the toggle switch is turned off the the line lock is only activated.
When the toggle switch is on you press the line lock button to activate the first relays which in turn activates the 2 step, the clutch switch, line lock, and red LED that tells you the system is activated. The second relay is turned on by the clutch switch(or brake switch in your case) at that point you release the line lock button. Once the clutch switch is released the relays turn off and does not turn on again till you push the line lock button to reactivate the relays circuit again.
Kind of a long explanation but is been working flawlessly for me for like 12 to 15 years now. All it cost is two 4 prong relays, a toggle switch , a micro switch( you already have the line lock switch), few different colors of wire and a small red LED lite or your color choice.
 
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