A few questions

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Rengo

Rengo

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I plan on building a 406 stroker out of my 360. What heads do I need to get, MA or LA? Next question is, How big of an oil pan can I fit under my car? will have a /6 k frame.
If anyone can find the links and post them I would deeply appriciate it.
Thanks Jared.
 
The head choice is yours. If you have a Magnum engine now, you'll need to drill the block for use of "LA" heads. If you have a "LA" block, you can just bolt on the Magnum heads.

Oil pan clearance can be an issue due to the manufacturer of pan, not so much K-frame.
 
Okay next question is how do I know if I have an LA block?
I was told the largest I can fit is a 3qrt?
 
Get some RHS heads,with the deep oil pan you,ll have to notch you K-frame for clearance of the wider pan at the bottom.Good luck.
 
J4R3D said:
Okay next question is how do I know if I have an LA block?
I was told the largest I can fit is a 3qrt?
Click to expand...
3Qt. pan? Stock is 4qt.

What are the numbers on the side of the block. A Magnum block will have beefy lifter boss'es and no oil feed hole at the deck. Late model "LA" blocks have the oil hole in the deck and beefy lifter bosses. Older "LA" blocks do not have a beefy lifter boss.

pettybludart said:
Get some RHS heads,with the deep oil pan you,ll have to notch you K-frame for clearance of the wider pan at the bottom.Good luck.
Click to expand...

Which oil pan pettyblue?
 
You can try the milodon road race pan, holds 6 qt. I have one but give a shout to autoxcuda, pretty sure he can tell you if the pan will work with a /6 k frame. I'd go with aluminum heads, you can get more compression out of the motor that way. I just ordered a set of eddy 63cc heads for my 340. Should be here today. Also are you going to put a roller cam in it? If so I got a thread going about push rod angle, check it for thought.
 
Ha ha ha, pushrod angles suck no matter what you do, stock block curse. Fixable through a expensive block upgrade.
 
I would modify/clearance the pan before hacking up the frame.

The 8 qt milodon fits, just lop the front pass side corner off and weld a flat piece in place.

The slant k frame is Identical to the small block k frame with the exception of the pass side mount, it need to be brought foward and up some, the driverside is a direct bolt up to a sb motor bracket.

The lifter angle casing loss of lift can simply be compensated for with more cam lift, say the average loss is 5% of every .100 , so .500 lift loses .025 lift...add that much more to the lobes you choose. Mock it all up after machining and short block is done with heads bolted to block w/head gaskets and see what the % of loss is per .100 with any cam you have laying around to get an idea of how much for certain.

Really...with a closed chamber, the iron head will allow about the same if not the same compression an aluminum head will allow on pump/limited octane, it's only a weight diff...and with all the same...the aluminum head needs about a full point more to make the same power.
 
I will get the numbers tonight, the plan is to build a stroker and I intend on doing everything right the first time. I want to go with alum. heads for that reason but I need to find out what type of block I have first, My mistake on the oil pan. I pretty much need all of the info on how to build this motor the right way.
plan on going through Hughes, maybe rhs alum. 360x heads, I just read about them, dont really know the pros and cons. I want a six pack but a 4bbl might have to do.
 
J4R3D said:
I will get the numbers tonight, the plan is to build a stroker and I intend on doing everything right the first time. I want to go with alum. heads for that reason but I need to find out what type of block I have first, My mistake on the oil pan. I pretty much need all of the info on how to build this motor the right way.
plan on going through Hughes, maybe rhs alum. 360x heads, I just read about them, dont really know the pros and cons. I want a six pack but a 4bbl might have to do.
Click to expand...

RHS heads are cast iron not aluminum
 
well ****, I must have miss read the article on moparmagazine.. anyways these are the numbers I got off the block, they are small and 8,6,5,9 are hard to read.

34194984860

I will take another look tomorrow so I have better lighting.
 
I agree about the RHS heads. You will be on the outside of what a stock unported head can do with a stroker right off the bat. Since it costs probably just as if not more to get old heads in shape, you would be dollars and power ahead to go with the RHS heads. If you want somethin to just slap together to have quick and sound good, just stab a 236 @ .050" cam in a 360 and call it a day.
 
After scrubbing the block with a tooth brush and some cleaner I got this
<3418496.4.850>
the Ex. manifolds
T 88703371-1 5-22-75

Strating from the bottom up.
How big of an oil pan will I need for a Stroker motor? most have enough space for 4.125 stroke, Is that the stroke of the 408?
 
So what you are saying Ferg Is that I have to put more into the block to get what I want out of the alum. heads?
I want the motor to be streetable, but fuel economy is not a problem.

I was considering dome pistons, I dont know what rods to get, same for crank and cam. I am certain that someone at hughes will hook me up though. My only concerns are the heads, and matching the ports on the intake with the heads, but this is much; much further down the line.
 



if this works, here is a picture of the lifter bosses and I believe it is an LA block due to the hole?
 
I definitely would not use power brakes with the engine combination you propose Jared.
 
rumblefish360 said:
3Qt. pan? Stock is 4qt.

What are the numbers on the side of the block. A Magnum block will have beefy lifter boss'es and no oil feed hole at the deck. Late model "LA" blocks have the oil hole in the deck and beefy lifter bosses. Older "LA" blocks do not have a beefy lifter boss.



Which oil pan pettyblue?
Click to expand...
Mildoon oil pan part #30940.

If I were you,I,d find a reliable engine builder in your area to get some ideas before spending on unwanted parts.JMO
 
I am really good friends with the guy that owns the only mopar shop within a 50 mile radius, he has an engine shop at the base of a hill and a body shop on top, he has a bunker/basement that he keeps all of his blocks and car parts in. I showed him the pictures of my block and he agreed that it is an LA block.

Thank you for the Pan info. I am getting all the info for the motor gathered up so I know what to build and I know what to expect on paying. After I pay my loan off I spend every cent I earn on what I want.
 
J4R3D said:
So what you are saying Ferg Is that I have to put more into the block to get what I want out of the alum. heads?
I want the motor to be streetable, but fuel economy is not a problem.

I was considering dome pistons, I dont know what rods to get, same for crank and cam. I am certain that someone at hughes will hook me up though. My only concerns are the heads, and matching the ports on the intake with the heads, but this is much; much further down the line.
Click to expand...

What I am saying is...that because the lifter bore are pointed/angled more toward the cylinder [as in not pointed parallel with block angle up from the valley] you end up losing lift do to the drastic angle of the push rod between the rockers adjuster and the lifter.

Just get a lil bigger cam [lift] than you planned in order to hit the lift goal you want.

If a .500 lift cam only shows .488 at the valve/rocker, but you really want .500, order up a .512 lift cam.

see what I mean?
 
Yes I understand, you lose .012 so order that on what you want.

I am looking into kits right now and I am going to talk to the guy that builds the motors at the shop to see what he believes I should get.

Performance wise, what type of crank and cam should I get?
 
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