TurdFerguson
Banned
Its a percentage loss, not a general number like .012, it could be as much as .025 and is greater as the lift/profile increases.
Yes, deffinately talk to a builder and mention the 59* lifter angle and compensating for it some.
A few questions
- Thread starter Rengo
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Its a percentage loss, not a general number like .012, it could be as much as .025 and is greater as the lift/profile increases.
Yes, deffinately talk to a builder and mention the 59* lifter angle and compensating for it some.
1970Duster
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Forged crank and cam with a cast iron gear on it
TurdFerguson
Banned
I like solid cams, they can be had in small street profiles as well as huge.
A cast crank will live fine for under 500 hp and or 7000 rpm
If you are under that criteria, don't spend there...put the money where it will count.
If you tell us what gears/stall convertor/rpm's you want to run in, we can help you choose a cam.
moper
Well-Known Member
No Magnums in '75. It's an LA. You don't need to build any different in the lower end for aluminums. The prices of the pistons are the same. You only need to change the design. You will not run domes. At least, not on pump fuel.
On the oil pan... A stock pan can be used, with a stock windage tray. Or without. Or the Kevko pan. I would not use any pan that hangs down if this is a street driven car.
You need to be very specific on what you want out of the car and the engine, and once that's know, the rest of the recommendations can be made. What worked for one guy doesnt always work with another.
On the oil pan... A stock pan can be used, with a stock windage tray. Or without. Or the Kevko pan. I would not use any pan that hangs down if this is a street driven car.
You need to be very specific on what you want out of the car and the engine, and once that's know, the rest of the recommendations can be made. What worked for one guy doesnt always work with another.
Rengo
Well-Known Member
Well my Hp range is 475 to 500. What pistons would you recomend? or should I get everything forged and call it good? How doess the cast Iron gear help? sorry for the dumb question. lol
As we go I am writting this stuff down.
I wont buy as I go, I will save up as much money as possible and buy in a bulk so I get everything at once so I def. want to work from the inside out.
As we go I am writting this stuff down.
I wont buy as I go, I will save up as much money as possible and buy in a bulk so I get everything at once so I def. want to work from the inside out.
1970Duster
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I used Ross Racing Pistons in my 340. These thing are forged aluminum and weigh next to nothing. The lighter the rotating mass the faster it will spin up through the Rpms. I also use forged crank and forged h-beam rods. Yes forged cost more, but a hell of a lot harder to break. I'd say pick up a forged bottom end. I got my stuff through eagle (the pistons I order separate from the kit)
TurdFerguson
Banned
If you go with a chain type set, go with a billet roller set.
Mancini racing has a set, so does JP performance out of australia.
as for pistons, choose the cylinder heads first, then we can dial the piston head design & compression in around that particular chamber design to utilize any features it may offer, of cose once you commit to the compression ratio you are also going to made to work/pick a cam within a limited range 'with the exception of head gasket tuning.
fwiw I ran a iron crank to 6800 and around 490-500hp with no issues, in fact on freshening it..the bearings and the rest looked brand new.
Rengo
Well-Known Member
Good news is I was just offered a night shift management position at a 24 hour gas station. 12.00 an hour is better than minimum wage (7.55) at wendys any day lol.
Ferg. struck a nerve lol, my slant spun a bearing so I might def. consider that.
I have to have the heads worked on in Neveda Missouri, I will go with Alum. because of the weight. My only question is, should I order the heads ported or nonported?
I plan on having a ported set on the motor, but I have heard alot of bad things about production of the heads. So in other words, How are the porte jobs on the after market heads?
Intake will be matched to the heads and will probably be last with the carb choice and motor mounts, headers. etc..
Probably go with the ross pistons 1970 Duster was talking about and forged on everything else.
Ferg. struck a nerve lol, my slant spun a bearing so I might def. consider that.
I have to have the heads worked on in Neveda Missouri, I will go with Alum. because of the weight. My only question is, should I order the heads ported or nonported?
I plan on having a ported set on the motor, but I have heard alot of bad things about production of the heads. So in other words, How are the porte jobs on the after market heads?
Intake will be matched to the heads and will probably be last with the carb choice and motor mounts, headers. etc..
Probably go with the ross pistons 1970 Duster was talking about and forged on everything else.
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