A healthy 318 is born.

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TrailBeast said:
Well it sounds good anyway.
Not sure it would be all that fair to call it a 318 now, but technically it is.
I don't know how many are going to not notice the sound of it though.:D
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It's still a 318 though and not a stroker. Wicked31 mentioned he was building a 318 stroker and the thread turned that direction.
 
dibbons said:
When the throttle was blipped at the end, I jumped clear out of my seat! It looked like the tachometer was pegged during the blips, but I guess not possible to hit 8 grand.
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Those Autogage tachs are about 2-3 thousand slow on quick transients like that. LOL. J.Rob
 
RAMM said:
Some of my fave springs. Hope you have at least 11-1 with that monster. J.Rob
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11.2-1 with 0.039" quench. ;-) Granted, I am running race gas right now but, I plan to play around with various octanes, timing, and see what I can get away with. Then I'll start planning a 273 build. After all, there is only one way to truely test therories.
 
1966DDart said:
11.2-1 with 0.039" quench. ;-) Granted, I am running race gas right now but, I plan to play around with various octanes, timing, and see what I can get away with. Then I'll start planning a 273 build. After all, there is only one way to truely test therories.
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I've been around here quite a few years and put together a 273 myself. I don't remember anyone building one for much more than stock performance. That will be fun and interesting.
 
1966DDart said:
Speaking of cheap...the flywheel is a lightweight (21...or 23#?) McLeod billet steel unit they were clearancing out a few years back. I think it was $75...I grabbed the last 2 they had! :)
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Looks like all sorts of lightweight parts in there.... sure revs up FAST! Nicely done.
 
yellow rose said:
I see the Unilite distributor, but what's the ignition box?
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Well...it's a bit of a rare oddity and not a true Unilite distributor. Instead, the distributor uses a hall effect sensor. The part you probably questioning is the box temporarily mounted to the bellhousing and is a Mallory 637 control module. In short, it was an EARLY way to electronically set/adjust your timing curve and limits...


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...wAVsQFgglMAA&usg=AOvVaw2l28EPG06RJsQ3B8Dcs_xF

...this was all sold as part number 6057901 but, wasn't popular at the time it came out (~1990?) due to it's cost. I found this one on EBay for around $125, new in the box several years ago. Flip a few dip switches and have the timing curve come in sooner, another couple switches changes the rate of advance, and a few more to limit the total. In short...easy to find out what your engine wants...then run it or build a factory unit to match the curve you found.

As for the other answer to the question, "...what's the ignition box?" I'm using a Crane HI-6 box (part #6000-6440) mounted under the test stand control panel. The matching LX-92 coil is mounted on the intake, next to the distributor. I've used several of these units and LOVE them! The only downside...they tend to smooth out the idle a bit (bad if you want a lot of lope). However, I don't mind less lope in exchange for a MUUUCH better throttle repsonse!
 
Engine sounds great.
I built a start stand a few years ago, and I can also say the wiring and the gauges cost more than the steel and casters to fabricate.

7xbb.jpg
 
sireland67 said:
Engine sounds great.
I built a start stand a few years ago, and I can also say the wiring and the gauges cost more than the steel and casters to fabricate.

View attachment 1715105144
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True DAT! I made my stand out of used water pipe I had laying around here. You guys make your stuff purdy. I didn't even paint mine.
 
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