A little Turbo Selection Help
- Thread starter RustyRatRod
- Start date
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
Thanks, I remember your car and set up. That is very clean.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
When I did my turbo setup, I used a modified Corvair (Rajay) turbo. 500 Holley 2bbl (draw thru), on a 170 engine. Don't know the HP, but car weighed about 2700 lbs, and ran 13.4's at 104 mph, Was at 10-12 lbs boost. Boost gauge needle would vibrate pretty bad. The mod to the turbo was just the compressor housing, to convert from the small Corvair 1 bbl 3 bolt inlet to the now common 3 inch inlet.
PS: I did have a homemade water/alcohol injection system that turned on at 5 psi.
PS: I did have a homemade water/alcohol injection system that turned on at 5 psi.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
The Wallace calculator says you were making about 235hp.
mopar head
Well-Known Member
What do you have going on, on the right fender well, coil pacs?
vitamindart
Well-Known Member
yes, LS style coil packs. ditched the distributor and went coil near plug via a MS3ProEVo
What do you use to trigger the ignition? Have you seen that doohickey Gill Welding has made that bolts to the fuel pump boss and gets a signal from the fuel pump lobe on the cam?
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
So I would guess the turbo added about 105 hp. The 170 stock was 101 hp and it had a cam, bigger carb, and open exhaust (figure about 130 hp)
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
That’s a very healthy 170.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
You should update your thread.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Not to hijack this thread, but my 66 Cuda with a 170, weighed 3250 and ran 12.905 at 101.85 mph. According to Wallace that is 298 hp by ET, and 264 hp by mph. The reason the et number is better is the engine made 368 lb/ft of torque at 2850 rpm. and launched hard. 1.76 sec 60 ft times.
Back to the previous show.
I doubt the turbo has a positive seal for when you have vacuum (which will pull oil out of the cartridge even with oem diesel turbos that have a ring seal). 5-6psi is reasonable with a draw through carb. Searched for some general online info about it: Rebuild IHI RHB5 and add Carbon Seal – Dr. Scott M. Baker
All sorts of other details to consider such as carb icing when colder than 50f outside. Run as big an oil return as possible straight down out of the cartridge because it will be foamed. If it backs up, it will dump into the engine similar to having vacuum.
All sorts of other details to consider such as carb icing when colder than 50f outside. Run as big an oil return as possible straight down out of the cartridge because it will be foamed. If it backs up, it will dump into the engine similar to having vacuum.
No, by all means, please share. Gives us more info.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Rusty, the engine in my Cuda was not turboed, it had a fogger system. From my experience a nitrous slant will make more low end torque, and a turbo slant engine will make more upper end HP.
PS: I am not an expert on either system, and this is just my experience. In all probability a better matched turbo than I had would out perform the nitrous system, or at least could match the bottom end torque.
That makes all the sense in the world, because a turbo.....at least back when you were running them, needed time to spool up, where the N20 was instant. I think modern turbos have come a long way since that time and can have an impact on low end performance as well, but they still have to spool up.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
It’s a completely different world. Just like torque converters, the technology changes so damn fast.
I ALMOST made that comparison.
vitamindart
Well-Known Member
I have a modified Jeep cam position sensor. Yes, I saw Gill Welding's deal. actually talked with them about it when I did mine.
I’m using one as well on a small block. If a small block and slant 6 distro drive are the same distance from the distro mounting surface I have the adapter cad file to have more made.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Question? Would it not be possible to take a stock electronic distributer, and remove all except one of the reluctor "wings" and use that as a cam sensor? Of course lock out the advance.
Totally possible, and done pretty frequently. The reason for switching to a Jeep cam sync sensor is for packaging and the ability to swap the sensor easily.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Thanks. Trying to learn some modern "stuff" here. The 64 Valiant I just got came with the Gill Welding intake Crank sensor assorted other sensors (but I did not see a cam sensor). Has coil on plug ign system. With a Speedunio ECM. Would like to get it running by next summer.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
For running batch fire on most ECUs you don’t even need a cam sync.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
From what I gather it is "semi" batch fire. 3 sets of 2 cyls. I have a lot more reading to do. I'll get into this on my build thread, and try to stop hijacking rusty's thread.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
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