A500/A518 Cars, OD and L/U on a toggle or auto?

How to operate Overdrive and Lock Up switch?

  • Toggle/rocker switches for both

    Votes: 4 44.4%
  • PATC Conversion kit

    Votes: 4 44.4%
  • Auto for the overdrive, lock up on a switch

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Switched OD and L/U, with additional brake light switch disconnect

    Votes: 1 11.1%

  • Total voters
    9
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I just put a A518 in my 79 Warlock with the 2 pin connector non lockup convertor. Was a little chore but got it going , I wired a toggle switch to blue wire hot and orange etc wire to ground . I have no overdrive , have checked hot wire using pin ground on frame ground and it’s all good . Trans feels firm and solid , bought it out of junkyard with 65,000 miles out of a church van . Going to service and replace overdrive solenoid but I am not sure if this will cure it . Any trans guys out there that can give me some ideas , I see a lot of people put switch on ground instead of hot but I have read people do it both ways . Thanks

I would just hook the one side to power and the other to ground with the switch. Not sure if it makes a difference, but I have always read the switch on the ground side.
 
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Pulled pan and it’s full of brass , tranny coming out . Thinking about buying a trans , it’s a 2 pin 518 . Any recommendations on buying a trans from a builder . They are few out there just want a good one without taking out a 2nd mortgage .
 
Does anyone know on a 2 pin (non-lockup) which pin should be 12v + and which should be ground?
 
Does anyone know on a 2 pin (non-lockup) which pin should be 12v + and which should be ground?

2 pin is for a non lock up torque converter transmission. If you have a factory plug, the dark blue wire goes to a keyed power source, and the orange/light green wire goes to a switched ground.
I would be careful with the non lock up causing excessive heat at cruising speeds in the trans because the RPMs will be too low. Lock up will eliminate that heat.
 
2 pin is for a non lock up torque converter transmission. If you have a factory plug, the dark blue wire goes to a keyed power source, and the orange/light green wire goes to a switched ground.
I would be careful with the non lock up causing excessive heat at cruising speeds in the trans because the RPMs will be too low. Lock up will eliminate that heat.
Thank you!
 
I run a different OD trans with lock up 3800 rpm stall converter and ended up using a single toggle to lock up the converter, but it will only lock up when in 4th OD.

I never felt the need to lock up the converter in the first 3 gears. I did buy a high quality torque converter so it is very efficient. In other words, at light throttle it only slips an additional 300 to 375 rpm when not locked up.

Around town, I leave the shifter in the 3rd gear position, so when I shift into 4th or OD, the lock up toggle is almost always in the lock position, it goes into OD and locks a split second later. I only use light throttle when shifting into 4th to ease the load on the lock up clutches. It's basically my freeway cruising gear.

I flip the switch off if I want to hit 4th with hard throttle at freeway speeds.
 
The OD solenoid would be the first thing to check for sure.
If the pan was clean (only normal crap in it) the OD unit is probably ok.
Since OD gets it’s apply fluid from the 3rd gear circuit you know thats there.
Good chance it’s the solenoid.

As far as the electrical goes I used relays to do the ground switching for the solenoids and the hot is a key switched supply.
Also used adjustable pressure switches so with my cabin switches in Auto mode it shifts 123 OD at 60 and lockup at 70 fully automatic.
When slowing lockup turns off when below 70 and OD turns off at 60 and the trans returns to 3rd.
With both switches in the cabin in the off position the trans acts just like a 904 with the low geared first.

With Nitto 245/40-18 high performance tires in the back and 3.55 rear gears it ripped a stock driveshaft in half off a light.:D

@TrailBeast Any chance you have some pics of you set up. I am putting the pieces together for my A500 (in an e-body cuda), and I am having trouble visualizing all the pieces.

Thanks,

Jason
 
@TrailBeast Any chance you have some pics of you set up. I am putting the pieces together for my A500 (in an e-body cuda), and I am having trouble visualizing all the pieces.

Thanks,

Jason

Hey Jason,
I’m going to be doing a video about all that pretty soon For my YouTube channel.
In the meantime I hand drew a wire diagram I can send to an email address that would probably answer some of your concerns.
 
Hey Jason,
I’m going to be doing a video about all that pretty soon For my YouTube channel.
In the meantime I hand drew a wire diagram I can send to an email address that would probably answer some of your concerns.


How do I find you on YouTube? I too am very interested in this. I think I have it correct, but would like to see a visual to be sure.....
 
Hey Jason,
I’m going to be doing a video about all that pretty soon For my YouTube channel.
In the meantime I hand drew a wire diagram I can send to an email address that would probably answer some of your concerns.

Thanks Man! I will watch for the YouTube Vid. I will PM you my email address as well.
 
Thanks Man! I will watch for the YouTube Vid. I will PM you my email address as well.
Ok guys just getting to wiring up my 518 swap with toggle switches. I have switched power going to the center pin on the trans connector is it normal to have 12 volts coming back on the overdrive and lockup wires with the key in the acc position????
 
I am in the process of doing an A518 swap in my 68 Barracuda. For the guys running a similar set up, do you have toggle switches for the overdrive and lockup? Or do you run an automatic OD and L/U set up?
Which do you prefer and and why? I am looking at a PATC kit (link below), or running rocker switches.

PATC 727 to 518 / 46RH Conversion Kit. Click here for 727 to 46RH swap wiring diagram

View attachment 1715454712

I didn’t see the option for what I wanted so I put together my own kit.
I used adjustable pressure switches with rocker switches mounted in my shifter base.
When the toggles are both on it shifts fully automatically.
With the switches both off it shifts 1-2-3 and stays there.
Adjustable pressure switches allow speed adjustments and not just two set speeds like the PATC kit.
I have mine set right now so OD comes on about 50mph and lockup about 65.
Since the adjustable pressure switches are a little pricey I set up relays to do the electrical load switching.
The rocker switches disable the relays ground so it bypasses OD and lockup.
With the 4th gear switch in the auto setting it shifts 1-2-3-4 only.
With both in auto, it shifts 1-2-3-OD-lockup.
With only the 5th switch on it shifts 1-2-3—then lockup at 65.
In my experience you don’t need a brake switch interrupt.
When your speed drops below the pressure the switches sense, it drops out of OD or lockup anyway.
These pics were taken on Interstate 40 in AZ a week or so ago.
I have a 3.55 sure grip 8.25 rear end and this was in OD with lockup.
The part number in the picture is the 30-70lb adjustable switch from NX Express.

0359F3F0-D07B-4E05-8869-0678BAEA6B2A.jpeg


0C2847DD-6F5D-436A-8061-AFC1087E9487.png


6AE368DD-31BB-44D6-9E26-8609A2A1EF53.png


7D7819D1-ACC5-434D-AEC9-66AC950EA0E7.jpeg
 
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I am in the process of doing an A518 swap in my 68 Barracuda. For the guys running a similar set up, do you have toggle switches for the overdrive and lockup? Or do you run an automatic OD and L/U set up?
Which do you prefer and and why? I am looking at a PATC kit (link below), or running rocker switches.

PATC 727 to 518 / 46RH Conversion Kit. Click here for 727 to 46RH swap wiring diagram

View attachment 1715454712
I wish PATC made that kit for the A500. They said their A518 kit wont work on an A500.
 
Hey Y’all how’s it going?
I have a 42rh out of a Dakota. Where can I find a wiring diagram that shows what all the wires are?
Round plug with 3 pins &
Oval plug with 3 pins
Thanks in advance

The oval plug when installed.
Center wire is ignition switched hot feed
Fwd wire is lockup solenoid
Rear wire is O/D solenoid
Transmission case is ground return.

Round plug on the side is neutral safety/reverse light switch. Its pinned the same way as your stock wiring, that one you just plug in your body wiring, and done.
 
Thank you. Though, my original wiring only had a single wire Neutral/Park switch. Reverse wiring was on the shifter itself. IIRC
 
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