A518 Flex Plate Help???

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switchblade02

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Ok, so I just swapped out a 727 Non-lockup trans in my 73 340 duster for a lockup 518 trans. I went to bolt the flex plate to the torque converter, and only 3 of the 4 bolts will line up. I tried the different position, and still it wont line up. I looks like one of the bolt holes on the flexplate is offset, and is causing the problem. So my question is, what do I do now. Am I going to need a different torque converter, or flexplate? Any help would be much appreciated, cause I just can't figure it out.
 
Up thru 96 I think Joe.
97 and newer A518s (actually a 46RE) have a symetrical pattern.

What year did you get your Trans from? (crossed fingers)
The 46RE requires the computer to control shifting.
I hope you have also considerd the balance difference from the LA motor and the Magnum.
 
abodyjoe said:
one hole is offset on all flexplates. the flexplate/converter only lines up one way.
Click to expand...

Well that's defiantly good to know. But I have tried every possible way and I just can't get the thing to line up with all 4 of the holes on the converter. I think I am going to need a new flex plate anyways though, because I was looking at the converter off my 727 and it was two balance weights between the drain, and the new lockup one I got with the 518 has no weights. Does this mean I will need to get one of those B&M flex plates?? If so, what would be the part number for the one I would need to get? My 340 has a cast crank.
 
charger70 said:
Up thru 96 I think Joe.
97 and newer A518s (actually a 46RE) have a symetrical pattern.

What year did you get your Trans from? (crossed fingers)
The 46RE requires the computer to control shifting.
I hope you have also considerd the balance difference from the LA motor and the Magnum.
Click to expand...

Well, it only has the one 3 wire plug coming from the trans, so that would mean it's a 46rh non computer controlled right?? I am not sure what year the trans is from, but does it make a difference, if its indeed a 46rh?
 
Hum, I wonder if I was sent the wrong converter. I was just looking at the box it came in and it says Recon: CR94 (I'm guessing thats the part number) then below that it says TC, A518, A618, 46/47/48RE, 11". It does not say anything about RH, so could that be my problem??
 
The 3 wire indicates an RH but The symetrical pattern converter is a clue that its 97/newer. -46RE-
The RE converter would also be unweighted/neutral.
Meaning you will need a balanced flexplate for the LA 360 or weld on weights to the new converter.
That won't matter tho unless you find a stand alone computer to run the RE.

Yes, balance is a factor in either case. the Magnum and LA are different weights.
You can use the B/M balanced flex plate for the LA, and knock the weights off the converter to make it neutral.
Or get the 360LA weight kit and change the balance on the converter.
But not on a symetrical bolt pattern, cause you have a 75% chance of bolting the converter to the flexplate in the wrong position.
Thats the whole reason for the one lug being offset. -no mistake possible-
 
switchblade02 said:
Hum, I wonder if I was sent the wrong converter. I was just looking at the box it came in and it says Recon: CR94 (I'm guessing thats the part number) then below that it says TC, A518, A618, 46/47/48RE, 11". It does not say anything about RH, so could that be my problem??
Click to expand...

AH HA!! Yes.
That just leaves the consideration about the balance.
I expect a reconditioned converter for an RH will come balanced for the Magnum.
 
Ok, so I will ship it back, and tell them I need a RH torque converter, not RE. So, now about the balance, what would you suggest I do? Should I just get a B&M flex plate? And with the B&M, is it already properly balanced, or is their adjustments needed. Also, charger70 did you get a chance to check out the torsion bar cross member that goes up and around the trans? Tell me what you think. I think it should hold up. Thanks for all your help so far, it's much appreciated.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=41875
 
Doh!! on ME!!
My post was about a 360 not a 340. My brain got crossed up for a sec there.
The same rule still applies to the 340.
On an internal balance 340, just knock off the converter weights and bolt it together.
On your cast 340, You could use your flexplate and the weights from your 340 converter.
After knocking the magnum weights off, weld the 340 weights onto the same spot on the a518 converter relative to that offset lug.
The B/M balanced flexplate for the cast crank 340 is the other alternative. You will still need to knock the magnum weights off the converter tho. Just the biguns. The little thinner postage size ones, if there are any, need to stay.

2. The reinforcement looks good, but I can't give it a complete thumbs up without being there, I can't tell how well he connected the new work thru the floor to the xmember.
The floor skin is only spot welded to the Xmember so the welds have to go all the way thru or they are just laying on the top of the skin.
Did he weld the reinforcing pipe thru the xmember?
 
charger70 said:
Doh!! on ME!!
My post was about a 360 not a 340. My brain got crossed up for a sec there.
The same rule still applies to the 340.
On an internal balance 340, just knock off the converter weights and bolt it together.
On your cast 340, You could use your flexplate and the weights from your 340 converter.
After knocking the magnum weights off, weld the 340 weights onto the same spot on the a518 converter relative to that offset lug.
The B/M balanced flexplate for the cast crank 340 is the other alternative. You will still need to knock the magnum weights off the converter tho. Just the biguns. The little thinner postage size ones, if there are any, need to stay.

2. The reinforcement looks good, but I can't give it a complete thumbs up without being there, I can't tell how well he connected the new work thru the floor to the xmember.
The floor skin is only spot welded to the Xmember so the welds have to go all the way thru or they are just laying on the top of the skin.
Did he weld the reinforcing pipe thru the xmember?
Click to expand...

Yea, he welded in the reinforcing pipe through the xmember. I didn't really like how the new xmember was attached to the orginal either, but I think it will be fine. I am just going to keep a close eye on it, and if it even looks like its going to come apart, I will take it right back to the guy and make sure he fixes it. For the converter, I am just going to order a new. What do you think about the converters from http://www.transmissioncenter.net/dodge.htm? It says to let them know what engine its going on, so I am hopeing that means they will balance it for me, so I can just use my 727 flexplate with it. I just cant decided on what stall to go with. Would I be ok with 2800, or what would you recommend?
 
I had a good conversation with Dynamic,TCI and SMR last week about Lockup converters. Looks like 2800 is about all the lu converter can give due to internal manufacturing limits. I have a TCI 2500 and was hoping to get even more, like 3200 to 3500 cause my powerband comes on at 3000rpm.

This is not necessary-just something to think about.
I know its 80+ bucks more for a balanced flexplate for the 340, but...
then you can get a neutral balance converter. If you ever need to or want to swap engines to a 360LA 360Mag or internal bal 318 or 340. you just need a different flexplate. you dont need to mess with the converter again.

I didnt go back and look at your other thread so I'll maybe say something here you already know. the 518 produces more heat so its recommended to make 3/8 cooling lines and use an external cooler.
 
Ok, so I should be ok with a 2800 stall from http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm then right? I will just go ahead and get a b&m flex plate to go with it. Does it come already pre balanced to work with my setup though? Also, I grabed some 3/8 lines off dodge van when I was at the junk yard last, so I will be using those, and then I got the largest cooler I could fit too, made by TCI. I also installed a trans temp gauge, so I can keep an eye on the temp. I installed the temp sensor in the pan of the trans, so what would be the normal temp for the 518?
 
Hum, well I was just looking at the TCI conveters on summitracing, and now I am thinking of just getting one of the TCI breakaway conveters. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=TCI-141250&N=700+115&autoview=sku Is this the one you went with? And if I got this one, what would I need to do for balanceing? It says it for the 93-95 Chrysler A518LU Lockup, so would that mean it would a direct bolt in and already balanced correctly, so I could just use my stock 727 flex plate with it? Also I am not plainning on ever changing out the engine on this car.
 
The TCI 141250 is the one I have. 2500stall.
It is neutral balance and requires a balanced flexplate. More bucks.

TCI-141253 Is listed as "external balance" which I believe is balanced for the magnum motor. Maybe you could ask to have TCI balance it to your 340. Maybe more bucks, maybe not. I assume its more expensive due to it being balanced already.

Both have the correct bolt pattern, but neither have the correct balance.
Its the same thing I ran up against 1 1/2 yrs ago.

Was that company, PATC, in the ballpark pricewise?
Perhaps they would do the 2800 stall and balance too.

Try putting a request on here for a used balanced flexplate?

Don't know about temp, I'm not monitoring, I just made sure the cooler is bigger than the truck I got it from.
 
when i built the 360 for my scamp i got a weight balance package from mancini for 20 bucks. It was very easy to install on the converter. not sure if this is the same for the 340s but i think it is. good luck
 
charger70 said:
The TCI 141250 is the one I have. 2500stall.
It is neutral balance and requires a balanced flexplate. More bucks.

TCI-141253 Is listed as "external balance" which I believe is balanced for the magnum motor. Maybe you could ask to have TCI balance it to your 340. Maybe more bucks, maybe not. I assume its more expensive due to it being balanced already.

Both have the correct bolt pattern, but neither have the correct balance.
Its the same thing I ran up against 1 1/2 yrs ago.

Was that company, PATC, in the ballpark pricewise?
Perhaps they would do the 2800 stall and balance too.

Try putting a request on here for a used balanced flexplate?

Don't know about temp, I'm not monitoring, I just made sure the cooler is bigger than the truck I got it from.
Click to expand...

Yea, I think I will give PATC a call tomorrow, to see what they can do first. If I do end up going with the TCI one like you got, would the B&M flex plate be the one to get for the balance that I would need? Would this be the correct one to get? http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BMM-10235&autoview=sku Also just wondering if you would happen to know why the converters from PATC are priced so much lower then the TCI one, when the TCI has a lower stall. Do you think the TCI is just built better or something? I don't mind paying the higher price, if it's going to be better. I am just a little worried about the lower stall with the TCI. Do you think I will be fine with it. My 340 has a mild cam in it, by claysmith with a .450 lift. I also have an edelbrock airgap intake, with a holley 4 barrel carb and TTI headers. I am eventually planning on putting fuel injection on it. The rear end is stock as far as I know. It is posi traction . I am just going to use the car as a street car and only race it once in a great while. So, I don't know what stall would be best for my setup. What would you say? I appreciate your help very much, cause I am just so lost when it comes to this stuff.
 
I really doubt that you would notice the difference in 2500 or 2800.
If there was I'd be buying one and selling the one I have. but It's not worth all the work and xpense for such a little gain.
If yours is a 73 cast crank like you said earlier, then yes the 10235 is the one I'd get along with a neutral converter.

I haven't dealt with nor do I know any good or bad about PATC's converters. I did buy their vacuum disengage kit for when you floor it. It works good but you can just as easily reach over and flip off a switch.
By the way I'm runnin 3.91s and 2300rpm at 65.

TCI can charge a little more for their Name recognition, and maybe deserve it, I dont know. They were the only ones I found that had a higher stall lockup back then.
I was on my own then, didn't know about FABO.
 
charger70 said:
I really doubt that you would notice the difference in 2500 or 2800.
If there was I'd be buying one and selling the one I have. but It's not worth all the work and xpense for such a little gain.
If yours is a 73 cast crank like you said earlier, then yes the 10235 is the one I'd get along with a neutral converter.

I haven't dealt with nor do I know any good or bad about PATC's converters. I did buy their vacuum disengage kit for when you floor it. It works good but you can just as easily reach over and flip off a switch.
By the way I'm runnin 3.91s and 2300rpm at 65.

TCI can charge a little more for their Name recognition, and maybe deserve it, I dont know. They were the only ones I found that had a higher stall lockup back then.
I was on my own then, didn't know about FABO.
Click to expand...

Ok, cool I think I am just going to get the TCI converter, and the B&M plate then. Now, with the TCI converter, are thier going to be weights that I will need to knock off? On summits page it says it's balanced.
 
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