A518 Kickdown Cable & Mount Help??

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switchblade02

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Hi, I had a question about the kickdown cable from BPE. I am in the process of putting a A518 trans into my 73 duster, and I am having an issue with hooking up the kickdown cable to the trans. I got the kickdown cable kit from BPE, and the bracket that mounts to the trans seems too short, because with the cable clipped to it, it hits the trans cooler line. It looks like if the bracket was a little taller, it would clear the cooler line, and also be more inline (better angled). I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue and how they solved it? Do they make a taller bracket, or could I just put in a spacer to raise the bracket up? Any suggestions would be great. I also had a question about the trans mount that I had made up to hold the A518. The shop that made it for me said it would be more than strong enough to keep everything together. I asked if I should have a flat piece of steel welded up and around the top of the trans to the floor, to reinforce the torsion cross member kind of like the original, and he said no, and that the trans mount he made would be more than strong enough to keep everything together. The mount he made is defiantly very strong a heavy duty, but I was just worried about not having anything going up and around the trans like the original had. What do you guys think, do you think it should be fine? I posted some pics. Thanks in advance for the help and advice.:cheers:

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I cant see where a slight downward angle on that cable will matter. Better than upward for sure.
Whether that support is gonna move or not is any ones guess. I would consider the torque direction comming from the torsion bars combined with weight or stress from the trans.
 
Your trans mount is much beefier than the one I have in my car. I think you should be fine. However, I would weld those subframe connectors in if they aren't already.

In my car, there is a flat strap welded in place of the original trans tunnel loop. It is welded on both sides, and to the underside of the tunnel floor.

What WILL be tricky is getting your exhaust pipes around that mount. That is were we got in to trouble on mount v1.0 for my car.
 
I'm with Redfish.
I worked in an autobody frameshop for awhile,and this makes me nervous!!
The loads from the torsion bars, plus the weight of that very heavy OD trans, plus the added weight of the fabbed up mount itself are all pushing down on the center.
I will concede that if there is no rust anywhere on the remaining crossmember and the car is not hammered on it "might" hold up.
But some crossmember rust, a few rough roads, and a little time, I can guarantee that tranny will be digging up asphalt.
To go the route you have with no "up and over", I'd like to see a reinforcement plate incorporated(welded) to the crossmember that is also welded firmly to the torsion bar tubes. The mount should have the bolts further apart(too much load in one area). Do that on front and rear, and then do the other side the same.
Go to a post by Old Geezzer, "5.9 magnum in a 73 duster" for some crossmember reinforcement photos.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=41302
On the Linkage? I think a spacer and longer bolt will be fine.
Good luck.
 
I had the same problem but with a different kit. I just used a longer bolt and put some washers under the tab. It doesn't have a lot of stress on it. As for the X-member. I agree with everyone else that you need some support across the top where the uni-body was removed. Torque stress from the t-bars along with normal frame twist will cause the whole thing to twist.
 
Another thought brought on another question.
Are there new reinforcements thru the crossmember where the new mount bolts on?
If not there is less crossmember strength also.
 
Hi, thanks for all the replies. The mount is using two of the original bolt holes, (one on each side). The new holes that were made don't have a pipe through them, like the original, but I will defiantly be adding one, for the extra support, and to keep the frame from crushing together. A piece of steel pipe should do the trick right?? Also, about the upper cross member, I was also afraid that the structure would be weaken, without having anything up and around, but I figured I would ask on this forum first, just to be sure. I took the car back to the guy that did the trans cross member, and told him that I would like some flat steel welded up and around the trans, like the original was. I just told him that I would like to have it done just so I could feel better about it and not have to worry when I am driving it, because I would hate to get the car all back together and have the trans and everything come crashing down, all because of no top support. I told him to cut the floor or do whatever he needs to, in order to make it as strong as possible. He will also be installing my new b&m shifter for me. I brought him some pics, from this forum, so he could see what I wanted done. I also, asked if he could weld in the subframes that I currently just have bolted in place, and he told me he would take care of everything. I will post some pics as soon as I get the car back. Also I tested fitted my exhaust, and it actually clears the trans cross member that he made perfectly, and it seems much more stronger and beefier then the original. I can't wait to get her back on the road again with the new trans in place.:-D

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Glad to hear that.:thumbup:
A thickwall pipe will do the trick, but make sure the pipe is fully welded to the frame around both ends.
I'll sleep better now, thx:sleepy1:
 
Well, I got the car back today, and it turned out sweet. He cut the floor, and ran steel up and around the trany and a welded to the top ends on the original t-bar crossmember that was cut. So, part of the floor is now the torsion bar crossmember. It's welded all the way around on both sides to the floor. It got too dark before I had a chance to take pics, but I will get them tomorrow and post them, to see what you guys think. To me it looks like it will work, and definitely seems to be much stronger then stock. I also had the sub frames weld in.
 
Well, here she is. Tell me what you guys think. I was also able to solve the kickdown bracket problem. I took a trip to the junk yard, and got the brackets off a dodge van, and it was the perfect set up to fit onto mine. The only thing now is I need to have a custom console made to go around my B&M shifter. I'm hoping a carpet shop will be able to make one up.

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superdart said:
Wow, that's never going anywhere.
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That's what I was hoping to hear. Here is what I am thinking for a center console. I made it out of cardboard for now, I just need to add a few things, and then I think I will try to build it myself, following my template. I hope it turns out ok.

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I'm putting a 518 in my 69 barracuda fastback SB and was wondering what i needed in terms of aftermarket cables. Does this swap REQUIRE different kickdown cable, speedo cable, etc? I had a 904 previous to this swap.

Thanks in advance,
Grant
 
"I'm putting a 518 in my 69 barracuda fastback SB and was wondering what i needed in terms of aftermarket cables. Does this swap REQUIRE different kickdown cable, speedo cable, etc? I had a 904 previous to this swap."

bump
 
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