About to start rear end swap... a few questions?

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2112

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I have never attempted this before, so if someone could give me some input it would be great!
I still have the stock slant 6 leaf springs on my car, so I bought some XHD Mancni Springs to swap with the rear end. Should this be a pretty simple swap over?
Also... I bought new 4.5" axles, when I swap those over that should just be a simple swap too, right? I shouldn't have to do any adjusting with the gears, would I?
Now for the really stupid question... Where do I put in the rear end oil? Is there a filler tube on the rear end itself?

Thanks much!!
 
Well you didn't say what rearend your installing? I assume a 8 3/4? It is an easy swap, you will need to shorten your driveshaft. The axles aren't that big of deal either, if your using stock axle bearings, no big deal. If you are using green style bearings you may need to remove the axle trust buttons or block from the third member.
 
Yes, sorry it's a 8 3/4 swap. It had (has) a 8 1/4 in it now. Some people said that the driveshaft I have MAY just work... if used temporarily.
The stock 4" axles actually have green bearings (someone must have changed them at some point?) So these 4.5" axles should just slide in and go, huh? Well... and the brake conversion.

What about the gear oil? Is there a fill tube? How do you know how much to use?

Thanks!
 
Fill it in the side plug until it is level with the hole you are filling it at. You will need different hand brake cables for the larger brakes. Advanced auto . You will also need to get 8 3/4 spring plates and u-bolts. Also depending on what size eyes ore on the springs you are getting , you will need the larger spring hangers front and rear. I have most parts you will need if you can't find them near you. Oh yeah your drive shaft will not work it will be to long . Steve
 
if you need a set of u bolts and shock plates...i got a set...i am leaving Vegas at noon monday...

they are Free .........
 
what backing plates and brakes are you using?

and what drums are you using?
 
I am using the ones from my 8 1/4. From what I've read everything should swap over.

As far as U bolts and shock plates, I guess Ill have to find out when I get that fast? This is pretty much a rust free car so all the old parts are in really good shape. I thought I could just swap those parts over as well. However you guys think ill need a differnt size??

Thanks!
 
Before I forget as well, I have new Green Bearings installed new on my axles, do they need greasing before I install? Should I lube up the third member as well? What kind of grease should I look for?
Should I use gasket sealer on the third member?

Thanks!
 
ok from experience and readiong ALOT the backing plates are a swap over, the drums wont because its small bolt pattern but you can get them redrilled, the e brake cables are fine, you dont have too grease the green bearings they are a sealed bearing you dont have to lube up the third member.. which car is this if its a 108 wb dart demon duster the driveshaft should be 49 in from center of you joint to center of you joint whith a 904 trans, a 727 trans is alot longer so the driveshasft is alot shorter, the shock moutn plates from your 8 1/4 will work and the u bolts but you can get new u bolts at autozone, as long as the u bolts from you old rear end are 3 in diemeter they will work i think they are... is this a sure grip reasr if so you need friction additives mixed in with the gear oil oyu use, you should only need about 2-2 1/2 quarts of the gear oil fill it from the drain plug until it starts leaking out and you topped offthats it.......
 
How do you get that e-brake cable off?? URGH!!
I can't get that thing off!

Also... I was going to take the 8 1/4 axle out, and I saw that there is a gold clip in the case that seems to be holding the axle in place. Is there a way to got that clip out so the axle can come out?

I'm kind of stuck :(

Thanks a lot!
 
Slide a wrench over the e brake spring that tight like a 12 13 mi or 1/2 in you should be able to compress all of the little metal peices in then slide the cable out
 
I think I did this correct... BUT!! with the lock nut washers on the nuts only fit on 3/4 way. If I take the lock nuts off then the bolts fit all the way on. The bottom bolt seems longer. That one fits fine.
What should I do?

Also, the seal on the Green bearing was a tight fit. I had to take a board and a hammer and tap it in there. It was pretty tight because of the seal. Is that normal?

Here are some pics... Does this look ok?

Thanks!
 

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Thanks! looking at it I think I forgot that end gasket in there? Whoops! I guess I'd have to rip out that whole shaft now, huh? It's in there tight with that O Ring on the bearing!
 
I think I would lose the lock washers so you can get more thread contact on the studs. Your shock plates will work, you might have to loosen the adjustment on the e brake cable a smidge if you experience difficulty getting your shoes on.
 
I use Loctite on those nuts.

Come to think of it, there's not alot of chassis assembly-type threads I don't use Loctite on.
 
2112 said:
Yes, sorry it's a 8 3/4 swap. It had (has) a 8 1/4 in it now. Some people said that the driveshaft I have MAY just work... if used temporarily.
The stock 4" axles actually have green bearings (someone must have changed them at some point?) So these 4.5" axles should just slide in and go, huh? Well... and the brake conversion.

What about the gear oil? Is there a fill tube? How do you know how much to use?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I would check the measurement of your driveshaft. What does it measure from the center of the front cap to the center of the rear cap? The last thing you want is for it to be too long you can damage the tailstock on the trans. Mine measures 48 and 3/4 inches center to center.

What car are we working on?
 
It's a 74 Duster, with a 904 tranny.


The gasket im speaking of is the one that should be behind the silver plate that is bolted down in the picture.
 
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