69413valiant
Well-Known Member
Im going to be running the master cyl off of a chrysler 5 ave with the plastic reservoir in my 69 valiant. Do I need to use a adjustable brake push rod? Im already running 73-up brakes.
Remove the switch until you bolt the pedal up. Then install and adjust the switch (slotted hole). The switch shouldn't interfere w/ pedal motion, just sense it.... its screwing up the switch. ... If I use a shorter push rod, will it pull the piston too far out? Will I have enough throw??
Jim
Too much pedal travel may indicate a problem.Does the Throw diminish with multiple stabs on the pedal?Does the pedal feel spongy?Has the throw been increasing over time? If there is a yes in there anywhere, your brakes are not right.Fix that first.
Im going to be running the master cyl off of a chrysler 5 ave with the plastic reservoir in my 69 valiant. Do I need to use a adjustable brake push rod? Im already running 73-up brakes.
When I Installed a late model master cylinder with the 4 to 2 bolt adapter, I installed an adjustable rod. I had to adjust the brake light switch.
Remove the switch until you bolt the pedal up. Then install and adjust the switch (slotted hole). The switch shouldn't interfere w/ pedal motion, just sense it.
The brake pedal doesn't push or pull the MC piston (unless you use your foot). The MC should position the rod w/ its spring and stops. The pedal just goes along for the ride. You only need a different length rod if the pedal doesn't sit where you want it. Ex., you don't want the pedal bottoming out on the floor before the MC hits its stop, and you don't want it sitting way above the gas pedal, unless you drive w/ 2 feet (like I do and they might now teach in driver's ed). Thus, neither rod, nor pedal, nor switch should affect or interfere w/ the "throw". It is common sense once you understand this.
I understand the concept. But it seems to me that their should be the locking grommet on the end of the push rod into the master cylinder. the pushrod now just floats freely. So, if my foot comes off the brake and pulls the pedal up a little too far, it pushes on the switch and locks the brake lights on.
I've ordered the bushing/grommet for the pushrod, just not sure that it will fit in the slot inside the MC.
Thanks.
Jim
pushing on the switch shuts the brake lights off.
yes use the little rubber thing inside the new mc. its dangerous not to have it lock in the master cyl. you pull up on the pedal and the rod falls out of the mc. then you have no brakes.
i'm thinking they are but i'm not sure.. i got mine from RMS when i did my change over.
i went from the mc you pictured (73-up disc brake mc) to the newer alum with plastic mc and used the same push rod and new grommet.
Abodyjoe, is the manual pushrod different from a 65 as opposed to a 73? Asking because I'll be making this swap soon
Reconditioned brake pedal to master cylinder pushrod, for manual brake applications, includes pushrod, nut and bolt with new o-ring, and locking grommet for master cylinder. Fits all 1963-76 A-body applications, measures 6 1/2" overall length. As available.
... Does anyone know if a rebuilt/replacement 1979 or newer (non-front wheel drive) MC with the stock manual rod?
Bill, I pulled the "do not use master cylinders from FWD cars" from this MOPAR ACTION tech article: http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html
The exact mechanical reason was not stated but, since the used a "!" at the end of that statement I figured there was a real good reason.
Thank you for the pictures and input.