Advice on ‘74 Duster

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ledman

'74 Duster 360
Joined
Jun 4, 2014
Messages
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86
Location
Las Vegas NV
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it’s a ‘74 Duster, it originally a /6 bucket seat console car with non-power disc brakes. Fold down rear seat built in Canada to US specs

It now has a mildly built 360, not sure what year the motor is yet but, he did send me pics of the numbers off the block to verify it is a 360.

He says the trans has a shift kit and not sure what the rear gears are or what trans it has for that matter other than it’s a 3 speed auto which all autos were.

I haven’t seen it in person yet, but the seller sent me a video and it sure sounds sweet. Has electric cutouts.

Not sure why they put a 340 decal on the car when it has a 360 motor!?
Has ac but he says it needs re-charged and checked for leaks but says the compressor isn’t locked up as it spins and engages but no cold air.

Fuel gauge and hood tach work and it has aftermarket gauges for oil pressure and water temp.
He says paint is fading and has a few small bubbles in both quarters but no rot or rust, no dents and bumper have good chrome California car it’s whole life.

Anyways he is asking $15,000 USD and says he can come down a little.

So many dusters I see are 20k plus or really need ALLOT of work and they still want 10 grand.
Just looking for advice and thoughts
Thanks!

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A couple bits of info- I would ask if he changed the rear end because it came with a 7 1/4. The red in the interior is incorrect and pretty much devalues the car a little. Is the front suspension still factory or were there improvements? That being said, the color is very nice, and it has buckets and a console. Check for rust and see how it runs. I would offer 12,000 if everthing checks out ok
 
A couple bits of info- I would ask if he changed the rear end because it came with a 7 1/4. The red in the interior is incorrect and pretty much devalues the car a little. Is the front suspension still factory or were there improvements? That being said, the color is very nice, and it has buckets and a console. Check for rust and see how it runs. I would offer 12,000 if everthing checks out ok

He doesn’t know what rear end it has and nothing is really correct on this car seeing what it used to be.
What’s the easiest way to check if it’s a posi or not, other than doing a burnout?
He said the suspension is stock but looks to be in good condition and says the car tracks straight and no werid noises. The car is about 4 hours away from me so I need to make time to go and see it.
 
Look up 8 1/4 rear end, 8 3/4, and 7 1/4. See which one you have. It does not have to be a sure grip (posi) 7 1/4 is just a little weak
 
So, straight off the bat, if you’re buying this car with any kind of “investment” rationale I would say it’s not a great choice. It’s a non-numbers matching slant 6 car and a ‘74 to boot. So not a desirable year or model, and it’s already near the top of its value for what it is. So if you have visions of making money on resale, probably not gonna happen.

That said, if you’re buying it as a driver, it may be a great choice. It has a number of options, it’s already a big bolt pattern disk car, has AC, etc. If the paint is in decent enough condition that you don’t have to repaint it, you probably couldn’t build it for the asking price. Assuming it’s been done at least fairly well. Buying a slant six car, converting it to a V8 and painting it for less than $15k isn’t a slam dunk if you do a good job or if you have to pay someone else to do it.

On that note, you have to really inspect this car. It’s had a bunch of work done to it with the V8 conversion. If it’s been done well, awesome. If it’s been cobbled together on the cheap, not awesome. If that’s the case, it could easily be more trouble than it’s worth.

So you really have to pay attention. How was the engine mounted? What radiator is in the car? What rear axle? Was any of the suspension upgraded? That’s all stuff that could cost you money. To me, just looking at the engine compartment, it looks like they had access to a V8 donor car. There’s a bunch of original looking V8 stuff there. But the pictures are pretty small.

Bottom line is, you have to inspect this car or have it inspected by someone that knows what to look for. If it looks fairly clean and well put together, and you’re looking for something to drive and enjoy, it might not be a bad deal if you can negotiate down a few grand from the asking price.
 
So, straight off the bat, if you’re buying this car with any kind of “investment” rationale I would say it’s not a great choice. It’s a non-numbers matching slant 6 car and a ‘74 to boot. So not a desirable year or model, and it’s already near the top of its value for what it is. So if you have visions of making money on resale, probably not gonna happen.

That said, if you’re buying it as a driver, it may be a great choice. It has a number of options, it’s already a big bolt pattern disk car, has AC, etc. If the paint is in decent enough condition that you don’t have to repaint it, you probably couldn’t build it for the asking price. Assuming it’s been done at least fairly well. Buying a slant six car, converting it to a V8 and painting it for less than $15k isn’t a slam dunk if you do a good job or if you have to pay someone else to do it.

On that note, you have to really inspect this car. It’s had a bunch of work done to it with the V8 conversion. If it’s been done well, awesome. If it’s been cobbled together on the cheap, not awesome. If that’s the case, it could easily be more trouble than it’s worth.

So you really have to pay attention. How was the engine mounted? What radiator is in the car? What rear axle? Was any of the suspension upgraded? That’s all stuff that could cost you money. To me, just looking at the engine compartment, it looks like they had access to a V8 donor car. There’s a bunch of original looking V8 stuff there. But the pictures are pretty small.

Bottom line is, you have to inspect this car or have it inspected by someone that knows what to look for. If it looks fairly clean and well put together, and you’re looking for something to drive and enjoy, it might not be a bad deal if you can negotiate down a few grand from the asking price.


Yeah I’m not a numbers matching guy really. I’m not looking to make money on it or anything like that I want it for me to have fun with and if and when I’m decide, if eve, I’m done with it, I’ll sell it for what I can get.

I’m looking for a fun driver. The guy selling it bought it to flip it so he doesn’t know allot about it but has been very forthcoming in answering my questions.
I’m Sorry the pics are so small I don’t know how to make them bigger.
When I go look at it I am having a friend come with me, he knows what to look for in a car with a swapped engine. I feel the seller has been very upfront honest with me about what the car is and he has never claimed it to be an original matching numbers 340 car or anything like that, mainly because I know they didn’t use the 340 anymore after ‘73 and it actually has a 360 which he sent me pics of the block stampings to verify. Many try to pass a 318 for a 340/360.
He says the paint is fading but still looks good but will eventually need re-Painted.
Says it drives good but only way to tell is for me to go look at it.

I just see allot of dusters in the same price range of 12–15k that look like crap compared to this one.
 
Bubbling in the paint is almost always rust.
In some cases, there was decorative trim on the car that was removed.... then the trim mounting clips were removed and body filler was spread over the hole. Over time, that filler can swell and cause a bubble.
Some slant six cars came with the 8 1/4" axle. It is not that common but some did. ALL 8 1/4" axles were 10" drums and big bolt pattern.
ALL the automatics available were 3 speed.

The car probably has 340 decals because the 340 is a legendary engine. The 360 came along when performance was not as big of a priority so putting 360 decals on the car may not attract as many buyers.

Price? Heck...If I could get $20,000 for my 71 Duster 340 clone when I am done, I'll be all wiggly! They have risen THIS high now?

I love these cars. I've had a few. I've always bought them CHEAP and got them running myself with junkyard engines and transmissions. I had a 73 that I used in a home movie I did in the late 90s...I had more fun in that car than any other car in my life. I drove it like Bo Duke with almost no regard for scratches or dings. Learning that some are worth over $10,000 now really amazes me.

The '73-76 Duster is still a good looking car. With a little work, you can fit '73 bumpers on it. The '74-76 bumpers are heavy and not as sleek looking.
 
I have a number matching 1974 slant car with ac ,rally wheels all original nice looking good
paint and only 100,000 miles could only insure it for 7000$ max and had to send 20 high quality pics to a historic car ins company and if I wanted more ,would make a appraisal to see car in person . so I think the price is over inflated
 
That rear axle spotters guide is a drawing. The depictions for the 7 1/4", 8 1/4", and 9 1/4" are not exactly how they look. The 8 1/4" drawing is the worst. It makes the cover look much wider than it is in reality.
 
I uploaded the pics from my PC instead of my phone so they should be easier to see now.
I really like the car, and the video of it running, well it sounds amazing to me, a nice lump to the idle, and that gives me a lump in the front of my pants lol.
SOMEONE, put some money and time into this car...If they did the work themselves they saved allot of money, I think they probably still spent at least 15k in paint and parts. I am going to assume for the moment, if they went to the trouble to drop a 360 in and re-do the trans, and were smart enough to do that, you would and should upgrade the rear end. I can only hope that is the case.

I see some plain jane dusters that some one goosed in a 383 or 440 and the motor looks like it is sitting crooked, and the interior is a mess with a HUGE tach bolted to the dash pad lol, and all their soda bottles all over the floor and their cig packs on the seats and they want 12K or more. It will cost that much to un-do everything they did attempting to make it better.
 
Sounds like you really want it.....
You only live once. ....but try to talk him down if possible.
Nice car for sure...looks fun!

Jeff
 
If it looks as good in person as it does in pictures, I would agree with @TF360. You could probably get it for 12K. Crawl under to make sure the frame is solid. If you like it, if it drives well, and you have the funds... make it yours and drive the heck out of it!
 
Not a penny over $10,000.00
And that's a good offer

This clearly isn’t some rusty Michigan POS.

And it sure isn’t the same market. Maybe if all you rust belt guys shopped at home the prices would be better here. I don’t think you’ve got a clue what that car would actually bring here.

I have a number matching 1974 slant car with ac ,rally wheels all original nice looking good
paint and only 100,000 miles could only insure it for 7000$ max and had to send 20 high quality pics to a historic car ins company and if I wanted more ,would make a appraisal to see car in person . so I think the price is over inflated

So, your insurance company cheaped out and you didn’t get an appraisal? That doesn’t mean your car is worth $7k. Just means your insurance company doesn’t want to be on the hook for more than that, and you haven’t done the homework to convince them otherwise.

As for the car in question, I would totally expect it to bring more money than a numbers matching slant 6 car. And less than a matching numbers 360 car. Just the way it is. I’d pay more money for it than a numbers matching 73-76 slant 6 car, they just aren’t that valuable. Non-numbers, converted big block cars bring more money than matching 318 cars all the time.

I uploaded the pics from my PC instead of my phone so they should be easier to see now.
I really like the car, and the video of it running, well it sounds amazing to me, a nice lump to the idle, and that gives me a lump in the front of my pants lol.
SOMEONE, put some money and time into this car...If they did the work themselves they saved allot of money, I think they probably still spent at least 15k in paint and parts. I am going to assume for the moment, if they went to the trouble to drop a 360 in and re-do the trans, and were smart enough to do that, you would and should upgrade the rear end. I can only hope that is the case.

I see some plain jane dusters that some one goosed in a 383 or 440 and the motor looks like it is sitting crooked, and the interior is a mess with a HUGE tach bolted to the dash pad lol, and all their soda bottles all over the floor and their cig packs on the seats and they want 12K or more. It will cost that much to un-do everything they did attempting to make it better.

Way better pictures!

It does look like someone put some time and money into that car. It looks pretty well done. I’d still have to see it in person. And to be clear I don’t think it’s a $15k car, it would have to be darn near perfect to get that as a clone car.

But here’s the thing. If it looks as good in person as it does in the pictures and it runs well, you couldn’t build it for much less than $15k. So if it’s the car you want, and you can negotiate the seller down a bit, I don’t think it’s a terrible deal. It’s not like these cars are everywhere, if you find one you like and it’ll do what you want it to do, buy it if you can afford it.
 
Okay, those pictures are a LOT better! I see that the car already has the 1973 bumpers front and rear. Nice! I would prefer the dash pad and seat centers to be black, the red and black combo does not look good to me. That is my opinion. Still, a console shifted car, bucket seats, V8 and not a cobbled together mess is a desireable car.
 
Okay, those pictures are a LOT better! I see that the car already has the 1973 bumpers front and rear. Nice! I would prefer the dash pad and seat centers to be black, the red and black combo does not look good to me. That is my opinion. Still, a console shifted car, bucket seats, V8 and not a cobbled together mess is a desireable car.
Oh cool see I didn’t know it had the ‘73 bumpers so someone who did this car was obviously a MOPAR person, very cool. I won’t be able to see it for a couple of weeks and the guy and I talked and came to a tentative price pending inspection. $13,500.
I started at 12k and we haggled from there but again this is pending my inspection so as long as I don’t find anything werid about it when I drive it and look underneath I think I’ll be driving it home.

I also would prefer the dash to be black, I kinda like the red/black seats and they look to be in excellent condition. Not sure if they are original to the car or not, seller doesn’t know either.
This car was bought from a estate sale in Los Angeles by a company, and then they sold it to the guy I’m talking to who wants to flip it. He bought it without knowing 75% of what I already know about it.
 
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THis must be an exciting time for you...Feeling anxious and antsy to move on it. I get that way when I want to buy some cool car, even a parts car!
I am buying a wrecked 1970 Charger that has been sitting at least 10 years, maybe as long as 15.It is a low trim level XH29 car.
I bought my first one in 2000 for $1700 and it ran and drove great. It is an XP 29, a Charger 500. THIS recent one, just over 19 years later is $5000 and neither runs nor drives. The values on these cars had just exploded.
First pictures are of my XP car:
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THIS is the one I am buying. I am trying to pay for it with the money from selling parts here and on FBBO. I'm almost paid off!
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These new Challengers are great. In 2015 we ordered an R/T.
The WIFE holds the top speed in the car...
 
Sounds nice. The guy needs to learn how to properly record a video though. Vertical video sucks!
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The body of this car looks OK, but I would be cautious, the duct taped overflow tank, the location that the mounted the MSD box, and no battery hold down along with hard to say but smallish looking rad. Its not these things in particular its more that there appear to be cobbled and if the cobbled on these things then where else did the halve *** stuff, I would definitely go over this car close before buying. I learned that lesson from this site on a 69 Cuda I was thinking about.
 
The body of this car looks OK, but I would be cautious, the duct taped overflow tank, the location that the mounted the MSD box, and no battery hold down along with hard to say but smallish looking rad. Its not these things in particular its more that there appear to be cobbled and if the cobbled on these things then where else did the halve *** stuff, I would definitely go over this car close before buying. I learned that lesson from this site on a 69 Cuda I was thinking about.

That’s a heat shield on the overflow, not duct tape (check the lower picture). The radiator looks like a 22”, and it has the right outlet for a V8 radiator. It’s not a 19” /6 rad. It’s not a 26” like you’d find on the later AC cars but plenty of the V8 cars did fine with 22”. Lack of a battery hold down is an issue, but it may have just been an oversight. Maybe the battery needed a charge or was recently replaced, hard to say it’s always been like that from a couple pictures.

The car isn’t perfect by any means, I think those giant MSD boxes are completely unnecessary nowadays, way better and cleaner options available. But I don’t think “cobbled together” is a fair statement either based on the pictures.
 
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