Affordable Compressor Water Filter

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copper is used for AC lines and running in excess of 400 psi.
 
I'm doing the trans cooler and water separator part of this install and if it isn't enough, I'll add the copper on the wall. About $100 for the cooler and filter, plus a little soft copper tube and fittings.

 
gzig5 said:
I'm doing the trans cooler and water separator part of this install

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How much psi can a trans cooler stand? I didn’t see the links on exactly which one he used, interesting idea.
 
Backally said:
How much psi can a trans cooler stand? I didn’t see the links on exactly which one he used, interesting idea.
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I think I looked on the Derale site and it was 200+psi? I know I looked and was satisfied with the answer. It is essentially a copper tube that snakes back and forth with fins bonded on

I forgot to mention if you watch it on Youtube, there is a parts list in the comments section for everything he used. Very helpful

Edit....
Here is the cooler. 250 psi working, 300 burst
Remote Mount : 16 Pass 16" Tube & Fin Electra-Cool Replacement Cooler, -8AN
 
when using hard copper lines as coolers, another tip is to use sections of 1x1 or 2x4 as stand offs so the tubing is not mounted flush to the wall. That allows air to circulate around the diameter of the tube.
 
grimreaper said:
These are good for catching the water and final filtering air. Motor Guard: Air Management
I made a coil of 1/2"X 20ft pipe with air fittings on each end. I then just put a regular airline water trap on the outlet. It allows the air to cool enough for the water to drop out and be removed by the separator. Just being air cooled, and possibly the spinning air, works pretty well for getting water out. The coil is small enough and tight enough to fit in a five gallon bucket so if I'm painting I can put it in a bucket and add a couple of bags of ice and top the bucket with water. It then works like a refrigerated separator and makes a regular bowl style water filter very effective.
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I am also looking for a cheap way out for painting parts. Would something like this be an option? $65.00 on Amazon. Already made "wort chiller". 1/2 X 25' (9" wide) 5 gallon pal?
41RSc30Ze6L.jpg
 
Woody'sScamp said:
I am also looking for a cheap way out for painting parts. Would something like this be an option? $65.00 on Amazon. Already made "wort chiller". 1/2 X 25' (9" wide) 5 gallon pal?
View attachment 1715403798
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I think that one is for making Moonshine! :eek: Seriously! However, I can see where it would work if you put it down in a bucket with ice covering it.
 
That should work. Anything that can get the air cool enough so it can't hold the water will surely help. The coil will also use centrifigal force to "push" the seperated water out once the cool temp has caused it to drop out. Then it will be easily removed by a regular water seperator.9
 
grimreaper said:
That should work. Anything that can get the air cool enough so it can't hold the water will surely help. The coil will also use centrifigal force to "push" the seperated water out once the cool temp has caused it to drop out. Then it will be easily removed by a regular water seperator.9
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Although it would be best to go ahead and put a drain (maybe with a reservoir) in the lowest level.
 
JDMopar said:
I think that one is for making Moonshine! :eek: Seriously! However, I can see where it would work if you put it down in a bucket with ice covering it.
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I just bought a used compressor so I'm trying to find the cheapest way to paint a few small part and maybe a fender or two. What I was thinking, plum this right and just use with ice when I'm painting? Obviously I think I'd need the filter/regulator and decisient filter after this. Still undecided? I do not have a lot of air tools. I was thinking air in on the bottom and air out on the top in a 5 gallon bucket? A couple of flexible hoses? Someone say which way. Thanks,
Woody
 
With the one I made of pipe I was unable to notice a difference regarding the inlet and outlet. I hooked it up both ways and couldn't determine if one way is better than another. It's currently hooked up with the bottom as inlet but I sandblasted on a humid day for two hours one way and switched for two hours and accumulated almost the exact same amounts of water in my manual drain water separator. The main thing is to get the air cooled down so it can't hold the water beyond your filter.
 
really cheap trick I use - I leave the petcock at the bottom of the tank juuuust cracked opened enough to hear it hissing, and I do the same with one on the separator.. this allows water to drip out instead of following the air line to your tools. Older Ingersoll-Rand upright - as in circa 1990, silly trick, works like a charm. I admit it doesn't get it all if I am running the compressor a lot, but for short stints (say less than 3hrs) I do not get water in the line at the tool. If condensation is a problem where you are, you should always purge your compressor when you're done for the day.. it's amazing how much water will spill out.
 
Buy the bulk roll yourself save a good chunk of $$. Up here a bulk roll of 1/2" runs around $1.30/foot. Already in a coil. Rewrap it around a full(for weight) bleach jug. I bet it fits perfect in 5 gallon pail. Top of with ice(free frozen water)
Great ideas guys, cheap and cool!
Woody'sScamp said:
I am also looking for a cheap way out for painting parts. Would something like this be an option? $65.00 on Amazon. Already made "wort chiller". 1/2 X 25' (9" wide) 5 gallon pal?
View attachment 1715403798
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Would those ratings be the same for "bulk/coiled" copper?
jos51700 said:
FYI type M has the lowest rated working pressures, and it's still way above the 150 PSI setting that most compressors can achieve. I normally try not to take my engineering data off the internet but this is pretty well known. Looks like you're safe with any copper pipe. Except Chinesium.
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I tried that but some still made it past. I drained my tank for the 1st time in a while. I bet there was 2-3 cups in it.
ScampMike said:
really cheap trick I use - I leave the petcock at the bottom of the tank juuuust cracked opened enough to hear it hissing, and I do the same with one on the separator.. this allows water to drip out instead of following the air line to your tools. Older Ingersoll-Rand upright - as in circa 1990, silly trick, works like a charm. I admit it doesn't get it all if I am running the compressor a lot, but for short stints (say less than 3hrs) I do not get water in the line at the tool. If condensation is a problem where you are, you should always purge your compressor when you're done for the day.. it's amazing how much water will spill out.
Click to expand...
 
ScampMike said:
really cheap trick I use - I leave the petcock at the bottom of the tank juuuust cracked opened enough to hear it hissing, and I do the same with one on the separator.. this allows water to drip out instead of following the air line to your tools. Older Ingersoll-Rand upright - as in circa 1990, silly trick, works like a charm. I admit it doesn't get it all if I am running the compressor a lot, but for short stints (say less than 3hrs) I do not get water in the line at the tool. If condensation is a problem where you are, you should always purge your compressor when you're done for the day.. it's amazing how much water will spill out.
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Hi Mike!
My biggest problem is i forget to turn off compressor every day. I drain it every time i think of it,there are auto drains, i should install one. will be investing in some copper soon. When i move my blast cabinet.
 
Tooljunkie said:
Hi Mike!
My biggest problem is i forget to turn off compressor every day. I drain it every time i think of it,there are auto drains, i should install one. will be investing in some copper soon. When i move my blast cabinet.
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ahh.. at the end of the day with the petcocks open the air drains down and the compressor kicks on - it'll "remind" you to shut it off :thumbsup:
 
In a pinch i have run a 20 meter air hose coiled up in a large drum full of water then into a regulator/ water separator and another long air line to paint gun, seem to work ok for what i was doing.
 
my68barracuda said:
Although it would be best to go ahead and put a drain (maybe with a reservoir) in the lowest level.
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That's what I was thinkin. Maybe even bend a "lowest point in that last coil and put a drain "THERE".
 
gzig5 said:
I'm doing the trans cooler and water separator part of this install and if it isn't enough, I'll add the copper on the wall. About $100 for the cooler and filter, plus a little soft copper tube and fittings.

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I just made this mod to my compressor but without the wall piping. What a difference! Air going into trans cooler is about 160* and air coming out is about 85* water separator takes care of almost all the water at that point. Thanks for the info!
 
4spdragtop said:
Heres one I may get. I'll wait for the sale(usually under $100). I bet harbor freight has them cheap.
Air Dryer | Princess Auto
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The dessicant is corrosive, forget to drain it and you have a mess on your hands. Then it gets into everything. I ran one for a while
Then i started having problems, and rethunk my airline routing.
Lines run up from the compressor,if moisture accumulates, it runs back into tank. Which i try to drain on a regular basis.
 
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