after sitting for 5 hours my car went from running great to running terrible

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fordb7976

fordb7976

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its a bone stock 79 318 with a 2bbl carb

i just dont know what happened. the past few days ive been messing with this thing getting it ready to drive around town. i flushed the tank, replaced the fuel pump(the old one leaked) and replaced the filter, topped it off with gas, and it ran perfect. i started it and let it run for at least an hour. i drove it around my field and it did great and shifted fine. this morning i replaced a leaky freeze plug and topped it off with 50/50 antifreeze. i fired it up this morning and it ran like a top. i leave the house in my other rig for 5 hours and come back expecting to cruize around in my new toy and it runs terrible. i drove it up and down the street and it backfires and hesitates. i checked the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, changed the spark controll box(had an extra one lying around). then i tried pulling plug wires one at a time. if i pull the #6 plug wire it goes from almost dying at idle to idling fine. if i pull ALL THE PLUG WIRES on the passenger side, it STILL IDLES FINE. im so confused. can a carb just die in 5 hours? do i have a bad head or bad headgasket?

:prayer: PLEASE HELP ME MOPAR MASTERS :prayer:
 
krazykuda said:
There's no such thing as bad head.... LOL! :D
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Yea i agree with him. Check your compression on each valve and check the heads. I need a little more info tho. did you mess with your distributor? check radiator fluid.
 
krazykuda said:
There's no such thing as bad head.... LOL! :D
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ha! too funny

bad gas is a possibility. i dumped a gallon through it just to flush it before i filled it. but then i put ten gallons in. the tank could've been coated in old gas residue.
 
cap and rotor are fresh. the distributor is still bolted where it was when i got it.

i havent done a compression test yet but i put fresh oil and radiator fluid in and they havent mixed
 
Remove the fuel filter. Get a clean WHITE paper towel and tap the INLET side of the fuel filter on the towel. I bet crap comes out. Sounds like some trash was missed in the system and has gotten to the carburetor.
 
Are you saying it idles fine as a 4 cylinder;running on the drivers side only. And all the plugs are still in it?
Single or dual exhaust?
Sounds like #6 intake is not closing, and pulsing back into the intake. Put a vacuum gauge on it. Running with/without, #6.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Are you saying it idles fine as a 4 cylinder;running on the drivers side only. And all the plugs are still in it?
Single or dual exhaust?
Sounds like #6 intake is not closing, and pulsing back into the intake. Put a vacuum gauge on it. Running with/without, #6.
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single exhaust, looks pretty cobbled together. its an EGR engine also, no vacuum line going to the EGR valve

and yea, it idles great as a 4 cylinder, running on the drivers side only, plugs still in the passenger side just pulled the plug wires.

ill have to try the vacuum gauge and see what it says
 
RustyRatRod said:
Remove the fuel filter. Get a clean WHITE paper towel and tap the INLET side of the fuel filter on the towel. I bet crap comes out. Sounds like some trash was missed in the system and has gotten to the carburetor.
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fuel filter was real bad so i just changed it. no difference in how it runs, but like you said crap could have worked its way pass the filter
 

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thanks to all you guys for the advice.

i havent done a compression test or vacuum test yet but i did get a carb kit.

i still plan on doing a compression test and vacuum test as soon as i get oil pressure back.

i was tuning the carb and it lost all oil pressure, so i pulled the pan and found PINE NEEDLES!!

the oil filter is filled with them too. i already ran a quart of flush through it ounce then drained it, changed the filter and filled it back up. so i guess the pine needles were hiding until now.

not sure what to do now. . . i plan on pulling the oil pump and cleaning it or replacing it. but who knows how many pine needles are left in the block or anywhere else. do you think i could still make this thing a daily driver without a total tear down?

(filter and pan are a little rusty, left em outside overnight #-o )
 

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fordb7976 said:
do you think i could still make this thing a daily driver without a total tear down?
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You are taking a chance if you don't. Tear it down and clean it out right. Quick refresh if possible...

You can get a "refresh" kit in A or B with new main and rod bearings, rings, and a complete gasket kit for $200.

http://www.manciniracing.com/enrebkit.html
 
krazykuda said:
You are taking a chance if you don't. Tear it down and clean it out right. Quick refresh if possible...

You can get a "refresh" kit in A or B with new main and rod bearings, rings, and a complete gasket kit for $200.

http://www.manciniracing.com/enrebkit.html
Click to expand...

there's a local used 318 with A/C and 727 out of a 73 fury that i was looking at buying for 450. but for 200 bucks i might as well pull mine and throw that kit in. more work, but i think it would be worth it.
 
fordb7976 said:
there's a local used 318 with A/C and 727 out of a 73 fury that i was looking at buying for 450. but for 200 bucks i might as well pull mine and throw that kit in. more work, but i think it would be worth it.
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You will have more piece of mind with a fresh engine... :D
 
no I dont think those needles could get into the lifters.
I also cant figure out how the needles got past the oilpump in one piece. That pump should have ground them to powder. The powder could get into the lifters. I would take off the pump next.and that valve cover.
 
AJ/FormS said:
no I dont think those needles could get into the lifters.
I also cant figure out how the needles got past the oilpump in one piece. That pump should have ground them to powder. The powder could get into the lifters. I would take off the pump next.and that valve cover.
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i would have to guess that the guy i bought it from must've had it apart for some reason or another. he sure didn't mention anything to me about it though. i'll take off the pump. and that valve cover, and if i still cant get it to come to life then i might as well rip it out and give it a simple overhaul.

what kind of signs would i want to look for under the valve cover? just check the pushrods and see if they move all over the place or not, and see if there are pine needles up there too?
 
krazykuda said:
You will have more piece of mind with a fresh engine... :D
Click to expand...

if i wasnt such a cheap-o i woulda just pulled it to begin with. id be haulin a$$ and burnin gas by now. at least i know where i can get a kit now. :thumblef:
 
well. got the pine needles out of the engine, got the oil pump cleaned out, and i have good oil pressure again.

ALSO... pulled the valve covers and found a BENT PUSHROD! i replaced the pushrod and now it runs ok again.

i just cant believe i drove 20 miles with a bent pushrod
 

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You didnt mention pick-up. Or galleries, crank passages,other passages, or rocker shafts.
That pushrod is pretty bent. You know theres only one reason for that ,right.And just replacing it is usually not the answer.
 
AJ/FormS said:
You didnt mention pick-up. Or galleries, crank passages,other passages, or rocker shafts.
That pushrod is pretty bent. You know theres only one reason for that ,right.And just replacing it is usually not the answer.
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Yep, tap that valve with a hammer to make sure that the valve opens and is not stuck...
 
yup, and just because its not stuck at the moment, doesn t mean it wont be, shortly after the next start.
and, BTW, he said tap. Unless you know exactly where the valve is.
and,BTW2, that valve and/or that guide, is likely done.
 
i took a 2x4 and put the end on the valve and gave it a few good shoves. the valve moved freely. the rocker arm however was nearly seized on the shaft.

i sanded down the rocker shaft and got the rockers moving good and free again. there were a some pine needles in the rocker assemblies blocking some of the holes that oil the rockers.

i cleaned out both driver side and passenger side rocker shaft assemblies and blew out every hole i could get to with my air compressor while the oil pump was off.
 
Didnt see that comin. You know theres just TWO reasons for that, right? lol. Nice work.
I thought that engine was coming out? You know it has to come out right. Thats the only way youre gonna get the crank journals cleaned out. And the galleries. And the oil supplies to the cam,rocker shafts, etc.Unless youre just gonna run er into the ground for the fun of it.
 
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