AGED-FADED PAINT MATCHING ISSUES

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soonercruiser

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So, I've been trying to match up paint on my new to me 67 Barracuda.
This car may have been repainted at some point. But, it is obvious that the DD1 paint has discolored some, and burnt out the metallic over the years.

In all my Modern MOPARs, I have had excellent luck with "Automotivetouchup.com". Great products!

But, they are not able to modify their colors, and their DD1 turned out too bright and metallic.
So, that became my first basecoat paint in the trunk! :p

Someone here reminded me of O'Relly's, and I did try two attempts there. But,no luck in coming close, even with their camera and some formula gyrating.

I finally ran across an ad for Classic Car paints by "TouchupDirect.com". Great service and communication!
After the first DD1 rattle can, they had me take pictures of their painted test card I did, and sent pictures to them.
I described what I was seeing with the naked eye. We did this 2 times more, and I finally got a color that I am happy with.
They were even going to credit me with the paint that didn't match. But, I'd have none of that since the colors were still very close and I had plenty of unobtrusive areas to paint like the trunk and doorjams.

So, if you are doing some DIY with and older paint job to match, I'd give them a try. "TuchupDirect.com".

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You've left the area of normal skills and moved into an area that is art.... Some guys are amazing at it... Most aren't... And even the guys who are amazing at it sometimes miss... I've seen lots of color scan matches, most suck.. You either find an artist or expect to paint half the car in order to "blend" the paint... Most "Blends" can be spotted from 100 feet...

Looks like you found one of the good guys...
 
It's amazing how silver DD1 looks

My 67 dart is also DD1 and has been repainted a couple times with who knows what color, my dad tried to have DD1 duplicated on the last paint job but the DD1 that the PPG book has is very different.

I had a local paint co mix up some from the book and modify some. The modified version needs more white to match the exterior paint and I have not checked the book color to the inside of the trunk.

Under the hood the paint has turned almost a turquois color.

Would you share the color match you came up with?

Your link did not work for me maybe this one will.


TouchUpDirect | Buy Auto Body Touch Up Paint Online
 
Not sure which areas you want to paint for touch up?

Behind the 4 wheels low to touch up rock chips you will be OK.

Other in your face areas can take some extreme talent to get it to look like it matches.

Paint to match. Panel paint areas with break off points that are not obvious to the eye. Lots of times you have to paint the whole side of the car breaking it off at the top fender ridge.

There is a trick called reverse masking that helps when stoping at a sharp peak, takes practice to get it to lay just right.

Buff up your old area with rubbing compound to get off oxidized top layer of paint and clean it so it shines again, then can blend into that. Blending with base coat then over blending with the clearcoat helps to hide the area of transission of old paint to new and helps to hide the dry overspray edge of the color coat.

Spot painting in the middle of a panel is not a good idea, can look worse than just leaving whatever minor damage is there.

Careful, Careful.....

There was an area here on this '72 Duster where the original paint on the roof had rubbed through to the red oxide base primer, was nasty to look at.

Lightly cleaned the roof with rubbing compound and distilled water to thin it, then wiped it clean. Masked off windshield and back glass and driver's side at roofline.

Got ahold of some mixed to match basecoat from PPG, had to add some silver metallic basecoat to get the color closer.

Then did a dry spot paint over red wore through area blending it ever so carefully into surrounding areas, then washed in the edges with basecoat reducer to help hide the dry overspray edge.

Let that dry with no clear, and gave it an ever so light rub a few days later after it had hardened up more.

There was an adhesion problem that if you put tape on the original paint it would peel it off, so that made it even more challenging to work around.

Ended up with an acceptable spot repair, not perfect but visually pleasing to the eye.

He wanted to save his original good paint job and was not interested In spending 15k for a strip and repaint.

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Had mentioned that this could turn out to be a mess if it did not work, he said go for it "I am tired of looking at the red primer spot".

5 years ago and still holding up well.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
It's amazing how silver DD1 looks

My 67 dart is also DD1 and has been repainted a couple times with who knows what color, my dad tried to have DD1 duplicated on the last paint job but the DD1 that the PPG book has is very different.

I had a local paint co mix up some from the book and modify some. The modified version needs more white to match the exterior paint and I have not checked the book color to the inside of the trunk.

Under the hood the paint has turned almost a turquois color.

Would you share the color match you came up with?

Your link did not work for me maybe this one will.


TouchUpDirect | Buy Auto Body Touch Up Paint Online
Yes, your link worked fine.
Mine was meant to just be the name of the company; not a direct link.

You are correct in that new mixes of DD1 do look very Silver, as compared to aged paint.
That's why even though my custom mix is very close, I will still paint the whole drivers rear fender.
The custom mix seems to be slightly darker base color; but with a very fine/minute metallic as compared to the heavy metallic OEM DD1.

Here is the description of what they are calling the custom DD1 color.
If you do want to contact them, you might drop my name as the buyer of the custom color.

Plymouth Light Blue Poly DD-1 (1967) // Replace with SHOPLINE JBX MET/MICA Prime/ No. 1 / color only
Aerosol Color only
 
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I have only seen now 3 DD1s in the 7 years I have had my Dad's Dart.

We are an elite group
 
Not sure which areas you want to paint for touch up?

Behind the 4 wheels low to touch up rock chips you will be OK.

Other in your face areas can take some extreme talent to get it to look like it matches.

Paint to match. Panel paint areas with break off points that are not obvious to the eye. Lots of times you have to paint the whole side of the car breaking it off at the top fender ridge.

There is a trick called reverse masking that helps when stoping at a sharp peak, takes practice to get it to lay just right.

Buff up your old area with rubbing compound to get off oxidized top layer of paint and clean it so it shines again, then can blend into that. Blending with base coat then over blending with the clearcoat helps to hide the area of transission of old paint to new and helps to hide the dry overspray edge of the color coat.

Spot painting in the middle of a panel is not a good idea, can look worse than just leaving whatever minor damage is there.

Careful, Careful.....

There was an area here on this '72 Duster where the original paint on the roof had rubbed through to the red oxide base primer, was nasty to look at.

Lightly cleaned the roof with rubbing compound and distilled water to thin it, then wiped it clean. Masked off windshield and back glass and driver's side at roofline.

Got ahold of some mixed to match basecoat from PPG, had to add some silver metallic basecoat to get the color closer.

Then did a dry spot paint over red wore through area blending it ever so carefully into surrounding areas, then washed in the edges with basecoat reducer to help hide the dry overspray edge.

Let that dry with no clear, and gave it an ever so light rub a few days later after it had hardened up more.

There was an adhesion problem that if you put tape on the original paint it would peel it off, so that made it even more challenging to work around.

Ended up with an acceptable spot repair, not perfect but visually pleasing to the eye.

He wanted to save his original good paint job and was not interested In spending 15k for a strip and repaint.

View attachment 1716184998

View attachment 1716184999

View attachment 1716185000

Had mentioned that this could turn out to be a mess if it did not work, he said go for it "I am tired of looking at the red primer spot".

5 years ago and still holding up well.

☆☆☆☆☆
Great job!
I am aware of all the problems, and downsides as well.
One of the things that makes me want to challenge this is...... similar to Duster picture, I have 2 thin vinyl pinstripes where the side fenders profile meets the top surfaces.
Since the vinyl is peeling every time I touch it with something like painter's tape, I plan to replace the vinyl with a painted pinstripe when done.
So, that becomes an excellent break point in touchup painting.
I am "committed", since there was a fender repair, as there was some bondo cracking around the fuel cap area.
 
Great job!
I am aware of all the problems, and downsides as well.
One of the things that makes me want to challenge this is...... similar to Duster picture, I have 2 thin vinyl pinstripes where the side fenders profile meets the top surfaces.
Since the vinyl is peeling every time I touch it with something like painter's tape, I plan to replace the vinyl with a painted pinstripe when done.
So, that becomes an excellent break point in touchup painting.
I am "committed", since there was a fender repair, as there was some bondo cracking around the fuel cap area.
My friend with the '72 Duster put his side stripe decal on over his poor adhesion original paint that would lift off with masking tape.

He used small magnets to line up the decal to so it went on straight and level down the side, no paint damage when finished.

Thought that was pretty smart of him.


☆☆☆☆☆
 
My friend with the '72 Duster put his side stripe decal on over his poor adhesion original paint that would lift off with masking tape.

He used small magnets to line up the decal to so it went on straight and level down the side, no paint damage when finished.

Thought that was pretty smart of him.


☆☆☆☆☆
If you use vinyl decals, adhesion promoter is a must.
 
If you use vinyl decals, adhesion promoter is a must.

Self adhesive decals or stripes, is a good idea to use a wax and grease remover if you have been waxing your car.

A good alternative is washing the car with Dawn Dishsoap to help cut the wax and clean up the paint surface before applying decals or stripes.

☆☆☆☆☆
 
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