Lowering the front is a better way to get that "aggressive stance" without sacrificing all of your handling. The ideal handling will still be if the car is set up "flat", but by lowering the front (instead of raising the rear) you'll lower the center of gravity of the car as well, which by itself would improve handling.
Lowering the front does have its issues though. The torsion bars are pretty simple to adjust, by jacking up the front end and loosening the torsion bar adjuster bolts you'll be able to lower the entire front of the car. This does not effect spring rate or the tension on the torsion bars, but will effect the alignment of the car, especially if you lower it more than about 1". Your problems will come from running out of adjustability on the front alignment if you lower too much. This can be dealt with either by getting an "offset" bushing set (you should replace the stockers anyway) or getting new adjustable upper control arms.
Ideally, you'd go with larger torsion bars up front to help reduce the negative effects on handling. Most mopars were undersprung in the front to begin with, lowering the front puts more weight on the front wheels and will add to that effect. Also, mopars were sprung pretty well in the back, so lifting the rear by adding stiffer springs will also reduce handling, since you'll be oversprung in the rear and way undersprung in the front.
My Challenger, while not an a-body, uses the same idea. I have larger torsion bars in the front with 2" drop spindles, with just regular mopar XHD's in the back. So the rear of the car is about the same height as stock, and the rake is picked up by lowering the nose. It handles much better than it did before, as the spring rates are much better balanced than stock, and the lower CG helps keep it down a little in the corners. The Challenger doesn't look super raked in my signature, but its definitely nose down. As you can see the wheels are in about the same place in the wheel wells front to back, and like the A-bodies from the factory the entire front tire was visible, while the rear was not. Its about 2" lower in the front that stock.
Lowering the front does have its issues though. The torsion bars are pretty simple to adjust, by jacking up the front end and loosening the torsion bar adjuster bolts you'll be able to lower the entire front of the car. This does not effect spring rate or the tension on the torsion bars, but will effect the alignment of the car, especially if you lower it more than about 1". Your problems will come from running out of adjustability on the front alignment if you lower too much. This can be dealt with either by getting an "offset" bushing set (you should replace the stockers anyway) or getting new adjustable upper control arms.
Ideally, you'd go with larger torsion bars up front to help reduce the negative effects on handling. Most mopars were undersprung in the front to begin with, lowering the front puts more weight on the front wheels and will add to that effect. Also, mopars were sprung pretty well in the back, so lifting the rear by adding stiffer springs will also reduce handling, since you'll be oversprung in the rear and way undersprung in the front.
My Challenger, while not an a-body, uses the same idea. I have larger torsion bars in the front with 2" drop spindles, with just regular mopar XHD's in the back. So the rear of the car is about the same height as stock, and the rake is picked up by lowering the nose. It handles much better than it did before, as the spring rates are much better balanced than stock, and the lower CG helps keep it down a little in the corners. The Challenger doesn't look super raked in my signature, but its definitely nose down. As you can see the wheels are in about the same place in the wheel wells front to back, and like the A-bodies from the factory the entire front tire was visible, while the rear was not. Its about 2" lower in the front that stock.
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