Air coming through the valve cover

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Why would you drop the good synthetic oil for a low to no zinc diesel engine oil?

I'm not saying to drop it.
I'm saying he has way more oil than he needs, and he's paying hard for it.
And the RotellaT (just an example, one of many, do your own research) with added zinc, is more than adequate for his combo.
Then I added a link to begin the research.

Like I said; I have been adding the zinc additive to sometimes,cheap,on-sale oil, and stuffing it into my 400Plus hp engine since 2004, and the engine seems as strong as ever.
I repeat; do your own research.
I service 6 to 10 cars in my fleet, and full synthetic oil is waaaay out of my price range.Especially so, since I know my recipe works.

and finally; once again;
I am not against his oil. I am against the grade he is using.20W50 is some pretty thick stuff at room temperature, never mind at below-freezing temps. And at 150*F, it takes a lot of energy to jam it through all those little passages everywhere inside the engine. And the faster you spin it, the more energy it takes.Then it takes longer for it to drop back into the oilpan. That's what I am against.
And that is why,partly why, I have a 7qt oilpan on my 367. I know that the SBMs have a history of piling up the front rod bearings when working hard if they don't get enough oil. It is better for them to get lots of thin oil, than not to get enough thick oil.
One time I even ran 5W30 in my little 367.
My 367 has had several oiling mods done to it, and has been happily buzzing up to 7200 since 2000, when I first found out that it could.It has never even smelled synthetic.
 
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Understood. Since this is sort of on topic, is like to discuss the PCV setup. By no means am I an expert. I'm all ears to experience. On some race cars that I race (oval) they are breather only. What's the purpose of a PVC valve on a mild or semi strip street engine ? Not challenging, just educating myself. Once it came a hell of a rain storm while changing oil when I was 17 or so. After, I finished up my oil change. My oil change consisted of a new filter and 10 quarts...I forgot that I stopped before I drained the old oil. yeah I had some blow by all right. Brain fart, young, and in a hurry !
 
The PCV system has two ,no three functions, OK;several functions
1) the primary function is to collect and reburn the gasses that make past the rings.Or at least pass them thru the engine and out the tailpipe. All street engines have blowby; if not on day one, then sooner or later as the rings and cylinders wear. If the crankcase is just ventilated by breathers straight to atmosphere,then these blowby gasses which are laden with oil or oil-vapors that the crank is creating, sooner or later end up on the valve covers or every where else under the hood, making a mess and of course dirt sticks to oil really well.
2)But it doesn't end there. The crankcase HAS to be ventilated somehow. If it's not, the pressure will come out at the weakest point. Since it has to be ventilated,that means it breaths with temperature changes.And that means atmospheric air, which contains moisture, is constantly moving thru the engine. When the engine cools off,it pulls humidified air into it. The moisture combines with the blowby elements to form acids.And you really want to get rid of those.The easiest time to get rid of them, is when the engine is warm.If they are allowed to condense, well,they are acids and acids eat stuff.
In bygone days, engines had road-draft tube systems. In this system the vapors passed thru an oil separator, and the vapors were routed to atmosphere under the car about a foot from the ground. Air passing underneath the car would pull the vapors out, while the crankcase would pump them out.
Well the pollution age frowned on this, and enter the PCV era.
So that is functions one and two.
3)The harder the engine works,and the more worn-out it gets,the more blowby it creates. Sooner or later it overpowers the PCV system. Or rather the PCV system can't keep up.When this happens in a factory system, the excess gasses back up into the fresh air hose and end up between the air filter and the airhorn, where they are drawn directly through the top of the carb.To be reburned, or pass thru the engine a second time, to keep the EPA happy.
4)This is not an actual function, but a necessary part of the system. The PCV is a one way valve. In the event of a backfire in the intake, the PCV slams closed and prevents the flame from getting into the crankcase, where it might be possible to ignite a mini-bomb, IF or WHEN there are raw fuel vapors in there. Not too many years ago, the crankcase was used to store vapors from the carb and fuel tank, before we had carbon canisters.
5)Also not a function, but the modern carb,lol,(from about 69 to 89ish) is calibrated for the PCV to be there. If it's not, then the idle speed screw has to be cranked in to compensate for the air loss. This upsets the T-Port sync, which wreaks havoc with the idle AFR, and tip-in.

OTHER; race cars are not governed by the EPA, so you get to ventilate your CC any way you want. Furthermore as the cam gets bigger, the idle vacuum gets less. Sooner or later the PCV looses effectiveness. In fact a big street cam like the 292/508/108 idles with a pretty low vacuum signal. No matter; as soon as you give it a lil throttle, the vacuum pops up and the system is off and running. I use the PCV system as an idle air bypass, with street cams. If you don't, you have to resort to secondary cracking or drilling thru-holes in the butterflies.Secondary cracking introduces dry air into the intake, and the rear cylinders don't like that. Thru holes are fine, but it makes adjusting the idle speed a PITA. Sometimes a combination is called for.
If you have a racecar, you have headers. With headers you can install CC aspirators, which will pull air from the breathers straight into the headers. These little gizmos work amazingly well. Too well on my street car. They pulled oil right out of the valve covers, which seemed to catch fire in the pipes somewhere and after a hard run, there was smoke pouring out of my tailpipes. Which, as you can imagine spooked me for a bit. I yanked those off shortly afterwards.
What did I miss.
oh yeah. PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Positive cuz it is full-time and forced: compared to a road-draft tube, the earlier system, which was a slacker system,which got to be real messy, as the engine aged.
Bottom-line;PCV equipped engines run cleaner inside, and stay cleaner longer.
 
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Sorry, its a Chevy pic, but here's a correct PCV system....
044.JPG
 
I pulled the plugs this morning and #5 and #8 were dripping with oil I don't think that is a good sign. probably looking at tearing down. thanks for all the information that you guy's take the time to post and help much appreciated will keep you up to what I end up doing.
 
Broken ring, ring not seated, valve guide or valve guide seal. Can't be much more than that right?
 
Ima thinking that would just be an intake gasket, and she's sucking oil from the valley? How well does it idle?
Put a vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube, Pull out the breathers and plug the openings. Start her up.
Vacuum means intake gasket. Pressure means a ring problem.
Or possibly brake fluid from the booster? Check the fluid level.
I would at least check those before tugging her out.
 
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It looks like he is sucking oil through the breather into the base of the carb, since oil is heavier than atomized fuel, it is more than likely being pulled to the rear two ports in that dual plane intake. before pulling anything, I would put a proper pcv system on the motor.
 
I just installed a PCV on my 318 with the same cam. I used the Fram FV191. It works well with the lower vacuum.
 
Ok guy's some more good info for the rookie will report back on progress.
Thanks
 
Ima thinking that would just be an intake gasket, and she's sucking oil from the valley? How well does it idle?
Put a vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube, Pull out the breathers and plug the openings. Start her up.
Vacuum means intake gasket. Pressure means a ring problem.
Or possibly brake fluid from the booster? Check the fluid level.
I would at least check those before tugging her out.

She starts right up and idle's by herself. I'm thinking you may be right about the oil if it was having trouble breathing right to begin with adding a heavier weight just stressed her out a bit more. anyway live and learn I just broke the news to the wife she is not getting anything for Valentines this year. she loves my car!:lol:
 
RE-read post #36, spl440 has a very good point.Just pull off the hose. If it's full of oil; badaboom!
If not, then pull off the vacuum line to the booster. If that is dry, then on to the CC vacuum test.

Don't be in a hurry to tear it open.
 
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