71_dart_swinger
Well-Known Member
Just got my front end aligned after rebuilding front end. Is it possible to get a 71 dart 440 with 18"s to drive straight. ??? Lol. Anyone else with 18s
Just got my front end aligned after rebuilding front end. Is it possible to get a 71 dart 440 with 18"s to drive straight. ??? Lol. Anyone else with 18s
I've had the 18s for a while. Ya. Just leterrally did all bushing inner outer tie rods ball joints strut rod and so on. Literally everything. I'll take your chart to them and have them do it again to these specs. I know it should drive fine. But figured it d ask. Since I had them alighn it right before I rebuilt front end and after it's only a little better and still pulled hard rightHaving 18" wheels shouldn't have anything to do with getting the alignment right. Shouldn't make a lick a difference compared to a 15" wheel.
Now, radial tires vs. bias ply's changes the specifications you should set the alignment to. But even that shouldn't effect actually getting the car to drive straight.
For radials you should be using alignment specs for radial tires, not the factory settings (which are for bias ply tires). You should base your alignment specs off of this chart
View attachment 1715250007
If you haven't replaced your suspension bushings, consider using the Moog K7103 offset UCA bushings to increase the amount of caster you can get because it's hard to get more than a couple degrees with the stock parts.
And yes, I have 18's and had no issues getting my car to drive straight.
View attachment 1715250008
I read your thread about fitting your wheels. I did the same thing with the rods for fenders and barely had to trim the inner lip. So thank youHaving 18" wheels shouldn't have anything to do with getting the alignment right. Shouldn't make a lick a difference compared to a 15" wheel.
Now, radial tires vs. bias ply's changes the specifications you should set the alignment to. But even that shouldn't effect actually getting the car to drive straight.
For radials you should be using alignment specs for radial tires, not the factory settings (which are for bias ply tires). You should base your alignment specs off of this chart
View attachment 1715250007
If you haven't replaced your suspension bushings, consider using the Moog K7103 offset UCA bushings to increase the amount of caster you can get because it's hard to get more than a couple degrees with the stock parts.
And yes, I have 18's and had no issues getting my car to drive straight.
View attachment 1715250008
I've had the 18s for a while. Ya. Just leterrally did all bushing inner outer tie rods ball joints strut rod and so on. Literally everything. I'll take your chart to them and have them do it again to these specs. I know it should drive fine. But figured it d ask. Since I had them alighn it right before I rebuilt front end and after it's only a little better and still pulled hard right
View attachment 1715250016
Am I reading this right? You had it aligned and then replaced all the parts? If so, it really needs to be aligned after the parts swap..I had them alighn it right before I rebuilt front end and after it's only a little better and still pulled hard right
View attachment 1715250016
It was basically aligned twice. Before so o could race real quick. Decided to wait. Rebuilt front end then had It alighnment done againAm I reading this right? You had it aligned and then replaced all the parts? If so, it really needs to be aligned after the parts swap..
I got alignment knowing it needed front end done. Wanted to race my boss. But even after the first time I said nah. I'll just rebuild it first before I try doin anything dum in it. So I did. Now after everything new. It will drive straight somewhat. It pulls to the right pretty good when I let go of wheel. They did set it to factory spec. I do not have the specs they set it to. I'll have them do it to the specs above. I'd again it's wonky I'll have to take it elsewhere. Does have a big block so I know it's not best handling
Having 18" wheels shouldn't have anything to do with getting the alignment right. Shouldn't make a lick a difference compared to a 15" wheel.
Now, radial tires vs. bias ply's changes the specifications you should set the alignment to. But even that shouldn't effect actually getting the car to drive straight.
For radials you should be using alignment specs for radial tires, not the factory settings (which are for bias ply tires). You should base your alignment specs off of this chart
View attachment 1715250007
If you haven't replaced your suspension bushings, consider using the Moog K7103 offset UCA bushings to increase the amount of caster you can get because it's hard to get more than a couple degrees with the stock parts.
And yes, I have 18's and had no issues getting my car to drive straight.
View attachment 1715250008
No not brake dragBrake drag?
Too tight adjustment on the box can do some strange things too. Just seems odd your alignment people would hand you the keys and not justify the pull to the right. Isn't that their job?It's a manual box